Henny
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Everything posted by Henny
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dinkus, I've never fried one, so I've never had to fix one yet (thankfully!) 8) The Blue/white wire lives behind the head unit... you may not have fried the control unit if it's been wired in, so it's best to check the wire is connected and disconnect it to see if that helps before worrying about how to fix the controller... ;)
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Cool.... Good to know that... 8)
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the Golf G60 has the larger synchro tunnel... I have no idea if this will affect the exhaust fitment, but I just thought you should be aware that there's a bit more room under a Golf G60 than a valver... :|
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good luck! 8)
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solid front JMR mount is about £70 inc delivery, rears are £10.95 for the gearbox and £68 for the rear engine from Euro... 8)
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yup, with you all the way there Jay... 8)
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if you replace the rear axle bushes with poly ones, you loose the passive rear wheel steering effect the original ones give... Personally, I'd fit genuine VAG rear axle bushes... the ones that are in there have already lasted 10 years+ so the new ones aren't gonna need changing all that quickly! ;) :lol:
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rolex, no. that won't work for the front wheels... It's dead simple to change the rears to 5 stud, but the fronts is a whole hell of a lot more work...
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check your engine mounts too... ;)
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you have a completely different design of inlet manifold... :|
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all earths in VW cars are brown... 8)
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yup, also done clutches on Corrados and Golf MKIIs on my own... Never had to remove the flanges before either... :| Always had to pop the passenger side ball joint to move the driveshaft out of the way though... :roll:
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get hold of a K&N cleaning kit... they come with instructions and all the stuff you need to sort it out properly without damaging your filter... 8)
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Battery light and voltage regulator query - wee UPDATE
Henny replied to Rossco's topic in Engine Bay
yup, but it could also be the wires I mentioned... ;) Check the wires first (it won't cost you anything! ;) ) then change the regulator/brushes if you think the wiring's in good condition.... 8) -
A dodgy earth or loose plug onto the clocks would expain all of your problems... ;)
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So, you have fuel, spark and compression... the only things that can be wrong are that you either have not enough air getting in (blocked air flap or flooding?) or the timing's wrong.... erm.... did you remember to put the tappets back in?!? :? ;)
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What does the engine do? Have you got the plug leads on in the correct order? Does it turn over OK on the starter? Is there a spark at all? (remove a plug and put it into the plug lead with it resting on the inlet manifold, turn over the engine on the starter watching for a spark) Have you set the timing on the distributor? Do you have fuel coming in?
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Q plate cars are assumed to be first registered in 1971 for MOT tests, so they have the least emission standards to meet! ;)
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as Dinkus says... that's how I did mine on J-Dub... 8) JB Weld will hold it with no problems and is available cheaply from Hellfrauds... 8)
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V6x2 998 406 = drivers arm and blade... 8)
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problem is that it's quite a specific question that not many people will know the answer to VEEDUBBED :? I thought that only the VR6 MKIII golfs were 5 stud? Why not just order some VR6 Corrado rear brake disks and bearings from VW? They should be able to get them and they are pretty reasonable cost wise as well as being a straight bolt on fit... 8)
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Are you 100% sure it's the spring, it's normally a seized caliper when that happens... Ford sell a similar spring off a Granada (scorpio) which is uprated and fits straight on... I only know this 'cos it was one of the bodges for avoiding seized calipers I read about when I first got a Corrado back in '98...
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yeah, it could be a slipping power steering belt...
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Well, I just phoned Smith Knight Fay in Stockport and ordered 2x V6X2 998 406... £18.03 each and they'll be here before Friday... 8) Just thought I'd get some quick so that I can fit 'em to both of my Corrados rather than having to swap 'em around every time I take a car out for a drive! :lol:
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talk to Vince... ;)