andygal

yupp ma bad....its a 94 vr6!! kl al give them a call in the morning

hey, i decdied to take of my old K&N induction kit and put the standard airbox on tonight. Took it out a run after doing so and after about 10mins the car stalled and when i tried 2 start it, it was squeeling!!! It sounded like it was coming from the throttle body and upon inspection, it 3bolts were slack and the other missing!!! Has it just been a case of them not being tightened properly??? Also does anyone know the size of bolt or should i just order one from VW?? Car is a bit too quiet for my liking with the standard box :( thinking of either drilling it or investing in a RAM air filter???? Cheers, Andy

im ordering a chain kit, clutch and few other bits from 4seasons if anyone else wants to order stuff and split postage Andy

sounds like the igniion live cannot provide enough power when you crank the volume up and the stereo starts to need more power so cuts out because of this!!

if the black wire on your new loom is next to your earth wire then it is your illumination wire. Lives are the one below the earth and the 3rd one along in the same row as the earth Andy

is the black wire next to the earth (brown in ur pic) if so, its the illumination wire (usually orange). You dont need to bother with this...its there so that you can hook it up so when you adjust the brightness of the dash, the cd player brightness changes as well Andy

not 100% sure but looks like the 16v is opening the second you start the car then closing right away where as the G60 is staying opened...you wil probably find that as the engine warms up, the valve will close (voltage drops off). Looks like the ISV is getting the wrong signal...is it lumpy on idle or what?? Possibly a coolant temp sensor giving the ecu the wrong reading so it thinks its up to temp and closes?? Andy

1994 VR6. got a coilpack - you think there wil be water in there and would that cause this?? Andy

Hey, cleaned my engine bay with some gunk and water from the hose yesterday and ever since iv had running problems. First was the car was misfiring. This was put down to a wet HT lead causing misfiring so as i had a new set i put them on and it cured it. The engine was dried with compressed air and the connectors given a spray with WD. Now, when cold, the car shudders when accelerating until it gets warm. Also for the first few minutes, it stalls when the revs get below 1500K Any ideas whats wrong?? no errors with vagcom and temp sensors are brand new!! Cheers, Andy

speed sensor for get about...due to the fact the engine was not runnig. the other one sounds like your ISV. Expensive new (about £180???) but can pick them up 2nd hand fairly easily! Cheers, Andy

well today i sorted my ABS, needed a new sensor. Fixed my wing mirrors (never worked and glass was knackered), stripped my drivers door as it rattled so put that together after sorting the rattles, and got parts which i will be fitting tomorrow inc ARB bushes, ball joints, top mount bushes n bearings, HT leads, coolant bottle, all filters, new gearbox mount, gearbox oil, temp sensor and other bits and bobs. After that lots done and i get my new wing it'l be into the paint shop for a respray as it was keyed right down the side :( and once all thats done, il be giving her a machine polish and sticking her up for sale!!! Cheers, Andy

right new sensor in and the earth wire taken off and it idle'd at 2000RPM. Attached the earth wire and it was perfect.....for 5minutes. As soon as i took it out a run it ended up idling at 1600RPM again!!! Any ideas?? Cheers, Andy

Hey my VR6 1994 is a little lumpy when cold. After scanning it woth vagcom, its reading a short to earth on the blue temp sensor. Having looked at the sensor, the brown and green wire has been spliced into and a feed taken to the -ve on the battery. I have no idea why this has been done tho. Anyone got any ideas whats happened or how to fix it?? Cheers, Andy

sorted. new sensor on and ABS is working again :) Cheers for the help Andy

was done at the hub so gotta be the sensor then. Cheers, Andy

Hy ABS light had been coming on and off for a while but for the last month it has been on pernamently. I have checked the resistances of the sensors and this is what i got R NS 1.026 R OS 1.017 F NS 1.014 F OS Nothing, meter didnt move when i put it on the sensor Is it this sensor thats causing the problem then?? Cheers, Andy

thanks for all the advice. I have taken it over to my local VW specialist Bedrook in Motherwell and have been told the "rattle" is normal. It is only very very slight and seeminly it is just the chains rubbing off the tensioner or guide but is 100% normal on the VR6 so thats a relief. Have just ordered new expansion tank, filters, coolant, HT leads, top mounts, ARB bushes, ball joints, track rod ends, gearbox oil, gearbox mount and other bits and bobs to give it a major service then, once i find a wing she will be going into get painted and then a full machine polish then will be up for sale probs around the end of Feb!!! Will be sad to sell it but since im at Uni now and only do maybe 10miles a day it isnt worth keeping it as i am not getting the use from it :( Cheers for the advice again, Andy

if you can get a hold of one from Halfords (which i doubt as thee now obsolete but maybe worth ago) you can get the 910 for £150 or the 710 for £130!!!! Cheers, Andy

cheers for the replies. The paintwork has already been touched up so it wont rust. Right then. Wheres the best place to get the chains done around Scotland preferably Glasgow area?? How hard would it to be to do it myself?? I have done things like wishbones, rear beam bushes etc but nothing more advanced. Also, what parts will i need?? Top chain, guide and bolt, lower tensioner guide and chain and what else?? How much should i pay for the parts inc fitting?? Also where would be the best place to get the bits if i was to DIY?? Cheers, Andy

Right, i have a 1994 Corrado VR6 with 118k miles and FSH. Everything on the car works fine, spoiler, sunroof etc. The only faults with the car are: The timing chains rattle so need replaced The passanger wing has rust on it and the drivers side has been keyed badly Im going to sort one of the above and then sell the car as i can not afford to keep running it. What should i sort? the body or engine?? What would people prefer from a VR6, a decent body but rattly chains or a solid engine but slightly tatty body?? Cheers, Andy

ye you will need the bush too. Not too hard to change. Done a mates in about an hour (both sides). Cant remember exactly what i dont but arb disconected from wishbone, buzz gun to undow strut top mount bolt then drop the whole lot down enough to get in to the top of the shocker and you can undoo the bush and change that and the bearing. A bit fiddly to do in place but can be done!! Andy

take it thats a no lol. when i plug the plug back into the isv, the idle shoots up again and the voltage increases from next to nothing to 6v so therefore the valve opens so it appears to be working ok. looks like its the signal that is going to the ecu which then sends the according voltage to the isv that is fault? Cheers, Andy

hey you still doing these?? Drivers handle went pop yesterday, stripped it down today and its that bit thats away!! Cheers, Andy

ok anyone in Glasgow with a VR6 fancy helping me out by letting me try their ISV for 10mins or so ??? Cheers, Andy

no no buzzingthat i was aware off Cheers, Andy