Henny

they're pretty easy to replace (if a little expensive) You just need to disconnect the 4 hoses and connect 'em to the new valves. It's the BIG chunk just by the bulkhead in the engine bay with the 4 waterpipes connected to it, 2 of which go through the bulkhead just to the right of the head as you look at it from the front of the car. You CAN'T miss it! ;)

you've not snapped off or cracked one of the 2 plugs on the servo valve have you? Did this on mine and had similar problems to those you describe... :|

check the earth contacts from the battery onto the chassis and engine/gearbox. If this is all green or has a white powder on it, you could do with replacing it. It could also be that your starter is jamming. You'd need to take it off and check it to make sure that the gear that drives the flywheel can move up and down the shaft freely as the gear is turned by hand. If it can't be, then it's new starter motor time...

if you are SURE that there's no snail-trails around any of the plastic flanges and that there's no water being dripped from the pump or radiator, then the ONLY other place it can be going is out of your exhaust via a dodgy head gasket.... :| Does the engine pressurise the water pipes so they are rock hard very soon after starting the engine? If so, that's another sign that you've got a weeping head gasket... :?

you also get grit, brake dust, road salt and other crud building up on the backs of the spokes and on the caliper as well (as Kev rightly points out) as expansion of both wheels and calipers during heavy braking (which I planned on doing lots of, hence the calipers! :lol:)... I probably would have been fine with 0.5mm clearance, but I felt it was safer to have 1.5mm and as I had to get custom spacers anyway, it didn't cost me any more for the extra peace of mind... 8) dubster82, what spacing do you need, and what is the inside diameter of the wheels center (the outer diameter of the spiggot ring) PM me the details and I'll ask my mate and see what he'll charge for a set... 8)

Kev, yup, the original stuff IS a process done during the manufacture of the glass... however, some of the PRO places CAN tint glass to be VERY similar to Chromalux... 8) Worth phoning around your local window tinting places and asking... ;) Oh, and if you simply tell anyone who gets arsey that you've had the fronts tinted that they were like that when you bought the car a couple of years ago, they don't have a leg to stand on as long as they let through the specified amount of light... ;)

you don't need a torque wrench, but I'm a stickler for making sure things are tightened to the correct torque, especially on important things like brakes and wheels... ;)

get yourself a Haynes manual for a MKII Golf... Full, detailed instructions in there, complete with Torque settings... 8)

what? Like this one? ;) 8)

Depending on what your problem is, there's a guide on how to fix the column using a 5p coin and a hammer HERE

to all those without an adjustable column... Be thankfull... If the extra joints in the column, or the adjustable mechanism itself goes wrong, it's over £450 from VAG! :| :crazyeyes: If anything goes wrong/loose with the non-adjustable one, you probably need to tighten the bolts up which hold the column on! :lol:

*runs off to Halfords to get a wheel for the Grey G60... * ;) :lol:

Nah, J-DUB was an utter blast to drive after I rebuilt and modified her... BAGS more torque and power then standard, yet as refined (although somewhat noisier) I know what you mean about the TDi conversion though... ;) 8) I've already put 4000 miles on my Grey G60 since early Jan, and I'm loving every mile... 8) That's why I bought a Corrado in the first place... If I'm stuck in a car for 2 hours+ a day, I want something that looks good, is different from the normal fords and jap-crap, is comfortable and has a bit of go behind it... 8)

Storm Classic, nice sig file mate! :lol:

Andy T, if you'd have seen just HOW close the caliper was to the inside edge of the spokes, you'd have wanted some more clearance too! :lol: Ask anyone who saw the car at Inters last year just HOW close they were... ;) The extra 1mm clearance makes one hell of a difference to my confidence!

buy one from Trimsport... ;)

I've had 3 or 4 16V KR engines now, and the standard head gasket is fine as long as you buy a good quality make... Unless you plan on making some serious modifications in the future, stick with a standard VAG one... 8)

they're about £80 from ECP over here... Get onto your local Bosch dealer, I'd bet they can get 'em cheaper than VAG... ;) 8)

momo race... simple and elegant while being nice to hold and use... 8)

The problem is that the central shaft of the hub (the bit wot makes the original hub centric) sticks out by about 8mm from the mounting face + the nut on the end. That means that anything under around 13mm can't be made hubcentric with OE wheels as they will have a VERY small mounting area for the central shaft to connect onto the new mounting face of the spacer. This would mean that it won't take the weight and will be more a danger than a help... :| I got around the problem 'cos my Borbets need Spiggot rings to fit the G60 properly. I designed a set of spacers which also acted as the spiggot rings meaning that they could be 11mm (or anything I wanted from 0mm upwards ;) ) without any danger of the central shaft being too thin to take the stresses placed on it... 16VG60 got my original set machined up for me, although I have since had another set made up as well by a mate at a local engineering shop who did it for a favour he owed me... 8)

if you can go G60 to 20VT, it ain't gonna be that much more difficult to go 16V to 20VT as the G60 and 16V engines use the same mounting points and fuel tank... In fact, the 16V fuel pump has a higher flow rate than that of the G60! 8) I dunno how difficult/easy it is, but have a word with the people Benji mentions as they'll know the ins and outs of it... 8)

thanks to Ovalthemoon (Luke) for the interior I picked up from him at Dubfreeze... Interior was exactly as described... 8)

there's just different calipers Blue_Joe, they use the same disks and pads, but don't suffer from the crap handbrake that the MKII items do and they don't seize up like the MKII units do either... Disk size is unaffected...

Personally, seeing as how I'll have pretty much rebuilt the car myself, with photo rebuild evidence and a stack of receipts to prove, I don't think anyone will really care much that I don't have service stamps in the book 'cos I serviced it myself! :lol: Most people who are after Corrados now are happy if you can show that you know what you're doing, have receipts for the parts you've used, have used GOOD quality OE parts... personally, a FVWSH is actually a turn off for a car of this age as VW dealers really don't have a clue about cars like these anymore... :roll: :|

odd, I simply phoned C&R and ordered the MKIV rear brake kit for a G60 Corrado... The bits turned up about 3 days later and fitted perfectly first time... :|