Henny

get a ferrite ring mate, stick it over the RCA cables and see if that makes a difference, or get an iron curtain ring and run the RCAs through and around it (single wrap, thru the middle, around the outside and back thru the middle again....) it's amazing how much noise you can knock off doing that! ;) 8) Lemme know the outer diameter of the cables, and I'll lob a couple in the post to ya! ;)

G60's (and most VW engines of this age) are an utter git for waterleaks... just 'cos you've a slight weap somewhere DOES NOT mean you need your head gasket doing... :roll: Stevemac wrote a thread about waterleaks on Corrados.... worth a look HERE... ;) :mrgreen:

OK, if you're running a G60's management with a new chip (SNS I believe) then there's only a few certain things that'd make it idle and fuel this badly... Ignore oil temp senders, oil pressure senders, black water temp sender, fan run on temp switch (used to live above and to the left of the FPR on the G60 engine as you look at it from the front), full throttle switch (SNS chips ignore it anyway! ;) ), and fuel pressure switch (pic2), they're not read by the ECU so won't be causing your problem... Check this lot... Timing/ engine condition - If you're sure that the timing's OK, also check the dizzy to make sure that it's OK... It's amazing how screwed up the running can be if the timing's badly out... (including the cam timing both on the cam-belt and on the cam chain between the 2 cams...) Blue temp sensor - This wouldn't do it on it's own, but won't help if there's other things wrong as well this being dead. Idle switch - If it's not telling the ECU it's at idle it'll do all sorts of odd things to the idle speed and mixture, but ONLY at idle... Vacuum hose to the ECU - MUST have a PRE throttle butterfly vacuum/pressure connection and MUST be 100cm long with good connections on each end. Also the internal diameter is important too, so it must be a certain type of hose.... Will run like a sack of sh!t if this is wrong with the fuelling being all over the show Vacuum sytem in general - Leaky or blocked vacuum system/missing pipes will cause the timing to be off, and could cause the ECU pipe to not receive a decent pressure signal via it's vacuum pipe causing all sorts of crap running.... Lambda sensor - will make the car run slightly rich if this is wrong as the ECU will assume Lambda =1 if the sensor is dead and put more fuel into the system than is needed, although this shouldn't be enough to cause the problems you're having.... CO pot - if it's a new one, then leave it alone... it should be around the right value anyway, and shouldn't be sooo rich that it causes this problem... FPR - Yeah, I know it's a new one, but sh!t happens and you may have got a duff one... Replace with your old one to see if it makes it better, worse or no difference... Personally, this smells of bad cam timing to me coupled with a possible dead vacuum connector/leak... :| Hope this helps.

Welcome to the forum... sounds like a nice motor, and definately a low milage example, BUT: :lol: :lol: :lol: sorry, I just love that gif!

It was a nice thought anyway... and that's what's great about this place... :D 8)

are they supplying all the parts?

greegs, 1.8 16V corrados don't have an ECU to disconnect.... ;) :lol:

Picture1 = standard UK 1.8 16V throttle body... there should be a switch underneith it for the idle position which is what that connector is for. Picture2 = fuel pressure switch. This is to make sure that the fuel system stays pressurised when the car is off so that it'll start when you want it to... shouldn't matter if it's not connected and won't make the car run as rich as it sounds like yours is... Picture3 = no idea.... probably something to do with your mad emission laws so we don't have it over here... :|

VERY nice there... 8) Cool cold blue lighting effects too... 8) You've been busy doing that, looks spot on....

MOT = ministry of transport... it's a yearly road worthyness test that all Mainland UK cars have to pass to be allowed to use the road legally... I've never heard of a sniff test... I tend to know when I've killed a head gasket by it throwing oil or water (or both) where it shouldn't be! :oops: :lol:

Nah, he's got spark and the engine's turning over... I'd doubt it's the switch in this case... ;)

RadoAds, you called? ;) Sorry mate, the fuel pipes are on the LEFT hand side of the engine bay as you look at it from the bumper, and 16V's don't have a fuel rail, they have a metering head and shed loads of fuel pipes... ;) (didn't want to disappoint you! ;) :-P ) Firstly, confirm that when the ignition is turned on initially, the fuel pump fires... you should be able to hear it under the rear drivers wheelarch when you turn the key to just before start.... If not, open up the fuel pump relay, and with the ignition on, carefully press the 2 contacts together to see if it runs then... no run = dead pump, wiring or imobiliser fault.... If it runs, try this little lot... ;) On a 1.8 16V, there's 2 pipes which appear at the back of the engine bay and connect onto the metering head. Where they connect there is a little arrow, one in, one out... with the ignition OFF undo the one marked IN and put it into a jam jar... turn on the ignition and you should get fuel spraying into the jamjar... if not the fault is something to do with the filter, feed pipe, pump or electrics to the pump. If you get fuel there, undo the rubber top of the metering head, (bit wot the air goes thru! ;) ) and CAREFULLY lift the flap with your fingers by the nut in the middle... use a strip of cardboard to keep the flap lifted... now pick an injector (any of 'em) and pull it out.... yup, it's stiff, but it WILL just pull straight out. Jam-jar this and turn on the ignition again... Fuel = injectors OK and metering head probably OK, no fuel = either blocked injector or dead metering head... :| It's also worth seeing if there's fuel going to and from the regulator on the side of the engine (block with 2 pipes going to it) again, where they attach to the metering head, there's arrows to indicate the flow... disconnect the feed at the regulator end and do the jamjar test.. reconnect and do the same with the return at the metering head end... 8) If you've got fuel at all those points, your problem is elsewhere... :|

you keep saying that Mike, but the bits that broke on BOTH of my last 2 corrado roofs aren't fitted to the Passat one I now have in my Corrado and I've yet to hear of a Passat roof which has broken like a Corrado one... :?

Phew, it wasn't just me that had that thought as soon as they saw the pic then! ;) :D

You all should have seen it when he drove into the carpark... Front end almost scraping, arse end up in the sky! :D :lol: I wondered WTF he was thinking doing that to a Corrado until I realised it was on airbags... 8) :roll: :lol:

1993-96 (K to M IIRC) 8) It's the one WITH a grill on the front... ;)

Black and silver number plates are only legal on cars registered before August 1972... (L plate or before) as gibber_2k, says, £1000 fine if they're in an arsey mood when you get caught... :? :(

oops... sorry... forgot about this thread... :oops: I'll do a write up tonight once I've done the clutch in my Golf, so it'll be around 10:30... got my boss here today for my appraisal... :roll: should be fun, how the hell can someone who's been here for under 3 months and only visited this site 3 times appraise someone who's been here every day for 3.5 years! :| :roll:

8) yup that sounds like a "Snap on" branded version of an EZ out... 8) Glad that you've got it sorted mate.... it's always nice when you can find a garage with good tools and the knowledge and experience to use 'em properly and for a reasonable cost! :D 8) VAG sells a nice metal (made by Hazet) plug lead removal tool which is supposed to be very good... Hazet Part No. T10029 You may also find that the plastic one is in the spare wheel instead of being clipped onto the bonnet stay... ;)

interested in this myself as I've just started to get some noise myself and it's very irritating to me.... (most people can't hear it :roll: )

sorry, 45power'd, that wasn't my intention... Your charger should still be within warantee if it's only got 5K on it since it was done, I was just thinking that for the few quid postage while the charger wasn't on the car it'd be worth sending it to be inspected... 8) If you are still worried about your charger, send Darren a personal message (username G-Man) and ask him about turnaround times and the like... he's approachable and friendly (although he IS a nutter too boot! ;) :mrgreen: ) and won't mind.... 8) You are right that charge coolers are more efficient than intercoolers size on size, but any charge cooler you can fit into a Corrado enginebay will not be able to compete with the Golf/Rallye intercooler 'cos it's sodding enormous! 8) :lol:

Well, in my case, I'd just spent over £1000 on the gearbox, so I wanted it to look a little nicer seeing as the casing has done over 250,000 miles and was a little grubby! :roll:

8) 8) 8) Another one added to the list of dodgy starter switch faults then.... :D

or brush on engine laquer like I used on mine...

A mate of mine has just set up http://www.oldskooldubs.net/ Forum, features and galleries of all sorts of dubs... Most of the framework's there now including the forum, so if you've got other Dubs as well as your 'rado, get on over there and join in the fun... 8) The rest will be added over time as well as a few nice things that may not have been seen before! 8) :D