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Henny

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Everything posted by Henny

  1. dodgy wire from the starter switch to the solenoid or possibly the earth strap from the battery to the chassis and then onto the gearbox in that case... 8)
  2. Just weld up the doors and extend the propshaft out the back and put a propellor on the back! ;) :lol: Worlds first amphibious Corrado?!? :lol: :twisted:
  3. Nope, you are actually touching the wire onto the solenoid terminal to fire the startermotor... Sounds like either the live wire has become damaged from the switch to the starter (or an immobiliser has gone mad which is attached to that wire) or your switch has died... :|
  4. the carbon cannister is just that, a plastic cylinder filled with an active charcoal powder... The crank case breather and fuel tank breather are routed through it to filter any nasties out (apparently) and then back into the inlet to burn off the waste gasses... :| Great when new, but they've a definate life span before the charcoal becomes non-active and I've NEVER heard of one being replaced... :| Bin it.. it was only really added to get the Corrado into America and through their wonderful emission laws anyway... :roll: :lol: On a VR you need to keep a valve else your ECU will throw an error code... :|
  5. G60 fuel economy is actually slightly improved by the reroute kit due to the engine and charger running with a cooler air intake... 8)
  6. that's where the water pump is... Jack her up and sling some axle stands under her and then switch her on and see if you can see where the water is coming from... It's normally reasonably easy to see if it's a proper drip... 8) Obviously be VERY carefull of the moving parts at that end of the engine and also of the belts and other bits which can get hot... [/disclaimer]
  7. also the blue temp sender... this normally causes overfuelling, but can also cause underfuelling if it fails in a slightly less normal way... I take it you've checked the resistance of the CO pot and that it's working OK?
  8. 1.8 16Vs should get around 30 to 35MPG on a long steady run and around 25 to 30 around town... this will drop lots if you're hammering it lots though... Sit at 85 to 90 on a motorway and you'll get around 25mpg... :| (at least that's what my old valver used to give me...)
  9. just thought of another one... Mirrors... 8)
  10. OK, so while I was waiting to set up an interview with Mani from the Stone Roses today, my mind started to drift a little... I got thinking about all the bits off other cars which have made their way onto Corrados like Seat or S2 brakes, Porsche wheels etc etc etc and suddenly had this thought about which bits OFF a Corrado have been used a lot on OTHER cars... :? The engines and seats were about the only bits I could think of... :? Surely there's more good bits on a Corrado which other people want in their cars?!? Anyone know of any other bits which get swapped? :?
  11. http://the-corrado.net/how-to/index.php ... ails&id=12 it's a "How to fix" the late heater controls... ;)
  12. The fan switches are actually dual switches with different switching points for on and off... The standard switch's low speed setting is 92/84 (switches the fan on at 92 and won't let it off again until it's under 84) The high setting is 108/92 (switches on the second speed when the temp goes over 108 and doesn't let it drop to the lower speed until 92 degrees...) There are lots of variations to these switches including single speed versions and lower rated ones which were normally used on cars with Air-con... 8) If your fan isn't kicking in until 110ish, then it sounds very much like there's something wrong with the low speed setup somewhere... If you are also not getting a fan run on when the engine is hot, but the ignition has just been switched off, I'd be inclined to think that the resistor network inside the fan motor has died so you only have the flat out speed setting left working... :?
  13. I've used Euro ones for my last couple of changes (different engines! ;) ) and they've been fine... and about half the price too! 8)
  14. yup, you run the risk of damaging or snapping off the locking keys lugs with an air gun... only ever torque 'em up/ undo 'em by hand... 8)
  15. So, does ANYONE know of any decent GPS software for a laptop? :? Got the hardware all ready to go, just need some decent easy to use software (preferably with camera warnings! ;) )
  16. Henny

    Knock Sensor....

    1.8 16V Corrados don't have a knock sensor.... :?
  17. Henny

    Door handles?

    yes, the barrels are identical. make sure you have the correct key in the ones you want to keep as you remove the barrel though else it may fire the pins out as you remove it from the handle! :?
  18. Yeah but the mileage on yours is pretty much irrelevant because there's not an original piece of car left! "I've had this same broom for 30yrs...but it's had 14 new heads and 10 new handles" Not when it completely died it wasn't... :lol: She had the coil overs done and had a Jabba stage 4 done, but that was about it... It was only AFTER the bolt broke that she basically became new again! :lol: Oh, and I just crossed 130K miles again at 130mph the other week! :lol: (she's been clocked, hence the "again" )
  19. Badly! :lol: although that engine AND RWD would be a little more interesting... ;) :D There've been quite a few different VAG engines used in Corrados over the years... 1.9 TDI 1.8 20VT 2.0 20VT (running something silly like 400bhp IIRC) 1.4 (yeah, I don't get that one either, but it was in Autotrader not too long ago... :? ) R32 engine (not seen this one yet, but I know it has been done) and probably many other Audi lumps too...
  20. as Nigel says, replace the actual flanges, not just the seals as they will almost certainly crack when you come to tighten up the bolts... the one on the side of the head is a little more fiddly to do 'cos of the metal water pipe, but you can just unhook that and then get the flange off... 8) Complete list of bits you'll need below: (all available from Euro and GSF for much less than a Stealer! ;) ) Side coolant flange Front coolant flange (now with 3 sensor holes) Blue water temp sender Black water temp sender Water temp sender blank 3x O ring for water temp senders 3x retaining clip for water temp senders 2x head flange O rings 2litres G12+ coolant (or FEBI pink stuff which is the same just has a different non-VAG label on it! ;) ) Personally, I'd also change any of the pipe clips for jubilee clips while you're in there just to make life a little easier for yourself... 8) The only tools you should need are a 10mm socket+ ratchet, a 10mm spanner, a flat blade screwdriver and something to undo those VAG pipe clamps (I used to use mole grips before I changed 'em all to Jubilee clips! ;) ) Good luck! :)
  21. :offtopic: but 0800's cost a BOMB to run... not exactly fair on Daz to be paying so we can annoy him with our questions is it?!? ;) :lol:
  22. Henny

    16v downpipe

    think you may want to alter your title before you get lots of "WTF?" style answers... ;) :lol: 15V indeed.... :lol: IIRC the only way to get a better flowing exhaust on a VW is to use a non-VW one... The JMR downpipe is excellent and REALLY shows up how bad the original downpipes are... 8) The only other way I can think of doing it would be to use a G60 downpipe and a cat bypass pipe mated up to your original manifold... I think this should work as I'm pretty sure that all of JMR's hi-flow downpipes are identical which means that the downpipe mating face on the manifolds must all be the same... :? Send John a PM and ask him... :D 8)
  23. FurkiG60, I was on about an 0870! ;) Honest... :lol: :mrgreen:
  24. odds are the cable has snapped... quite a common thing on VW seats to be honest... :roll: I've not done one on a Corrado seat, but I would imagine it's pretty similar to the MKI and MKII golf seats I have replaced these cables on in the past... :) The cables are available from VW and aren't hellishly expensive. They're also not difficult to fit as long as you are careful not to damage the material on the seats... the worst bit is that you'll probably end up scratching the hell outta your hands... It's a case of taking the seat out of the car and resting it over a work bench so it's upside down. You can then unclip the seat covering along the bottom back of the seat (from catch to catch on the back rest part of the seat) until you can gently lift the material away from the frame and look up inside the back with a torch to see what's happened... Have a look at the bolster replacement how to as it's very similar to that to change the cable in the way the seat comes apart... 8) Good luck! :)
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