CTWG60

Get a block tester kit off ebay for about £30 it's chemical tester that can tell you if you have hydrocarbons in your coolant. Worked a treat for me. Is your temp gauge all over the place and coolant spitting out the expansion bottle when it overheats? That's what was happening when my head gasket blew.

Off topic I suppose. I'm no expert on global warming but as far as I'm concerned and it would appear the planet as an ecosystem is concerned the huge nuclear reaction in sky called the sun might have a little more to do with global warming than a harmless gas that every living thing on the planet expels and ultimately absorbs (it's called the carbon cycle). Anyone that says there is more carbon in the atmosphere and it's causing global warming and it's our fault is deluded and has been misinformed. If you don't believe me that's fine. I always doubted that global warming could be attributed to human activity after studying it for my dissertation at university. And the documentary "The Great Global Warming Scandal" rang true to my ears. It's very weird the way it's become a global concern that flies in the face of common sense and the evidence, as with most things it's politically driven. And when you think about it exactly where do you see the planet suffering? The planet cannot suffer because it's not a conscious entity unlike us! It's like we've regressed to some primitive religion where we believe we can anger the Gods (the atmosphere) by our sins (big cars). The above is just the ramblings of a bored Computer Engineer with a bee in his bonnet please ignore at your leisure. :) P*ssed myself laughing when I watched the documentary about carbon offsetting and it's inconsistencies and failings, especially the bit where Shell Oil IIRC were attempting to collect the methane gas from the sh*t of a large pig farm in mexico IIRC to offset some of the co2 released my burning fossil fuels WTF. :lol: Do I need to put on a flame suit for expressing a controversial opinion?

These cars are for people with more money than sense. It's OK they keep the economy buoyant and they have to spend their money on something to tell you how much of it they've got.

Found This...................bit more info. Record Corrado In the first day's of his career de Corrado had a special endurance test. In august 1988 VW wanted to claim 6 international records because they wanted to expres the power of this new VW sprinter. On the 20.853 km long speedcircuit of the Volkwagen-testtrack in Ehra-Lessien a 220 hp tuned version of the Corrado G60 went into close surveillance of the FIA (federation Internationale de L'Automobile) from start. This Record-Corrado set the 6 speedrecords for cars with 'blown' engines with an engine in the class of 1.5 - 2.0 l. The next times and distances were extablished: 1 hour 262.865 km/h 500 km 261.033 km/h 500 miles 260.701 km/h 1000 km 261.711 km/h 6 hours 257.122 km/h 1000 miles 257.165 km/h To get these average speeds with zero start,fuel stops and driver changes topspeeds of around 270 km/h were needed. The basis was a 160 hp strong serie model of the Corrado G-60 with controled 3-way katalysator. The power-growth of the 1.8L G-60 engine till 220HP with 6400 rpm's was mainly because of modifications of combustion, fuelmixture, valves, rods, G-laderpressure and a double exhaust with 2 lambda controled katalysators. More technical changes were not only because of safetechnical reasons such as safety cage secure fueltank and a fire extinguish installation also a special gearbox adjusted for slicks and the lowered and aeodynamic optimalised bodywork of the Corrado.

I think the extra load of the G60 causes it, it can happen on diesels that don't have a clutch on the alternator IIRC. As for the mechanics of how it causes the bolt to let go I can't really get my head around the forces involved. In the middle of building up a new bottom end and am getting a little worried about this happening to it, what's the best thing to do, DX bolt, new type PG bolt, pin the pulley to the crank or just get a ARP bolt? Where do you get an ARP bolt from? I can't find it listed anywhere! I've bought a DX bolt but I'm worried it's not the best or a substantial solution. As for refacing is this only necessary after failure or advisable on a new build if the crank is out?

:lol: the mouse you have pictured looks like it has a steering wheel in it's hands!

Currently in the process of killing him to death with purple wheat before he decides to multiply if he hasn't all ready. I think he is either living in one of chassis legs or has possibly found a way into the dash and has made a nice little home for himself. Probably the only mouse in the world to take a ride in a Corrado. :)

I don't f'ing know but it's really getting on my nerves................. :|

If your genuinely dyslexic you should you let people know in your signature because your posts are genuinely difficult to understand.

And then you might want to but a dictionary :lol: Maybe CTWG60 should BUY a dictionary :D That was the joke! :brickwall:

.-- .... .- - . ...- . .-.

And you illiterate. :lol: "meens yu carnt reed or right" incase you were unsure of the meaning. Seriously though this sort of sh*t is fine when your texting privately but on a public forum your only contributing to modern day illiteracy.

Ahhh the vaccum system might have water in it. All the different bit's of pipework around the inlet manifold would need to checked including the ISV. Also the FPR might have water in the air pressure side!

And then you might want to but a dictionary :lol:

At first glance I thought you said you had two girlfriends. :lol: Is it too much effort for the texting generation to press the "t" key and then the "o" key instead of just the "2" key come on it's only one more key press and it will be proper English. Same with the "b" come on don't be so lazy! :?

Did you remove the intercooler to see if it's full of water?

It could be anything really. Can you just replace bent rods on their own? I would of thought you'd need a whole set and poss 2x new pistons. Did you get the charger checked out? I would of thought if you bent rods the charger would get some damage trying to compress water. :shock:

I'll check the plugs tonight but last time I checked them they looked a little lean burned but nothing to worry about. I haven't checked the MAP hose but I suppose it would be worth ordering another piece of hose from VW just to be sure. I just hope it's not some weird loom problem that will drive me nuts checking that lot.

Hmmm. As above I think I've ruled out the ISV and it's wiring. I did also clean it out with petrol last night but to be honest it was very clean inside and only really got the petrol dirty because the outside inevitably got cleaned in the process. I blew it out with compressed air before refitting but it made no difference what so ever. Stalled again today still cold when I caught it by surprise moving off at a junction, and also when first started this morning it died instantly was ok 2nd time but still struggled to restore correct idle when cold from high rpm. Oh other evidence BTS and CO pot replaced last year with new VAG items due to engine running rich. It was the CO pot at fault not the BTS.

Idle Stabilisation Checks Not sure about the TB suppose it could be but have now tested the ISV as per the Bentley manual and ECU with a test loom I made from an old wiring loom and a few PC power connectors with the following results. Idle with Blue Temp Sensor connected is 600mA - 620mA fluctuating (at around 800 rpm) and without 444mA stable (at around 500 - 620 rpm). They should be both 460mA + or - 60mA. I accidently found that even with the engine warm I could not start the engine with the Blue Temp Sensor disconnected, which means I would not be able to put the car into open loop mode? Also when looking at checking and adjusting idle that my idle speed should be 800 rpm + or - 50 rpm without the blue temp sensor connected?? When in fact it drops from 800 to between 500 rpm and 600 rpm which it has always done when checking the ignition timing! So now I'm really confused. If I check the timing at 2000+rpm and adjust the idle to 800 rpm with the BTS disconnected and still get the same issue everything points to the ECU as being bad with regards to idle stabilisation. Anyone got a spare I could borrow/buy? I can have it picked up insured and returned to you via courier. Other evidence I can think of is if I stall moving off at a junction (it's always done this) the car fails to start straight away but turns over like it does with the BTS disconnected with no attempt to fire up. Twice last year I returned to the car after parking for less than 3 minutes (not fully warmed up) and it failed to start straight away again like it does with the BTS disconnected. Here are the Bentley pages and a pic of the test loom I made.

Last week whilst queuing in the petrol station (on a slight incline) my car a 90-91 G60 decided, even though it was up to temp to, to drop the revs to somewhere between 0-250rpm. I was stunned for a moment as have never had an idle issue when warm, it's always rock steady at 750rpm. I realised if I stalled and couldn't start on an incline in a very popular petrol station that I wouldn't be very popular and so blipped the throttle to help it out.Thought it could of been because of low fuel and being on a slight incline but I don't think so. Anyway as the next 7 days went by I started to notice it was very rough at idle when started from cold and now even dies after the first start. If you rev it a little after just starting idle drops down to 250ish before recovering it's 1000+rpm cold start idle. It's not been particularly cold here no frosty morning in the last 7 days, although tomorrow should be fun. It has now I think about it dropped the revs after reving/reversing out my drive, on a cold start before and I may be paying a little too much attention after it's petrol station episode, but I think something in the engine bay has been on it's way out for a long time maybe since I bought it. I'm thinking ISV but am looking for some sort of diags procedures for it and other parts before I bend over and touch my toes at the local dealership. £225 inc Vat with a 10% discount for bending over so frequently. Any ideas anyone?

Just bought a DX bolt for a new engine build, I'll order the PG from VAG and get a better bolt then! Considering getting the timing pulley pinned to the crank to help reduce stress on the bolt and key/keyway and as a saftey incase of bolt failure. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1598023

Well why are we all fitting DX bolts when the original is better? Or do VW now supply a different bolt under the same code???? PG is the one that breaks isn't it?? I'm confused!

1940cc? What bore and stroke is that then? Is that with a G60 block PG/1H?

You should find some taller people to fight It isn't that funny but I wasn't expecting it. Jesus I haven't laughed that hard since I put a saltcellar of salt in my mates coffee. Yes he swallowed! :lol: While his brain was still trying to make it taste like normal coffee. Tee Hee!