Henny

which engine?

I loose track of who's who on here recently... :oops: Though with a personal post count approaching 9,000, and a total number of over 173,000 posts on the forum (all of which I've read! :crazyeyes: ) that's hardly suprising! :lol: Anyway, if your car is taking ages to warm up, it could be the warm up regulator as aide says... When it's up to temp, what does the water temp read on the gauge? Does it take AGES for the temp to get over 80 (water temp) and cool down really quickly after being stuck in traffic once you're moving again? If it does, then you may be looking at a stuck thermostat... :|

yeah, No.(6) is the correct part, it's shown on the diagram as No.6 (without brackets!) which is for engines WITHOUT the oil cooler... ;) Think this is probably where the confusion's come from... ETKA's a bit like that at times... 8)

for some reason I thought you had a G60... And, yes, I know it even says it in your sig what engine you have, it's just been one of those days today... :roll: :oops: :lol:

eep! just noticed what engine you've got Neverite, :oops: aide's right, the blue connector you're on about ISN'T the same as the blue temp sensor on the G60s/VR6... Is it the one in the pic below you're on about?

um? piccy? what piccy? :roll: ;) :lol:

:lol: Yeah, should be good, but I get the feeling my hearing's gonna be shot for a fair few days afterwards! ;) Thanks for pointing these out... I was just gonna go to GPC and buy another original one... :)

Nice to hear that people out there aren't afraid of actually driving their Corrados rather than just using 'em for transport or storing 'em in garages... 8)

duplicate thread deleted... 8)

big wheels doesn't mean that the rolling circumference is larger! ;) 205 40 16 tyres have an almost identical rolling circumference to 195 50 15 tyres even though the wheel is an extra inch in diameter... That's why tyre choice is so important when changing to larger rims... ;) 8) Larger wheels will also (generally, unless you spend silly money on 'em) weigh more than smaller ones, which is why you won't be able to get the car to go as fast... ;)

ECP and GSF also sell these for about 70% of what VW sell 'em for... It's worth changing both black and blue senders at the same time (at least that way you know your temp gauge isn't lying to you! :lol: ) and the grand total is about £30 including the 2 O-ring seals you'll need... 8)

added to what Dennis says, you then also get a less reliable and generally naffer set of controls for all that hassle... Stick with slides, you know it makes sense! :lol:

red is VERY uniform... it's actually rather nice and has grown on me lots on my drive home in the dark last night... unfortunatly no photos today 'cos the camera batteries were dead... :oops: I'll get some on Weds night (Off to see Judas Priest tonight 8) ) and post 'em up thursday... 8)

Tom? Lay off the drugs mate... :lol: Most boot lids need BOTH of the struts to hold it open/assist the opening... The odds are that they've been on their way out for a while and have finally got to the point that they're not strong enough to hold the lid open anymore...

yup, not knocking your way at all... it's probably a better way to do it to be honest... 8)

I've also edited your pic a little to make it more accurate. 8) If they can't find the correct part from these pics, they need sacking... ;)

yup, with Dennis all the way here... Relays are the best way, and using a GENUINE VW switch will help too... The plastic in the GSF / ECP ones is crap compared with the genuine ones, so they'll over heat faster and burn out WAY quicker than a genuine one... :roll: My new corrado has remote start on the alarm and that's wired into the ignition switch... This means that the switch no longer controls the starter motor (or ignition! :| ) as such, but instead it now controls the remote start module, so there's practically no load on the switch... It still works the same as standard though... 8) I only found this out this weekend when I found out how badly the alarm modules had been fitted... the wiring's spot on (nicely soldered and taped up well) but the modules just aren't attached to anything... well, at least, they WEREN'T attached... ;) :lol:

didn't get chance to look for it... sorry... :| Anyone else got Etka handy?

that's why I only put a link up to the website... ;)

am on course for somewhere around 20 to 25K miles this year if I keep going at the rate I am so far... :crazyeyes:

seat release handles ARE available from VW... (got new ones on my car.... ;) )

'lo and welcome to The Forum... 8)

try Awesome GTI ( http://www.awesomegti.com ) they're not cheap, but they know their stuff... 8)

There are little white plastic bits on the legs of the seats which sit in the runners on the chassis and allow the chair to slide forwards and backwards. These can fall off and are designed to wear out (rather than wearing the seat subframe!). They're available from GSF and ECP for a couple of quid. You'll need to take the seat out to fit 'em though... There's 2 per seat and then a different one on the front seat mount which will make the chair rock forwards and backwards if it's gone... ;)

*beep* Kev's on holiday for a week... leave a message before the beep and he'll get back to you when he returns... ;) :lol: Alternatively: Camber won't be affected unless it's an ajustable brace and you tighten it up a stupid amount and pull the strut tops closer together! ;) :lol: Differences? It'll tighten up the front suspension meaning that it'll feel slightly more positive going into corners and will eliminate any "scuttle shake" that you may have Fitting? Depends on the design of the brace... some of 'em are as simple as undo the 2 strut top mounting bolts per side, put the brace in place, replace bolts... 8) Others need some more holes drilling and M8 nuts and bolts putting through to hold it tight... I've not fitted one to a MKII, but the 2 I've fitted to MKIs have both been of this design and can be fitted in about 30 mins... 8) Good luck! 8)