CTWG60

I'm currently in the middle of an engine build. I looked at EuroSpecSport but wanted to stick with cast pistons due to short journeys and it being a daily car. Any details on what you have chosen?

Carburetors and points ignition thats how! Getting a car to give reliable power back then was like trying to summon the devil, we're talking the late 70's christ even my old 897cc, IIRC, polo was an utter b***ard for breaking down for no apparent reason. I'd only go out with a full tool kit in the boot. :) Thank god I hand-braked it into a tree at the tender age of 18 or I'd still be stuck on the hard shoulder. You live and learn and then live some more, hopefully.

What like this? Gearbox:- Quaife 6 Speed CTN Diff Tyre:- Michelin all patterns 205/50 x 15 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Top Gear gives 26.705 MPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 165.569 MPH at 6200 RPM Engine speeds in top gear:- 30 MPH = 1123 RPM 40 MPH = 1498 RPM 50 MPH = 1872 RPM 60 MPH = 2247 RPM 70 MPH = 2621 RPM 80 MPH = 2996 RPM 90 MPH = 3370 RPM 100 MPH = 3745 RPM Top Speed in 1 gear = 48.572 MPH And changes into 2 gear at 4386 RPM dropping 1814 RPM Top Speed in 2 gear = 68.665 MPH And changes into 3 gear at 4821 RPM dropping 1379 RPM Top Speed in 3 gear = 88.303 MPH And changes into 4 gear at 4960 RPM dropping 1240 RPM Top Speed in 4 gear = 110.379 MPH And changes into 5 gear at 4939 RPM dropping 1261 RPM Top Speed in 5 gear = 138.551 MPH And changes into 6 gear at 5188 RPM dropping 1012 RPM Top Speed in 6 gear = 165.569 MPH ******************************************************************************************

With your car I feel a 5th gear swap would be a case of "pi**ing in the wind" :lol:

I can see diesel 5th gear swaps becoming the order of the day if fuel prices continue like this.

Nope, they are like the proverbial "rocking horse dodo" here and I've just been reading how good they flow as well on rabbit scientific. http://scientificrabbit.com/index.php?o ... 3&Itemid=1 Only downside is the work to the head, looks a little tight. How's the build coming?

:brickwall:

Just take a look at the graphs and do a bit of homework. I think you're putting zero mental effort into figuring this out for yourself and at the end of the day, it's your decision. I don't think anyone is going to convince you that a decision you have already made is the wrong one. Very peaky torque that can occur in alot of turbo engines would not suit this box.

Yep we have definitely been here before............. :roll: EDIT: Mate you have 344lb/ft in a car that weighs a little over a tonne, they are not to tall!!!!!!!

We've been here before haven't we?

Very impressive, Sorry to be a geek but is that at flywheel or at the wheel? Vortex or Rotrex?

Why would you go to all the bother of swapping VR ratios into your current box when a CTN box will give near identical 1,2 & 3 and stretched out 4 and 5 and give you more mph on long drives?????????????????????????????????????? :cuckoo: SamG60 then had some problems with that box IIRC and fitted a CTN one!!! :?

Yeah you won't find too many people that haven't already been commited doing this sort of thing. :lol: :lol: :offtopic1: Just noticed your signature so what the new car putting out? Well you could get yourself a new pair if you get that bloody flywheel off for me!!!! :lol:

I do, it's called the 1.8T!!!! :lol: I went out in it too, and I'd not even half consider a 1.8t after experiencing this... What I meant was most people would start with a 1.8T rather than a G60 engine because of the crossflow 20v head, larger throttle body and the fact that it is a turbocharged engine to start with and cheaper to get more power out of it. A 1.8T on it's own, of course, would not come close to this! You probably won't find too many engines putting this much power through a short ratio G60 box either which probably accounts for some of the brutality. :lol:

I do, it's called the 1.8T!!!! :lol:

If your current clutch is good and not slipping then I'd leave it but then for £80ish you can be sure you won't have to revisit it for a long time and you can be sure your not going to get clutch slip instead of wheelspin. As for acceleration you'll probably get more traction in 1 and 2 but it won't feel quicker IMHO 3rd is taller so your car will feel slower 4th is somewhere between your current 4th and 5th so again it will be slower 5th is much taller and will as you say only be for higher speed cruising and not for acceleration below 45ish. Give it a try, it's really the only way to see if it suits you and your driving style. If you don't like it I'm sure someone on here will take the CTN box off of your hands.

VR6 clutch will work with Diesel gearbox but Diesel gearbox will not work with VR6 engine and VR6 Clutch IIRC. The ABV engine code VR clutch is the correctly splined one for the CTN Gearbox. You'll hit 135mph in 4th gear on private roads but I don't think you'll be able to do much in 5th above this, you may not even be able to maintain this speed in 5th but then you would not be able maintain your license either. :lol: I personally would only fit a CTN box to a standard car if I was going to make changes to the engine at a later stage.

This is why I have made a conscious effort to never get into motorbikes. I've only ever been on the back of one when I was a kid in the 70's with my irresponsible cousin who negelect to inform me he was about to subject me to about 2G or whatever it was and to hold on tight. Fortunately I did manage to stay on but from that day I pretty much decided motorcylces were not for me.

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No dropping, going to leave it factory as there are so few cars running factory anything anymore. I suppose the issue is that as far as I can tell no-one has put factory suspension back on to see how it does, would be nice to get the comparison. The only things I will consider are a CNC standard size 8v head, a port to the TB, a light gasket port to the exhaust manifold and a port, but no pulley, on the charger. All stuff that is completely un-noticable from the outside but that will give the engine a bit more breathing room. I can give you feed back on standard VAG suspension. First job when I bought mine was standard brakes and suspension replacement from VW. Which included discs, calipers, drop links, wishbones, struts, topmounts, bumpstops. Springs were not changed and pads were gsf-pagid. The difference was night and day with a bbs 15" wheel refurb and a set of eagle F1s the car handles very well and is better than a lot of newer cars I have driven over undulating rough roads ( I live near a strech of farm land called "The Moss" and the roads tend to get very uneven). When I bought my car the intention was to keep it stock but I have found myself sticking bits on to make it go faster, oh and then a gearbox to cope with with additional power. So my engine bay is no longer stock. I have to say though it goes round corners in 2nd gear with plenty of traction and I can even get a bit of sideways drift if I really throw it into a corner. I think alot of people buy old corrados and the first thing thats done is big wheels and lower suspension but they will never know how good they are stock. It was one of the reasons I bought a corrado G60 and was party why I wanted to do the suspension first. It's a daily car as well so I don't want to compromise on the ride as for high speed stability it's just amazing but a working rear wing is a must I have to say. I have since replaced the brake bias as my car tried to kill me backwards and the rear beam bushes have been replaced, again VW stuff. The g60 front calipers were replaced a couple of months ago with S2 twin pots, this was also due to the extra power, but you have to look close to notice them.

I did't know Fairies had tails and what so good about the end of them :mrgreen:

Well that's Formula one through and through isn't it :|