Henny

it doesn't sag, the slam panel is bent where some cow in a 4x4 reversed into me and then buggered off without stopping leaving me with a £500+ repair bill.... :mad: my new slam panel is sat in my garage awaiting spraying and re-fitting... 8)

just to add on this one about the MFA.... Dodgy digits on the LCD just means a bad contact onto the circuitboard from the screen... usually easy to cure by simply removing it, cleaning up the contacts and screwing it back on again... This can be caused by someone not using the correct bulb when one blows which is too high wattage which overheats the plastic frame the LSD sits in and loosens the contact onto the circuit board... The chip which has the milage on it is actually nowhere near the LSD screen, so the faults if clocked are software, not hardware like this one... Clocked MFA displays normally either don't work properly (IE, don't cycle through the settings) show strange results or reset at random times... Hope this clears this up a little... 8)

Hello! Welcome to the Forum... 8)

was the engine running at the time? White smoke from the left hand side of the inlet manifold (as you look at it from the front of the car) is often fuel leaking onto a hot exhaust on a G60... The rubber pipe which runs between the fuel rail and the main fuel line, or the fuel pressure regulator and the other fuel line, is a sod for splitting at the end and causing a slight leak. When this fuel hits the manifold, it evaporates in a cloud of white smoke! :? :roll: Check the 2 fuel pipes on that side of the engine to make sure they're OK... 8)

yup, that's the equation dr_mat (although it's sometimes said to be 5252rpm :? ) What you ideally want is a nice steady high torque figure from idle all the way upto redline... none of this pratting around with gaining torque through the revs, or sudden jumps in torque as V-TEC kicks in etc etc etc... just a constant wave of torque.... 8) BHP doesn't really give you a reasonable idea of what an engine is capable of... An electric motor as used on a train produces almost NO torque at 5250 rpm so has a stupidly low BHP figure at that point... however, at almost 0 rpm, the torque it can produce is HUGE but this also gives a very low BHP figure... If your car can out pull an unladen train, I'm not gonna mess with it! ;) :lol: Even if you had torque and BHP graphs for 2 engines, you still wouldn't know which was fastest on a road unless you added a time line in there too to show the accelleration... I was sooo suprised how much faster my car felt before I got the rolling road setup compared with how it was originally, the reason behind this was the difference in speed it goes up through the revs. It was actually running quite badly until the chip was written, and on the way home I just couldn't stop laughing! :D 8) the acceleration through the revs is just a revalation compared to how it was before! :D Gearing also has a huge amount to do the way a car drive (as Phat will preach to anyone who will listen, and rightly so! ;) ) The altered ratios in my car mean that the acceleration comes as a constant wave in each gear, and you hit the next gear smack bang in the peak torque range and off you go again! :D I can't wait to see what she'll do on a set of rollers, track and strip... should give some of you lot some idea as to how things don't always equal out with big BHP numbers... ;) It's all a series of compromises which you need to get right to make sure that you get the maximum torque, BHP and acceleration out of your engine with a touch of reliability thrown in too! ;) :D

The Reiger ABS one comes with 2 long double sided foam pads (I have no idea what they're for, they're about 1" square and 2 foot long :? ) a load of screws, rivets and a tube of sikaflex... oh, and a pink booklet which are instructions in German... :roll: It also came with enough mesh to fill the 3 front holes, although I have yet to fit this 'cos I decided I'd do it AFTER getting it painted... ;) The way that you fit the indicators and fogs is identical to the original... you simply slide off the original captive self tapping screw threads and put 'em onto your new bumper... 8) I do have later lights though, but I'm pretty sure that the earlier ones would fit in exactly the same way as standard... :D I've got mine secured with 4 rivets behind each fog/indicator cluster straight into the original ironwork and then 3 screws in each wheel arch... it's secure enough that when I first put it on the rolling road to get the car set up, it took the weight of the whole front of the car 'cos it grounded out with no problems at all! :crazyeyes: :lol: 8) If I decide to keep it on the car, I'll use the sikaflex to seal along the back of the ironwork onto the plastic bumper once the plastic's been painted to ensure it doesn't get pulled off by accident... 8) Took me about 30 mins to fit it properly with it all lined up nicely... 8) :D Oh, and it also doesn't crack like fibreglass ones do when you ground it, or nudge curbs when parking... ;) :oops:

Nah, you're thinking of the Subaru in "The Cannonball run" ;) :D :lol: (the one with the night vision and the rocket engine in the back! ;) )

I use the proper Bosch Platinum tipped plugs in my G60 and haven't had to change a set yet... 8) Listed as good for upto 60K miles, although they are rather pricey! :?

me three! :) :D 8)

WOAH! :crazyeyes: All the details I'd seen before on that car were that it was just a turbo'd Micra... :? That's a well cool car then, and I happily stand corrected... 8)

1.8 16Vs CAN'T run a cat due to having no Lambda sensor... if you stuck a cat on it, it'd be knackered in a few miles of driving! :?

if you've already put in a new Dizzy, it could well be a fuelling issue caused by an aging fuel pump... :|

like a long weight, can of tartain paint, a tub of Engine coolant for a 1972 VW Beetle, etc etc etc?!? ;) :lol: :D Yeah, Molybdenim always sounds odd... most people say Moly grease... :)

..what LowG says above is spot on and the reason I was happy to spend the extra money on a VW Golf G60 intercooler, rather than having to arse around trying to get pipework made up to the correct sizes, get an intercooler the right spec, get the mounts made up etc etc etc... PLUS (and this is the biggie that NO-ONE else has mentioned yet :roll: ) the Golf G60 intercooler is BLOODY WELL MADE! :D I'd bet if you got a similar aftermarket one tested for efficiency the Golf G60 one would kill it both in terms of flow and of cooling efficiency... Afterall, this is basically a VW motorsport intercooler with smaller inlet/outlet pipes so it's had some amount of development work done on it to ensure that it's both reliable and good at it's job... 8) Ker-plink, my tuppence worth...

And they're great quality too... (guess who's got a full JP exhaust on 2 of his cars! ;) )

yeah, I've got one on my car... It's really easy to fit and only needs 2 small bits of casting cutting off the forward face of the endtanks so that the headlamps don't catch on it to make it fit into a Corrado... 8) That one in the advert you linked to comes with all the pipes you'd need so it would be a plug and play style fitment... :) Can't say how much difference it makes as I modded so much on my car at the same time, but I'd say that it should make a difference on a longish run 'cos the standard Corrado intercooler is tiny and gets heat soaked very quickly... :|

yeah, I tried that too anthonyg, it works really well on the late clocks, but won't work on the earlier white needled clocks which are solid plastic... :? I'm trying to come up with a "one shot" solution which will work for all Corrados... 8)

You've knocked the inner CV joint and taken it past it's normal operating angle, so the balls have fallen out.... :roll: As long as you've got all the balls, and they're clean and not pitted, then you should be able to re-assemble it with no problems... 8) Make sure you use plenty of Molybdenim grease when you put it back together though... :)

Yup... some cars even have an inhibitor which won't allow the car to start unless the clutch pedal is pressed... :?

as dazzyvr6 says, it's a type of glue... you can get it from Halfords.... It's dead easy to work and is stupidly strong when set, it'll sort that out with no problems whatsoever... 8)

D'Oh! Oh, OK, I'll get some before and after shots when I get it done tomorrow... 8)

erm, it LOOKS identical from the outside of the engine... photos wouldn't really show you much... :? Have a look through the rest of this thread, as there's pictures of the build up in here and a good one of the block on the engine stand as I'd just mounted it... 8) Rallye blocks are actually getting quite easy to get hold of as a lot of Rallyes are getting to the point of needing a rebuild and lots of the owners are just dropping in 20VT engines instead... :roll:

ah, but technically the car is "G60 supercharged"... it's not a "supercharged G60" as the G60 IS the supercharger so that's like saying that the car has a supercharged supercharger... ;) :lol: [/pedant]

UPDATE: To anyone who is thinking about fitting together a Rallye Block and a G60 head (1H block with a head off a PG engine) You WILL have to get it machined slightly... where the head bolt washers sit isn't big enough on the PG head as standard which means that as you torque up the head bolts, you'll chip off slight amounts of the aluminium around the seats which will get in under the washer... over time, the tension in the bolts will squash this swarf and let the tension off on the head bolts which will result in the head gasket blowing... This has been positively diagnosed as the cause of my coolant over-pressuring problems, and the reason that the headgasket has gone by a pro mechanic who is my best mate and has just confirmed it with me... :| Still, at least I know that with a little bit of machining I can get it spot on agian and then put her back together safe in the knowledge that it's right.... ;) :lol: 8)

that's a nice neat way of formatting the text Jim, I had to edit your post to see how you'd done that... ;) :lol: 8)