Henny

Looks nice and straight... as Rodders says though, shame about the aftermarket sunroof... :| Suits the colour well... 8)

Actually, I had to check before I hit the post button... :oops: :lol:

erm, Dan? UK Corrado speedo's don't have a "0" marker on them... the first one is "10" which is where the end stop is... :wink:

the two switches for the passenger window should be wired in parallel... if one switch works and the other doesn't, then you either have a broken wire from the non-working switch, or a dead switch... swap the 2 switches over and see if it works then so you can work out if it's a wire or the switch... 8)

you could always just pull the needle of and re-seat it slightly further around the dial.... Open up the clocks, nudge the needle over the end stop so that it comes to rest naturally and mark where it is with a mark on a bit of tape or similar... pull off the needle and then replace it moved a little further back than it was originally... now flick it back over the end stop and put it back in to see if it's closer, of if you've gone too far the other way... Simple and easy to do, just be careful when pulling the needle off so you don't snap it... 8)

Welcome to the forum... 8) Yes, there's quite a few of us going..... There's a large thread about Tatton HERE so I'll lock this one up to keep all the comments together... 8)

play it cool at first and just build up before you plonk the instructions in front of him or mention trading standards... ;) Good luck! 8)

simple yet smart... very nice there... 8)

yeah, if the dealer's gonna do it for free, get them to do it every time.... 8) Me? I'd do it myself, but only 'cos I know they aren't gonna pay for it and it's about the only bit of the car I've not dismantled anyway yet... :roll: :oops: :lol:

I'm as near as certain as I can be that the switch can be replaced in the same way as I descibed on page one of this thread on ALL RHD Corrados (and probably LHD too, but I've never worked on one of them, so I can't comment with any conviction) The only things which may have a slight difference are Automatics (may have a lock out in there somewhere to stop you trying to start the car in gear), ones without an adjustable steering column, (although I can't see that making a significant difference to the ignition switch area) and late ones with the immobiliser transpoder chip in the key, although this shouldn't affect the switch due to it being well away from where the transponder's receiver is... :| Looking through this thread, there are comments and tips from people with all sorts of Corrados who have followed the guidelines I wrote, or used them as a basis to be able to do the job themselves... No one yet has said that they don't work or that they can't do it that way... :| Personally, I'd print out a copy of the how-to, and take it in with you... Ask them exactly what they did and how they did it and if they can't/won't explain, ask how it can take that much time to follow those instructions... :| Good luck mate... hope you get it sorted out without too much hassle/cost... 8)

the actual switch is the same on ALL Corrados... :|

I may be wrong on this, but don't the American Corrados not have a brake servo due to being Left Hand Drive? If I remember correctly, the ABS pump does the same job as the servo, so if you're missing the ECU, and the pump is never firing, you're getting NO assistance on your brakes hence the heavy/solid pedal... If the ABS ECU was missing, you'd also get all sorts of oddities with brake warning lamps and ABS lights as I'm pretty sure the level warning lamp is illuminated by the ABS ECU... I'm not sure if you CAN disable the ABS on a LHD car without loosing the brake assistance due to not having a servo... I think your only choice is to get hold of an ABS brain and see if it works with that... (see if ya can borrow one from someone in a local VW club?) Hope this makes sense, and please tell me if I'm wrong about the servo 'cos, as I say, I could be talking utter pish if I've remembered incorrectly.... 8) Oh, and Welcome to the forum... It's always nice to get some more international members on here... 8)

But why bother when the dealer will do it for free? Gotta ask myself that question! ;) 'cos that reply wasn't there when I wrote my reply... I'm with ya there David... I dread to think what a dealer would try to "put right" on my car! :lol: :roll:

It's a dash out job I'm afraid... :| It can be done with the dash left in place, but you're likely to break something in the process (both on your car and on yourself! :? ) so it's just safer all around to take the dash out... I've yet to do one of these on a Corrado (touches as much wood as possible) but there's plenty on here who have tackled it who can give some advice... 8)

Interesting read that.... 8)

there's a slight difference with the line around the top of the bumper, but on the rear I'm pretty sure they're the only 2 differences... 8)

Your location thing worked 'cos it's in your post at the top of this thread... 8), the info only appears on your first post in a thread, same as avatar and signature pictures and text... It's to make the page load quicker and easier and keep the bandwidth costs down... 8) I can't see how that works with the width not improving grip thing... for a start wider tyres help with grip to accelerate quicker, look at an F1 cars tyres compared with a road cars and tell me they're that much bigger but don't grip as well... ;) :lol: It's probably something to do with width after a certain size not making any more difference to cornering grip or something... :| Dunno, just doesn't ring true to my inner engineering side... 8)

The one and only time I've been to a stealer for a service was my MKI Golf 1500 auto, which had a bit of a splutter just as she was coming up to 100,000 miles (sods law, decides to die at 99,998 miles on the M63 on Xmas eve, and then just starts up first time after I had a quick look around to see if anything had fallen off etc... :roll: ) Anyway, took it into a VW Garage in Leek for a full service and got a call back the next morning telling me to come and pick it up... Asked for the bill when I got there and they wanted £635! :crazyeyes: This on a car I paid £500 for and had agreed on a £200ish service! :| They'd done a full brake fluid change and charged me £50 for brake fluid, and also changed both rear wheel cylinders, pads, shoes and handbrake cables even though they were all new and had only been on the car for 3 months! Oh, and they didn't ask me first 'cos they said they didn't have my number.... when I asked them how they got hold of me to tell me it was ready, they said they looked up my number in the phone book... neat trick 'cos they phoned me on my mobile... :roll: :mad: After much jumping up and down and making a sodding big embarrasing (for them) scene (I'm good at that, especially when I have nothing to loose! ;) ) involving me threatening them with police action and all sorts of other things, they backed down and knocked off the labour charge completely so I got the lot for about £300 and got to keep all of my old bits which I insisted they got back for me... 8) This is the same garage (now a Seat dealer) who's hundred and something or other point check on the cars they sell managed to miss the fact there were 4 fuses missing out of my Parents new (6 month old) Leon so it had no side lights, horn, reversing lights or hazard lights, it didn't have the service history with the car, the stereo front was missing and the spare wheel's tools were missing... :? Good service? Hand me a hammer, and I'll show 'em a good service! ;) :twisted:

it'll fit mechanically, but you will find that it sits slightly proud of the bodywork where it joins the wheel arches/rear wings as the late bumpers are designed for the slightly wider body face lift models... :| Shouldn't be enough to jump out and you and scream that it's the wrong bumper though... 8) If it attaches to the iron work anything like the front ones do (and I'm reasonably certain they do) they just clip on to the ironwork and then have a wedge shaped plug pushed into the clips to keep them tight into the holes in the ironwork... 8)

coolrado, yup, but you get a little more harshness transmitted through the lower profile which can affect the ride quality a little... that's why 17s are said to be even more harsh... 8) kevhaywire, yes, yes indeed you can... ;) :lol: 8)

The cost of alloys is an odd thing to be honest... some of it is down to the perception and exclusivity of the wheel to the market they're being sold to, some is down to the design and desirability, some is down to make and some is down to the type of alloy and weight/strength issue... I'd never buy a set of cheap alloys from a manufacturer I'd either never heard of or couldn't find a good website for or good reviews of online.... ;) Oh, and they must be TUV approved for my peace of mind.... 8) I'm with you on the 5 or 6 spoke wheels (hence my Borbet C's! ;) ) and there's lots of good looking, light strong wheels out there like these which can be found for good money... DEL VR6 picked up a set of Borbet Cs and then had them re-furbished not long ago for a VERY tidy sum... annoyed me immensely 'cos I paid more for mine... :roll: :lol: Personally, I think the Corrado suits 16" wheels better than any other diameter (only my opinion though) and most people tend to agree that 16" is a nice compromise between ride comfort and looks. Essentially you hit the nail on the head when you said "Is it really just a case of picking some you think look pretty?" Add in the other factors that are important to you (cost, weight, use - ie lots of town driving you don't want spokes which stick out and catch on every curb! - if the design will clear big brakes etc etc etc) and then see if you can find something which satisfies all of your criteria, or at least a large chunk of 'em... 8) Good luck! 8)

there should be 2 oil pressure senders on the filter head on a 1.8 16V and one temp sender one (yup, the smaller one) on the side of the head... I'm guessing that most of your problems are caused by the fact you've got the sensors in the wrong places and therefore connected to the wrong wires... :|

:shock: oops... I'd just lob it Darren's way and see what he makes of it... :|

if it's leaking quite a bit, clean it all off and see if it's leaking from just ABOVE the sump plug... :| The sumps on the 4 cylinder cars are known for going porus and leaking oil THROUGH the metal... :roll: Good news is that they're less than £25 inc seal from Euro or GSF and aren't too difficult to fit, just a bit of a pain due to working above your head all the time... 8)

Nah, there's 2 fuses for the fan anyway, one for normal running and one for the run on circuit... I'd bet there's also a normal blade fuse in the fusebox which has blown and is stopping the pump from running... Worth a check anyway... ;)