Henny

It is when some muppet's put a nasty glass pop up one in instead which isn't even in straight... :( I've got a nice electric tilt and slide moonroof to go in instead now though... 8)

kevhaywire, :lol: 8) True, I was just making the point that the knock sensors are a known weak point on the G60 and not to rule it out as a possibility just 'cos it wasn't the problem on a possibly similar case in your car... 8)

http://website.lineone.net/~quigger/heater.htm 8)

which car has it gone on? 1.8 16V or VR6? If it's the valver, you should be able to get at it from below exactly the same as the drivers side one... I can't say about the VR 'cos I've never worked on one... :| There are a load of other threads about opening the bonnet when the cable has snapped, that one I brought up was just a quick example... 8)

that's why I suggested knock sensor,dr_mat, the G60 hasn't got adaptation, so I'm with you there... 8) I still reckon that it's a good place to start for Garry, even if that wasn't the problem on Kev's completely different engine and ignition system... ;)

tyre pressures? Mine was pulling BADLY to the left after being off the road for the last 6 weeks while I've been rebuilding the engine (again :roll: ) and it turned out that I've a very slow puncture on the left front tyre so it only had 10psi in it.. :| pumped it up and all's straight and well again! :D

yeah, with Kev here... Big ends rumble, they don't rattle.... Are you absolutely sure that it's coming from the bottom end of the engine and not somewhere else like the clutch or exhaust? Funny noises are THE most difficult thing to sort out over a forum as everyone describes sounds slightly differently and it's quite subjective... Have you checked your knock sensor? As daft as it sounds it could be that your timing's been set somewhat aggressively and 'cos your sensor's died, you've got a slight permanent pinking occurring which is the rattle you can hear... :| *Edit* I've no experience of little ends going on a G60 though, I do know that they give a knocking sound from the top end, not dis-similar to having a small foreign object in the cylinder... :oops: :roll:

ah, I forgot about the Pirelli Ps... :oops: The first watercooled car I worked on was a VW Golf GTI Campaign in Lhasa green... 8) I've been hooked ever since and have owned 5 MKI Golfs since, 4 of 'em being GTIs, and one of which I still own along with the 16V engine which she had in her last incarnation! 8) :) She's also pretty much campaign spec, including the tinted glass, side strips etc, but no sunroof... :(

MFA was standard on ALL 1.8 GTIs... :wink: Campaigns got: Leather steering wheel Tinted glass Sunroof as standard Spotlamps as standard A couple of colour options not available normally And that's about it... As with Storms, these were run-out model MKI GTIs and it was possible to buy a MKI GTI with the same spec as the Campaign, but it would have cost slightly more... There was (and still is) nothing remarkable about the campaign golf MKI except the fact that they were the last ones... :roll: Oh, and having said that, I'd still like one! ;) :lol:

Well, it's another one of those "what's it worth" threads, Sorry... :roll: :oops: Don't worry, it's not 'cos I'm thinking of selling her, and I've not crashed her or anything silly like that... :lol: I've got an agreed value policy on my insurance and they need an independent valuation on my car with an engineers report before they'd even think about coughing up anything more than the 2K they reckon is Book Value at the moment if anything should happen to her... :| So, the big questions are "how much is she worth?" and "who'll actually put their balls to the wall and put that in writing to shut 'em up over at Flux's?!?" I've got receipts for just about everything I've had done totalling (are you sitting comfortably?) over £12K NOT including the initial purchase price :oops: I've hundreds photos of just about everything being done, and she's about to go in to get the respray I've been promising her for the last 2 years... I've also got rolling road stats from Stealth and timing stats from the PVW article from the group thrash at Bruntingthorpe.... So, anyone know where I can take her to get a reasonable valuation done on her which will reflect the amount of time, effort and money I've put into this car so that I have the peace of mind to know that if the worst should happen, I'll get something reasonable back... I know I'm never gonna get back what I've put in, and I'm not expecting that, but I'm at a total loss as to what she's really worth now... :| Ideas, comments and suggestions welcome... 8)

Eurocarparts sells the fan for £44.50... it's a 15 minute job to swap it over too, but add on about 20 mins to solder in the new thermal fuse... 8) It's a MKII Golf Heater motor that you need according to the Euro site... ;)

The search is your friend! :roll: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10986

yeah, there's not really a lot you can do on a head without all the machining tools and presses, so you'd have to give the head to a machine shop to get the guides and seats done anyway... That shouldn't cost you too much... The bits that WILL save you the cash are lapping the valves in (only takes 5 or 10 mins per valve, but with 12vales at £30 an hour, it's a nice little saving considering the tools are less than £5!) and re-assebly of the valves... You could also have a play with a dremmel and enlarge the ports and have a go at flowing the head a little... if you read up online about gas-flowing it's actually pretty easy and makes a lot of sense once you read into it.... I have no idea how much difference you can make to a VR head though... :| The part which will save you the MAJOR cash is swapping the two heads over... If you've got the second hand one all ready to go then your time off the road will be drastically reduced, your costs will be reduced and you may even be able to do it yourself which will save you muchos dosh! 8) Anyone else want to chip in who's actually done this on a VR in case I've missed anything? 8)

If I were to be fitting a new engine, I'd definately whip off the sump, replace the oil pump and check the bottom end and big end shells while it was out of the car... The bottom end and big end shells are only about £40 all in for a 4cylinder VW engine and can be done without taking out the crank... I'd also be tempted to stick in some new piston rings so you KNOW that you've got a good bottom end which will last you a good 80K miles with no problems if treated properly for the first few hundred miles... 8)

a cylinder head should normally have new valve seats and guides fitted during a re-con. As I guide, I'd expect a decent re-con to include: Flatness testing and light skim if needed (machine shop job) Head cleaning both inside and out. (machine shop job) New valve guides pressing in as per manufacturers specs (machine shop job) New valve seats + 3 step cutting to give the best valve seal possible (machine shop job) Valves checking for true-ness (machine shop job) Valves cleaning and lapping into seats to ensure near perfect seal. (can be done at home easily enough) New seals and re-assembly of valves/springs/seals (can be done at home with a valve compressor tool) New tappets (if you're gonna do it properly! ;) ) (easy to do at home) I'd also get the cams checked if they come with the head to ensure that they're within spec, although VW cams tend to be pretty good and not wear much at all... 8) Specialist tools you'll need to buy are: Valve compressor (so you can dismantle the valves/springs/seals etc) Valve lapping tool + Paste (stick with sucker pad on the end + cutting paste, a couple of quid from most motoring stores)

the squeal means that you've got dead bearings in the fan motor... time for a new fan... :( The reason that it's only working on 4 is 'cos the dodgy bearings have made the fan draw more current and so it's blown the thermal fuse on the resistor pack... Fortunately that's only a 30p repair... 8) Change the fan, replace the thermal fuse on the resistor pack and you'll be back to full 4 speed blower goodness again! :D

yup, dead simple! 8) take off the lower dash shelf (drivers side :roll: :lol: ) and then get your head in down there... You'll see the cable on the left hand side of the pedal cluster - (YES, I DO mean left side! ) Unhook it and push it up a little bit. In the engine bay, un clip the cable from the throttle, and feed it back. Now pull the cable from the cabin into the scuttle panel area and then through the bulkhead into the engine bay... You should now have the old cable out... Re-fitting is the reverse of removal [/haynes] Just remember to make sure the grommets are all seated properly else you'll get water coming in next time it rains! :roll: :lol: Should take no more than 15 minutes to do it and only requires a screwdriver to undo the lower dash and a torch to see what you're doing down by the pedals... 8)

buy a new one... they're not expensive... It's pretty easy to replace one, just a pipe and a couple of bolts to undo... bleeding it up is a two man job though, as you need someone to press and pull on the pedal as you open and close the bleed nipple... Eurocarparts sell 'em for £30 or £43 for an ATE one (OE manufacturer)

talk to Vince down at stealth racing.... there ain't a lot about VW 'boxes that he doesn't know... For 300+ Lb/Ft you're gonna need something a little special though... :|

yup... There's talk of one in Nov/Dec on this very Forum which I'm aiming at getting J-DUB down to... Then we'll see what she's like when properly set up... 8) My new digital timing strobe should arrive tomorrow too, so I'll be able to set the engine up properly at home and tweak her lots whenever I feel like it from then on... ;) 8)

Well bu&&er me if she doesn't feel faster than she was before! :crazyeyes: I dunno why, but she's revvier and feels torquier than she was before this problem occurred, and she's only got 50 miles on this rebuild so far! I soooo can't wait 'til she's bedded in... this is like a kind of torture not being able to use her to her full potential! :| Cheers to all who have contributed to this thread and offered help and assistance.... Much appreciated.... 8)

Sheesh... sorry to hear that Gav... :( Glad you've got it sorted though... 8)

Well, the "doing the pistons myself" bit didn't happen... I wimped out and took 'em to my local engineering place who machined and balanced 'em for me.... to within 0.1g over the 4 pistons!!! :crazyeyes: :lol: 8) Now that's what I call balancing... Still, I've now probably got the most accurate kitchen scales out of anyone on here! :lol: :mrgreen: And then, about 40 minutes ago, I turned the key and fired her up for the first time since I started this thread... 8) Damn, that's still a GOOD feeling when an engine you've just rebuilt fires up.... even if it isn't the first time you've rebuilt it! :lol: 8)

Basically, you need a Thatcham certified immobiliser (cat 2) or alarm/immobiliser (cat1) before just about anyone will insure you... I've had one fitted to almost every car I've owned anyway just for my own peace of mind! 8) De-locking with a set of passat handles will confuse some of the little sh!ts, but those who then try anyway will still be able to get in the same way as before... the only handles that will get around that design flaw are the audi style flush ones which need some fairlly heavy bodywork mods to get 'em to fit and are welded in... Quite expensive, but look fantastic! 8) A tracking device such as the Maxon TrakM8 I have fitted to my car will help with your insurance with some companies... Mine's working out that it'll pay for itself in 2 years thanks to the discounts! :D I also have made a small circuit that means I can turn off the engine via a text message if I ever have my keys stolen! :twisted: 8) That'll annoy any car-jackers! :lol: At the end of the day, there's only so much you can do to try and stop 'em... if some little $#!£ wants either your car, or the contents of it, then they're gonna give it a damned good go at getting 'em without bothering what damage they're doing on the way... :( Best bet is to make sure you NEVER leave anything valuable on view in the car, make sure there's plenty of visual deterents inside the car (disk lock, flashing alarm LEDs etc) and that it's always parked somewhere visible and safe... 8)

I'm with ya there on the reflectors, Mike... When that stupid *£$~%@ in the 4x4 reversed into my car and smashed both headlamps, I couldn't believe the difference in the headlamp brightness when I replaced 'em with brand new items... It was unreal... And then I fitted one of Gav's Looms and that made it totally mind blowing... from a couple of candle power to a flippin' light house! :D 8)