CTWG60

Looks ok to me. :shrug: Has been a while though, just cross check the exploded diagram with your box!

I'd Just fit it as it is, ceramic coating used manifold has no guarantees. I think it would only be surface rust and not structural. Wrapping is expensive aswell and a pain to do again no real performance increase or benefit. If your having doubts now though maybe you should look at some other avenues to increase performance.

I think any performance increase by deleting the boost return is minimal. :D I can't back that statement up, it's just what I think. Rob buy some cheap air temp monitors and plumb them up to find out how hot the returned boosted air is compared to ambient air. I reckon sufficiently cooled boost only gets cooler as it is recycled. I've jumped out my car and popped the bonnet on a number of occasions and TB is very cold to the touch and the inlet is also nice and cool as is the charger so... :shrug:

So weird, I was researching this earlier today before I saw your post. How strange!! :scratch:

Someone has done this you'll have to do some digging. As far as I'm aware LPG burns cooler or something and you can run more advance. I guess the most difficult thing with digi is having it switch from petrol to gas. Been thinking about this myself actually by binning the spare wheel for the space. Actually not sure if it was a G60 or not!

Just out of interest what will you go for next if it passes? :roll: PG block with new standard pistons, standard crank, my spare standard head and the standard ECU chip I have kicking about + a for sale advert... ;) :lol: Seriously though, at that point, if I've not found anything wrong with the bottom end when I rotate the pistons, I think it's probably gonna be a thicker single piece metal headgasket to drop the CR slightly and eliminate any chance of it blowing through the layers of a standard G60 head gasket... :? Well at least you have plan. Don't buy any long pieces of rope though! :D

Just out of interest what will you go for next if it passes? :roll:

I'd get it pressure tested first, impluse do a good job see my sig for a link only about £20 iirc. I don't think they are far from you. They can check the face for warping aswell etc.

The CHA looks like wheel spin city good for the track maybe. yep CTN flanges and clutch size is fine. Also I think the CHA is an 020 box so no good for Corrados anyway, have to check that though. EVERYONE PLEASE NOTE THE CYP BOX IS ALMOST IDENTICAL IN RATIOS AND A GOOD ALTERNATIVE TO THE CTN IF IT"S DIFFICULT TO FIND. Ooops CAPS! Gearbox:- 1.9L diesel CYP Tyre:- Michelin all patterns 205/50 x 15 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Top Gear gives 28.730 MPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 178.127 MPH at 6200 RPM Engine speeds in top gear:- 30 MPH = 1044 RPM 40 MPH = 1392 RPM 50 MPH = 1740 RPM 60 MPH = 2088 RPM 70 MPH = 2436 RPM 80 MPH = 2785 RPM 90 MPH = 3133 RPM 100 MPH = 3481 RPM Top Speed in 1 gear = 35.061 MPH And changes into 2 gear at 3385 RPM dropping 2815 RPM Top Speed in 2 gear = 64.221 MPH And changes into 3 gear at 4052 RPM dropping 2148 RPM Top Speed in 3 gear = 98.275 MPH And changes into 4 gear at 4447 RPM dropping 1753 RPM Top Speed in 4 gear = 137.018 MPH And changes into 5 gear at 4769 RPM dropping 1431 RPM Top Speed in 5 gear = 178.127 MPH ****************************************************************************************** Gearbox:- CTN 1.9L D Tyre:- Michelin all patterns 205/50 x 15 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Top Gear gives 28.274 MPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 175.298 MPH at 6200 RPM Engine speeds in top gear:- 30 MPH = 1061 RPM 40 MPH = 1415 RPM 50 MPH = 1768 RPM 60 MPH = 2122 RPM 70 MPH = 2476 RPM 80 MPH = 2829 RPM 90 MPH = 3183 RPM 100 MPH = 3537 RPM Top Speed in 1 gear = 35.061 MPH And changes into 2 gear at 3475 RPM dropping 2725 RPM Top Speed in 2 gear = 62.550 MPH And changes into 3 gear at 3982 RPM dropping 2218 RPM Top Speed in 3 gear = 97.393 MPH And changes into 4 gear at 4428 RPM dropping 1772 RPM Top Speed in 4 gear = 136.355 MPH And changes into 5 gear at 4823 RPM dropping 1377 RPM Top Speed in 5 gear = 175.298 MPH ******************************************************************************************

Carrier and balance weight!

Pistons have an arrow on top of each one which at to be inserted pointed at belt side of block Will i need bigger rings if just honing the cylinders?? Dont forget me lads :wave: No standard replacement rings.

Cock! Missed it! :( repeated anywhere?

The only 90 mm crank I know of is a eurospec sport crank. I have a book that mentions a realistic stroker crank (it's an american book) and it mentions a 90.50mm crank. VW never did a 90mm crank! It did not come out of a standard passat!! :D I'm sure of that! The eurospecsport crank has a different rod journal diameter though. Only other 90mm VW crank is the VR6 one and it ain't that! So I'd say if your crank looks very lovley and sporty it's probably aftermarket unless it's some sort of modified early pre mk1 golf crank or something. Oh hang on this book when talking about 1.6 and 1.7 litre engines in a section about differences among crankshafts talks about using the 90.5mm cast crank and 136 mm connecting rods that you will have to clearance the underside of the pistons to allow the counter weights to swing by so I think there are aftermarket cranks for 1.6 and 1.7 litre engines. It mentions that the rod journals on the 1.6 and 1.7 are smaller at 46mm. Also mentions a 91 mm crank!!! :scratch: Yeah has to be aftermarket! Check you rod journal diameter when you turn your pistons around! :)

Well anything is worth a try to get it sorted. I think these psitons do have enough meat to them but my concern as I've said is the quench zone and the pistons orientation. Here is the source of identification of those pistons. EDIT: I've put these through a compression height calculation and they should have a deck height of just under 1mm (0.95mm) below the block surface.

The blocks were not pg engines but were VAG engines, they weren't out of spec by much but I would imagine VAG engines being generally more undersquare type engines ie. more stoke dimension than bore, then more sidewall pressures will be experienced I know that VR engines suffer a lot of sidewall issues due to the design but yeah. Also most vag engines have very low rod to crank ratios so again your going to get more piston wobble/wear than on a honda for example. I do have a pg in the garage at the moment all stripped down but I haven't checked the pistons yet as it wasn't going to remain standard! :wink: But money, time and a lack of enthusiasm are my enemy lately, I have no idea now many miles it has done!! The worst of them was the 2.0L 3A Audi block which had done about 130k, I guess if pg pistons don't experience quite as much wear it must be down to the rather longish total height of the piston spreading the load and keeping the piston more square in the bore and the shorter crank of 86.4mm, I doubt the rod ratio helps but it is more than than a 144mm rod 2.0L engine. As for your engine that shot you've taken it's rather telling if you look at cylinder number one at TDC you can see that toward the rear right of the crown quench area about 2 o'clock you have a white deposit and also to the front right about 5 o'clock. As apposed to the left side which is mucher darker. So I would say you have a lot of combustion occurring in areas were no combustion should be taking place! ie. In the quench or squish zone! Or at least the piston is suffering higher temperatures in this area, isn't your problem not overheating but losing cylinder 1 & 2 after some minutes of normal running. From what I can see of the other pistons they seem to be fairing a lot better but I'd say number one is suffering lean or hotter conditions which they always do anyway but rotating the pistons 180? would see slower combustion flame travel and lower combustion temperatures and also maybe better mpg due to more efficient burning of the fuel air mixture in my opinion. What have you got to lose it's been sat for 2 years undiagnosed after having 3 head gaskets or else your looking at scrapping the block due to the helicoil not working for you! I'm probaly wrong but I think it's worth a shot. Do you have ARP rod bolts? You wouldn't have to replace them if you did rotate the pistons, could be done in situ with the sump removed. Please bare in mind I am a hobbyist and am no expert I just read alot of books and have an unhealthy interest in what goes on in a internal combustion engine during use. I will say though that VAG always situate a raised area of piston crown (compression lump) opposite to the spark plug, it's sole purpose is to push the F/A mixture toward the spark plug the only exception to this I have come across is the cross flow 8v 2.0 engine fitted to the mk4 golf/Beetle, they had compression lumps on both front and rear possibly due to the cross flow head having the intake situated at the front of the engine and the change in airflow dynamics and squish experienced in the cylinder causing hotter or just combustion at the front of the cylinder in the quench zone. I will also say that these pistons are from an N/A 1.4 engine with very square characteristics and they seem to have very little in the way of quench zone toward the rear of the cylinder when compared to a PG piston which seems to be designed to make sure that all combustion occurs in the centre of the piston, possibly another reason for the longish piston design, or at least compression height of these pistons and thus the shorter rod ratio to accommodate such a piston. OK this is turning into a essay. So basically you have a high compression engine with less quench zone and pistons that are pushing the mixture to the area that is weakest in terms of keeping the walls and head gasket protected from combustion. So please don't take offense, I understand the years of investment in this project but I think you could have a relatively simple and cheap fix for this problem, if I'm right! WAY OFF TOPIC! HA! :lol: EDIT: Wow I just took a closer look at the quench area and without being negative you have about 2mm of quench area between the piston combustion dish valve recess at the side of each cylinder and the head gasket! Eeek! That's gotta hurt the head gasket surely!

Sorry to inform you of this Henny but pistons do wear. I've stripped a couple of 100k+ blocks in my time and when I've measured the pistons with digital calipers and compared them to the wear limits they have been out of specification, meaning the pistons have been subject to side wall wear. I'm sure many people wouldn't worry but it depends on how long you want the rebuild to last. This is why many new pistons come with areas of molly coating to the front and rear of the pistons to reduce friction and thus wear! As I say speak to a professional and be sure before going to the trouble and expense of rebuilding it. Talking of pistons being installed backwards. I remember seeing a picture of your engine when you were replacing the head gasket the first time round and your pistons appear to be from a cross flow SEAT engine were the spark plug is located to the rear of the engine rather than the front as in a G60 engine, so effectivly you seem to have more squish area to the front of the engine which will be pushing the mixture away from the spark plug which is not ideal. Maybe this is the root of your headgasket issues!! :shrug: Ahhh... Here we go...a theory that might be worth looking into! :D viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1727&hilit=jdub&start=150

Hmmm sounds like your gonna have to make some repairs. but you can still buy these from the dealer i would think and they aren't ridiculously expensive. Worth asking if it is weakened or breaks.

Well if the pistons are within spec and your re-ringing them, although not ideal with just honing the bores you should be able to get away with it. I'd check with a professional though it's a lot of effort if it ain't right. Personally I'd just get some new pistons and bore the block. Replacement OE MAHLE pistons cost about £350 but come with new rings pins and pin clips. Pistons that have done over 100K will be worn and probably be out of specification.

Sorry to be clear is the piston fowling the the square base of the squirter or the small bent tube of the squirter? If it's the tube can you not just adjust it's position? :shrug:

That's not very good is it?!? I'd send them back and complain. If you can't send them back then you'll have to run without oil squiters or modify the pistons to clear and then if your bothered have them rebalanced. bummer I'd be pi55ed! How far off are they in millimeters?

If I'm honest with you sound like a recipe for disaster or at least a short engine life. If you want to just hone the bores re-ring the pistons and do the bearing shells I have an engine in store down near Devon. £50 and it's yours, I've never seen the engine and bought it unseen but have just never got round to collecting it. You'd have to collect it though! Failing that save up and get some new lager pistons and have the engine rebored. hth Oh your in Ireland!! Never mind! :lol:

If I'm honest with you sound like a recipe for disaster or at least a short engine life. If you want to just hone the bores re-ring the pistons and do the bearing shells I have an engine in store down near Devon. £50 and it's yours, I've never seen the engine and bought it unseen but have just never got round to collecting it. You'd have to collect it though! Failing that save up and get some new lager pistons and have the engine rebored. hth

Listen to this man he is talking alot of sense. Forget it, walk away, move on with your life! It's just not worth it! Believe me! Corrados where never meant to have working sunroofs it's a known fact! :D

And people are giving them away!! :wink: LITERALLY!!!!

My money is on higher oil temps especially in frisky pedal action high speed stop start situations like the dual carriage-way drag race. I didn't want to do a mocal oil cooler as I wanted to retain VAG parts under the bonnet and if you want to keep your watercooler you need to use a shorter oil filter. :nono: So I plumbed for a mk1 oil take off as mentioned before.