Henny

Right, I've just been through this threads and done a quick post count... (yup, I'm bored! ;) :lol: ) Over the 8 pages of this thread there are: 38 off topic / not applicable replies[/*:m:66021] 28 genuine questions asked about CCGB or the forum[/*:m:66021] 25.5 positive CCGB replies (why you should join, what IS being done etc)[/*:m:66021] 15 negative CCGB replies (why you're not going to join again, "I only got one sprinter...", the website is STILL down etc)[/*:m:66021] 6.5 posts which can be called "CCGB bashing" [/*:m:66021] 2 CF bashing posts [/*:m:66021] 2 anti generalisation/CF defence posts [/*:m:66021] This reply [/*:m:66021] (the half posts are from posts which start positive or with a question and then change tack half way through) Hardly what I'd call a "bash-fest" or a witch-hunt of a thread.... :roll: Lets hope this all gets settled to the members satisfaction (as that's what matters at the end of the day) at the AGM. Personally, (and I know the rest of the mods are with me on this) I wish CCGB all the best of luck getting past the rocky time of the last couple of years and I hope that they can go on to pull the club onto the great things that it, and the hard work put in by most of its staff, deserve to achieve. 8) I'll leave this thread here.... If anyone else has any issues with this thread, I suggest you actually sit and read it again in one hit. There's some bloody good info in here, some good suggestions and interesting comments (both positive and negative) that BOTH CCGB and The Corrado Forum can (and hopefully will) learn from.

yay! :cheers: Good to hear you're keeping it now... 8)

Dension make kits to control your IPOD from different head units as you'd control a CD/MD changer... 8) Check 'em out http://www.dension.com 8)

8) good innit! 8) :D

also check that the handbrake mechanism is fully releasing on that wheel's caliper. If it's not, then you will have a reduced travel on the piston so it will be putting more force onto the disk than it should be.

tell 'em to bog off... If they won't show you a copy of any documents relating to your car and yet they want discounts because of them, if it were my car, they'd be skating along the floor on their arses where they landed after being thrown off my land! :lol:

Alex, what you seem to be ignoring with your recent posts is that there is a LOT of very unhappy people who have been members of CCGB who want to know what is/has been going on and what's going to be done about it. This thread, admittedly, has got more than it's fair share of people bashing the club, but there's both view points in here, which is the whole point of a public forum... :) You know I (for one) won't flame you (or pretty much anybody else) on a forum as it's pointless, gets nowhere and nothing is accomplished by it. Discussion and debate are the keys to getting anything done. What does annoy me about your attitude is that you generalise about EVERYONE on this forum in your posts, when we have several thousand members, (many of who would benefit from some of your experience and knowledge) and who have no idea what is going on with CCGB, yet who you tar with the same brush as the very select few who seem to have a real problem (or have issues) with CCGB and how it is/has been run. That kinda makes you look like a hypocrit and doesn't do your online persona any good... I appreciate that you do a lot for the scene with your meetings and that you put in a lot more than some other people do, but that still does not give you the right to generalise about the CF members in this way. It'd be a sad day if any of our members (including you) decide that they don't want to come to the forum due to the general attitude on here, as this is still the friendliest and most helpful forum I've visited... Sit down, chill out and have a think, my friend... Are you just p!ssed at a couple of people's comments, or do you really have issues with the 1000+ people who post on here regularly? :|

it's on the main fuse box. Check that all of the relays are seated properly as they can work loose and cause "interesting" faults like this... ;) Indicator relays are pretty cheap and you should be able to get one to suit from just about any decent car accessory shop. To remove the clocks is easy, there's 2 screws at the top of the surround which you need to remove and 2 in the bottom outer corners behind plastic covers. Drop the steering wheel to it's lowest setting and you can then remove the black plastic housing. Behind it you'll see that there's 2 screws in the top outer corners of the clock cluster which you can remove with a long handled screwdriver. The clocks will then pivot forwards around the bottom edge. If you have an analogue mile counter, then you've got a speedo cable to fight with, if not, there's just a single multiplug to undo. Around the middle of the back of the gauges there should be a sensor with a rubber vacuum hose on it. If this hose is missing/damaged you'll get your 99.9 mpg reading.

IIRC UK spec had heated washer jets as standard on all cars. They're about £18 each side to replace if yours are blocked/the wires have fallen off... (guess who's just done his! ;) )

yup, got a late bonnet on my early G60 and the profile down the wing is identical, it's only the flaredness (is that a real word?!?) of the arch which differs on the front wings (and it's about 8mm difference! :crazyeyes: ) beeftech, the early bracing was symetrical and pretty much a triangle shape IIRC, the later bracing isn't symetrical and has a larger space without bracing over the engine than over the gearbox to clear the VR6 engine. If you've a late bonnet skin with early symetrical bracing, someone's done something a little odd... :| I know my early G60's had a new bonnet on it (as well as headlight and slam panel) at some point in it's past (even though it's HPI clear) after hitting a post of some description as the dent in the bumper is still there! :roll: :lol: You'll probably find that if you have a late bonnet on an early car, your car will have had a similar light bump to my Grey G60 and it was impossible to get hold of a new early style bonnet when the accident occured...

:oops: yeah, that was more to do with the fact that they were the cheapo nasty 10mm spacers (non-hubcentric) from Hellfrauds that I was using while 16VG60 was getting my custom (hubcentric) ones made for me and the fact I hadn't torqued up that wheel properly after bleeding the brakes that morning.... :oops: :lol: I was bloody lucky in hindsight... 8) :? I got my extended bolts from Midland wheel shop

fla, there should be pics in my members gallery for J-DUB... click on the link in my sig and have a wade through the thread... (it's a bit of a monster thread though... :| )

For the indicators, check that your relays are all plugged into the fuse box fully, also make sure that all of the multiplugs behind the fuse box are in fully too... The 99.9 mpg is usually because the pipe on the back of the dash board instruments is blocked, damaged, or has come off.

There's absolutely no point in doing this in this order unless you have money you need to spend... :? What you need to do is get all the bits together, fit them at once and THEN get a remap done. If you do it the way you say, as soon as you make any more changes to the engine spec, or pulley size, the money you spent on the remap will have been wasted as the chip's map will no longer be accurate for your engine... :roll: Best plan of action is: 1) charger rebuild 2) SNS chip, pulley and red tops (you won't need the 3.5fpr anymore if you get a newer SNS chip ;) ) 3) Toothed pulleys + remap.

check the vacuum hose from the back of the throttle body to the ECU. This needs to be exactly 1m long and MUST be in good condition. If it's not, the ECU won't know what the hell is going on and so won't be able to tell the engine what to do properly.

*cough*

bob1888cfc, pull off a spark plug lead, connect a new plug to the lead and rest the nut shaped bit of the plug on the inlet manifold (the bunch of bananas!) Turn the key and crank the engine over while someone watches the spark plug. If it sparks then you're ignition system is at least working OK. With the mention of the occasional puff of smoke, I'd say you ARE getting a spark, and probably fuel too, but I reckon that your timing is out. Have you no way of getting this car to a garage to get it checked over? It'd be a whole hell of a lot easier (and probably cheaper!) to get it diagnosed by a garage to find out what's wrong with it rather than forking out for a new engine and fitting just to find out it's something silly like a dodgy fuel pump! :lol: Good luck! 8)

sounds like the pipes have been run too close to the radiator fan thermo switch (big brass nut looking thing between the top and bottom hoses on the radiator with a connector with 3 thick red/stripe wires going to it) You may find that if you pull the connector off the switch, you may be able to re-route the cable so that it's not rubbing anymore... 8)

deffo with Gav here... if the main earth to the gearbox gets crappy, then the engine and startermotor will try and earth through the path of least resistance which will be through your ECU... not good... Check the cable on the -ve on the battery which then runs onto the chassis under the battery and then onto the gearbox... if this looks green or has lots of white powder on it, replace it with a new one from VAG (about £28 IIRC)

Supercharged, that's not quite true... their policy is that they'll change the bearings if "they appear to be worn"... If not, they leave 'em alone! With that kind of mentality you could end up with bearings being 120K miles old and thinking that the charger is all well and healthy... :|

joebloggsVR69, http://www.trakm8.com is the tracker I've got on my car... I've modded it a little to change a couple of the functions slightly (does that really suprise you though! ;) :lol: ) and added a couple of circuits to it to do the engine kill function, but they're simple and are detailed in the instructions... 8)

if it was a Jabba rebuild, DEFINATELY get Darren at G-werks to have a look at it ASAP! They're getting themselves a bit of a negative reputation at Jabba from the G-lader boys these days as their attention to detail in their more recent rebuilds hasn't been what it should :|

yup, corrados have a second lock setting. About 10 seconds after the main locks have activated you should hear the pump fire again as it activates the dead locks. Try using your key and see if it works then, if it does work on the key, but not on the alarm, take your car back to where the alarm was fitted and go and shout at them lots! :mad: A disklok is a good idea, as is a removable steering wheel (hopefully getting a removeable one soon), but at the end of the day, if they want your car bad enough, they'll just pick it up and take it away on a truck. The ONLY way to ensure your car remains yours in the long run is to fit a tracking device. The one on my car now texts me to let me know: if the alarm's been triggered[/*:m:9601d] if the car's moved from where I told it to stay.[/*:m:9601d] if I get a faster 0-60 time than I've previously managed :twisted: :lol:[/*:m:9601d] where the car is when I ask it, including direction and speed[/*:m:9601d] if a garage has moved the car outside of an area I set before leaving the car with them[/*:m:9601d] and several other neat things too... 8) :twisted:[/*:m:9601d] Oh, and it's now got the "kill" command programmed into it, so if anyone ever carjacks me or nicks my keys, I can simply phone the car, tell it the correct combination and the engine will imobilise (even if it's running!) leaving the car stranded wherever it is.... I can then phone the police and give them the exact location of the car... 8) For £350 + fitting and a pay as you go sim card, I think it's well worth it! 8)

eye, just read this one... it's either a dead Fuse or the relay is loose on the fuse box.

DO NOT PUT WASHING UP LIQUID IN YOUR COOLANT SYSTEM!!!! This will almost certainly destroy things as the pressure causes the liquid to foam up! :roll: Best way is to flush it all out with a hose as skimask, says.... 8)