Henny

Ford, yeah, that's pretty much what'd happen... It'd only be a problem if you're adding in LOTS of a much thinner oil to something unknown... ;)

Have you got an after market wheel on your car? Sounds like the nut is loose which holds the wheel on... ;) Coin info was added to last post, although it now sounds like it's not what your problem is... ;)

loose in which direction? Will the wheel pull towards you/push away from you?[/*:m:2afc9] Does it move in a straight line up and down?[/*:m:2afc9] Does it move in a straight line side to side?[/*:m:2afc9] If it just feels "vague" then move the adjuster up or down a notch and see if that cures it (yes, it'll feel weird 'cos you won't be used to that position of the wheel, but you'll be able to tell if it's cured the problem.) If that does cure it, there's a solution on here involving gluing a coin onto the mechanism... (I kid you not, apparently it works a treat! 8) ) *edit* In fact, the repair details are HERE! 8)

I have no idea what kit is fitted to my new G60, but it's a lovely even drop of about 40mm all around and the ride is excellent... I'm almost considering NOT changing the suspension it's that nice... 8) I'll have a look next time I get it up on ramps to see what's fitted to it and have a look through the receipts folder I got with the car to see if there's anything in there too... 8)

I cheated when I reversed my LCDs on J-DUB and just drove everywhere with my lights on! :lol: I was always going to wire it as Gixxeruk has, but never got around to it... :oops:

1) Put a block of wood onto a trolley jack and then put it under the front of the engine and jack it up so that the engine is JUST being supported by the jack. 2) Disconnect the battery. 3) Disconnect the wires to the starter motor 4) Undo the 2 big bolts which hold the starter onto the gearbox and remove 'em (you'll see that they also hold the front engine mount bracket on, hence why you jacked the engine up at the start to stop it falling out! ;) ) 5) Pull the starter motor out of the gearbox. Normally, they jam up 'cos of excess dust having collected on the shaft which the gear slides up to engage onto the flywheels teeth. Clean this shaft up carefully, and make sure that you can pull the gear up the shaft as you turn it by hand and that it's nice and smooth... 8) Re-fitting is the reverse of removal... [/haynes] 8)

yup, door card off jobbie... sorry... It's not a bad job to do though... especially on the passenger door as it's only got the speaker and one window switch to deal with... 8)

just put on a note that they MAY fit other cars with the use of suitable spiggot rings, and you'll be fine... ;) 8)

Coil overs are great if you want to do one of the following: 1) change your ride height regularly 2) corner weight your car for the ultimate in balance/handling 3) drop the car as far into the weeds as you can 4) show off the suspension at shows Otherwise, save some cash and get a good set of shocks/springs which will give you the ride height you want to achieve... Kev (and others) rate the H&R springs and Koni top adjustable shocks to be among the best for giving near standard ride quality with a lower ride height. You also have to factor in what kind of roads you drive on mostly and how compliant you want the ride quality to be... Coilovers DO tend to be a bit harsher/firmer than a normal set of shocks/springs as they have to be reasonably uprated to be able to drop to their lowest setting... The FK coilovers have a good reputation (I'll probably be fitting some to my own car as soon as I've sorted out some slight financial hic-cups...) and are supposed to give a very good ride quality... 8)

you should be able to get the paint off with some elbow grease, a large cloth and some paint thinners... Wear gloves though, and try not to inhale the fumes too much... ;)

£40/gallon?!? whuh? :crazyeyes: I paid about £12 per 5 litre tub a couple of weeks ago when I last bought some... :|

he had 4 sets of 'em! :D

they're also very good for buying gauges from... ;) Oh, and if you want a MAD beetle engine building, go talk to 'em 'cos they've built some right nutter engines! 8) (they're just down the road from where I work)

yup... more Borbet C's... 8) Slightly wierd offset on 'em though so that I can put the spacers behind 'em to clear the brembos when I fit 'em to this car without the wheels sticking out of her narrower early arches... Back up to 10 Borbet Cs now then... :oops: 14 if I win the other auction too! :| :lol:

Didn't see the side repeaters for 4.99, but I did get some nice smoked ones for £1 each! :lol: I also managed to get a pair of Porsche/Brembo 4 pot alloy calipers for £60 (with new pagid pads!) and another "corrado driving man logo" sticker which is now in my rear window like the one in J-DUB... 8) Oh, and I've still got mud on my trainers from helping push half a dozen cars out of the carpark! :lol: One of 'em was a VERY embarresed looking bloke in a Golf Rallye who was well and truely stuck until we told him to stick it in reverse and gave him a push! :lol:

nice to hear mate... get some pics up! 8)

bcstudent, that's kinda what I was thinking, only a little less "in your face" than the merc ones... I think that some smoked amber LEDs could easily be blended into my mirrors so that they shine well, but aren't obvious when they're not lit as this colour seems to work well with the smoked colours (as with the rear lights and current side repeaters!) I have a spare set of corrado mirrors (although they're tornado pink at the moment) which I may have a bit of a play with... ;) 8) Oooh! And I just got an email from ebay as I was writing this to let me know that I've just won a new set of wheels from Germany! :D 8)

Got this exact same problem with my CodeAlarm system in my Grey G60... windows start to move and then stop... Definately the pulse length that needs extending Andi... 8)

I know that Dinkus (at least I think it was him :? ) did a group buy on stainless steel kick plates, but I have no idea if they're longer or wider than the plastic ones fitted as standard... :|

nah, I wanted more than 0.5mm clearance between the inside of my wheel spokes and the brembo calipers! :lol: 1.5mm is a bit more respectable! 8)

Supercharged, not on a valver they're not... ;) Both the brown and the white sensors are oil pressure sensors superhans... (oil temp is on the side of the head on a valver... ;) )

please keep this in just one thread I've locked this one up. use the link above for any replies please... :|

the oil cooler is only £25 from Euro and takes about 30 mins to fit (but will need a new oil filter to be fitted at the same time) There's a nut that you undo that's on the thread above the oil filter... undo that, remove the 2 water hoses and the oil cooler will just drop off. When re-fitting, don't forget to add a little grease to the gasket on the top of the new oil cooler and only tighten the nut by hand so that it's reasonably tight, but not mega tight else you could damage your new cooler! Don't put it off, change the oil cooler (never a bad idea if it's not been done before) and if that doesn't sort it, get the head gasket done... ;)

as you look at the pipes, the outer 2 are fuel feed and fuel return, the inner one is the fuel tank breather pipe. I can't remember exactly which way around the feed and return are, although I'm reasonably sure the left hand one (as you look from the front of the car) is the feed and the right hand one is the return...

Bobby, you'll find that the wire is brown with a THIN white stripe. It's supposed to connect onto the fan-run-on temp sensor, but I'm not sure where it lives on the KR engine... :|