Henny

yup... I'm stupidly busy at work today, but I'll do you a quick how to when I get home... 8)

yup, my brake spanners are all from Halfords as their new PRO tools range is excellent.. 8)

no problems... 8)

corner weighting is basically where they stick 4 sets of scales under the wheels of the car, and adjust the coil over suspension so that a specific percentage of the weight is on each wheel.... Normally on a front wheel drive car, you have a 50/50 split side to side and around 55/45 front to rear.... this is done WITH the driver in the car to ensure that you have a perfect balance set into your suspension while you are driving... 8) You can REALLY feel the difference in the handling once this has been done.. 8)

OK, I'll bite... WTF? you're obviously well clued up 'cos Darren knows you by name, but I've not heard about "carter vent problems" before and you've got me interested straight away... 8) Wot's one of them then? :oops: :lol: Welcome to the forum, you sound like you could well be a very valuable addition! 8)

Oettinger is to VW what AMG is to Mercedes... 8) The Oettinger Corrado 16V was over-boared to 2.0, flowed, ported and generally played with to give around 170bhp! 8) VERY cool at the time as this was before the G60 was released over here! 8) They tended to have a nasty colour coded single central bar front grille and some had a nicer interior, but other than that, there wasn't a lot of difference apart from the engine and a few badges and stickers in the enginebay.... :| Someone here needs to go and have a look around this car before it disappears again... :? It's an Oettinger one that someone has managed to screw up the advert for.... :roll: Mate of mine's brother was going to have a look at it before he decided on something else... :|

I've recently bled mine with no problems with nothing but a mate pushing/pulling the pedal, a jam jar and an 11mm brake spanner... ;) :lol: You only need to get all of the fluid out if you're doing a full change... I've just found it easier to pump all the fluid out of one place and then you KNOW you've got air in the system from the reservoir onwards, so when the air has all cleared you're definately on new fluid.... ;) 8) The problem with re-filling as you go around is you never know where's got new fluid and where's still got old fluid in the system Tools list is simple: 11mm brake spanner (has all but one side on it - 5 in total) to ensure you don't strip the head on any brake nipples ;) Jam jar (to catch waste fluid) Thin clear hose with rubber hose ends to put over the nipples (so you can see the bubbles/lack of 'em) Mate to pull and push clutch pedal and push/release brake pedal... 8)

I do it in this order: (no particular reason, just the way I've always done it... :| ) Bleed out the front (either side) until no more fuid comes out (ie you've emptied the reservoir) Bleed out the clutch slave (same again) - you'll need 2 people for this one as the clutch won't bleed on a self bleeder kit for some odd reason... :roll: With ignition on and topping up reservoir as needed: Fill reservoir and bleed clutch until no more air Bleed fronts Bleed rears Re-bleed fronts Bleed master cylinder if you're gonna change it all, go for DOT5.1 fluid... 1 litre should do you with some left over for spare... 8)

*cough* It's Henny *cough* :roll: Depends on the milage... 3 years is getting close to 50K miles if it's been used for average milage use... Personally I'd get it inspected anyway just for peace of mind... There's some not so good stories about the work Jabba's been doing to G60s recently that made me have mine inspected less than a year after getting mine stage 4'd by them.... All I'll say is that I'm glad I did get it seen to again! ;) :?

get the charger inspected ASAP... if it's 13 years since it was last inspected, you may find yourself with a large bill for a new charger if you keep on hammering it and taking it up to redline... :crazyeyes: It sounds to me very much like the "kicking out of gear" is you hitting the rev limiter... this is REALLY not a good idea... the extra stresses that this puts on the engine can make all sorts of nasty (and usually expensive!) things happen... Have a word with someone like G-man (Darren) about your charger, I'm sure he'll be able to help you out... ;) Welcome to the forum! 8)

which engine have you got? That makes a HUGE difference on the time and costs... :roll: For reference, I've just done the head on my G60 (again, long story as to why) but in all, it's cost about £130 + £25 machining costs to get the head back onto the car (I actually spent £50 on machining 'cos I needed something else done too ;) ) I did all the work myself and it took me 2 evenings... one to strip it all apart, and one to put it all back together again... ALL parts are genuine VW (including coolant.... :roll: - don't ask! ) I have no idea how much parts are in America compared with over here though... :?

yup, perfect... 8) :D someone with a similar one will probably be along shortly to help.... 8)

They're only £20 new from VAG... :? Although, we are talking about Ebay, so it could go for 100's... :roll: :mrgreen:

sounds like you could do with a good guide on how to change a switch... ;) Ooh, look... HERE'S one I prepared earlier... ;) :lol: 8)

Both windows aren't supposed to be one touch up... only the driver's one, although this may vary on year as IIRC some of the later ones don't have one touch up at all... ;) Check all of the fuses, the fuse location varies too depending on year and engine spec... (which you haven't mentioned and always makes life more difficult for others trying to help :wink: )

8) :lol:

lots... golf, passat, jetta, for starters (pun intended) 8)

The X relay is what ACTUALLY powers all of the non engine ignition circuits, not the switch... the switch turns the relay on and does indeed turn it off during cranking to ensure the starter and engine get maximum power from the battery... 8) I'm not sure which relay it is, but it's on the main fusebox relay panel... put your hand on each relay in turn (with everything switched off) and turn the ignition on to see if it clicks or not... The X relay will click as you turn on and off the ignition... it'll have some pretty major thick pins on it once you do find it... 8) I've not heard of one failing on a Corrado before and I'd say this sounds much more like an ignition switch fault as these can play havok with your electrics if it goes faulty... : Ignition switches are cheap (£20) and can be fitted in around 30 mins...|

OK, idle problems on G60 which run but poorly tend to be from one of 4 common faults.. check these and see what happens. 1) Vacuum pipe between ECU and the top nipple on the back of the throttle body. This needs to be EXACTLY 100cm long and have a good fitting at either end to seal it properly... this will give all sorts of nasty running and idling problems if it's wrong, torn, leaky or just generally crap... 2) Blue temp sender in the water flange on the front of the hose. This tells the ECU what temp the coolant is at. If it's broken, then the car will either run on choke all the time, or will never run on choke.. either way, it'll result in naff idle and flat spots... 3) Dead lambda sensor... this lives at the start of the cat pipe, the wiring is on the left hand side rear engine mount as you look from the front of the car... when this dies, you're car will feel flat and DRINK fuel... idle will also become lumpy due to over-fuelling... 4) air leak... If you have a leak in one of your boost pipes, intercooler or vacuum hoses, the ECU won't be getting reasonable signals and the engine won't run properly... Check these 4 and let us know how you get on... 8)

there's a hidden screw behind the speaker trim... ;)

yeah, you can strip off all of the belts (apart from the cam belt! :roll: :lol:) and run it for a few minutes with no problems.... just be aware that you'll have little to no cooling as the belts drive the water pump too, so keep a VERY close eye on the engine to make sure you don't cook it! :|

Corrado's have 4 or 5 bulbs on the back of the clocks.... 3 along the top which light up the 3 faces, and then 1 behind each LCD See HERE for more details including part numbers and possible upgrades ;) 8)

have you changed the engine mounts? When does it bang? all the time, just on accelleration/ under braking? Some more details of when the banging occurs will help us help you... 8)

The oil pressure switches DO fail after a while... if you think about what the switch actually is, you'll understand why they fail.... The switch is basically a small rubber diaphragm with a spring above it and the electrical contacts above that... The oil acts on the rubber diaphragm and eventually rots a hole through it causing the switch to fail... They are dirt cheap (around £7 IIRC) from VAG and are a 30 second job to swap over... If you're having ANY oil warning problems, first point of call (after checking you've actually still got oil in the engine! :roll: ) is to check the wires, and then change the switches for new ones... if you still get the warning problems, then it's time to dig deeper, both into the engine/wiring and your pockets! :| :lol: Good luck! 8)

right, lets start with the basics... Have you got fuel coming out of the injectors? Have you got a spark on the plugs? You say it won't turn over, then you say it turns over a few turns and then stops... which is it? Can you bump start it? Have you tried? What EXACTLY happens when you turn the key to ignition? do the ignition lights all come on as normal? What then happens when you turn the key to start? Which engine have you got? If you give us some more detail, people may be able to help, without the details there's not a hope in hell of sorting the problem.... :|