Henny

oooh, that's not good... :? any damage to the rest of the car? I've not had that happen before, but I've come close on my old MKI golf when the bonnet skin came off the frame at about 75.... it cleared the car completely, and fortunately it was late at night and there was nothing else on the road... :| Hope you can get it sorted out soon and with as little cost and hassle as possible RadoAds.... 8)

yeah, very nice pic, M15 VW... 8) If you notice, 20Vee_t (Amy) has her photo just a couple before you... 8)

try Midland wheel supplies (click here) I got my 10mm longer bolts from them... For locking wheel bolts, go into halfords and find a normal set for a Corrado, it'll have the correct normal bolt size written on it, then go through the other sets to find a set the same, but in the length you need... ;) That's how I did it anyway... 8)

The main reasons that this thread has stalled for a while is that Andi has moved house recently and has been a bit busy with that and also that we were trying to work out a viable solution for the invisible needles problem... Having the dials back-lit is very nice, but is sod all use if you can't see the needle to work out where it's pointing! ;) :roll: On a new car, the needles are also back lit so you can see them... you can't do this on a Corrado... :? I'm happy with the UV led method of doing this, (shown earlier in this thread) so I'll be taking a spare set of clocks which I've rigged up with the UV leds and some painted early needles to the shows with camp-overs I'll be going to so other people can see what they think to them and make sure that they are happy too... 8) The next one I'm staying over at is the 3rd and 4th July at Malvern for BVF, so come and find me when it's dark and I'll show you mine! ;) :lol: If the general consensus of the people who see it is that this is viable, I'll put a full "how to" up including part numbers and costs for the LEDs and circuit and we'll get this group buy rolling again... 8) Sound reasonable? 8)

they are exactly the same to fit, except the brake pipe in on a banjo bolt rather then theaded staight into the caliper, so you need to change the flexy pipe at the same time to take account of that... Other than that, it's identical to do... 8) Same pads, same number of bolts, the lot.. 8) :D

8) The only thing is, the MOT means absolutely squat to an insurance assessor when they come out to look at your car after an accident... trust me on this one, they can worm their way out of any claim if there's ANYTHING that's not within the letter of the law, or your declared modifications... :?

Gotta point it out though Dubster... if you remove the side repeaters (or have tyre tread exposed outside of the wheel arches) your car isn't legal and is, in fact, in breach of your insurance policy.... :? No 2 ways about that, if your insurance company gets arsey after an accident, and you have a mod which makes the car illegal, you can kiss your claim goodbye, your fault or not... :? Good point about the other indicators, though, there's loads out there, in lots of different colours and shapes too... 8)

And also a way to invalidate your insurance and ensure that your car is not legal and may fail an MOT... :roll: :?

That's a guess, but it's probably not far off what they'll charge... :roll: ;) :lol:

there's a car here somewhere... ;) 8)

nah, they've all got the same part number so are all about £30 from the stealers.... :roll: Get a set from Halfords in a different colour... they'll cost you about £15 and you can choose the colour! ;) :D

hear hear.... 8) (yes, I've got MKIV rears on mine now, and they took an extra 2 minutes to fit compared with the usual MKII or MKIII replacements... 8) )

yup, as Kev says, Convertable = fat get compared with tin top... ;) :lol:

I could be wrong, but they appear to be MKII Golf struts with inserts... :? (euro lists 'em as Bilsten items for MKII Golf anyway... ) Looks like someone may have swapped a set of suspension over at some point.... :?

Woah! not heard that one before... :? sounds like fun... :| I thought that's what the Thermal fuse was there to prevent? one to add to my list of odd fan problems then... 8)

For the £25 and 3/4 of an hour it'll take you... change the ignition switch... 8) Instructions HERE 8) It's also worth checking the -ve battery clamp and the main earth strap (they're one piece ;) ) The strap runs down the back of the battery, onto the chassis via a clamp, and then onto the front top gearbox to engine bolt... If this looks green or has a white fluff on it, it's in need of replacement 'cos the copper has oxidised and is causing a high resistance on your electrical circuits which will be exaggerated when the engine is warm... :|

yup, exactly the same as I did Woody... 8) I've now got a BRAND new one in and it's lovely and quiet now... 8) :D

YAY! Glad that you got it sorted... 8)

I can't wait to come across one that wants to play with my G60... :D :lol: ;) Or my MKI when that's done for that matter! ;)

Have a look HERE There's a few people here who have Vag-com systems who are happy to meet up with other forum members and scan their cars ecus for them to find any fault codes... 8)

The Golf's not been a real "HOT hatch" since the MKII... (and that was only saved by the 16V and G60 versions...) It's still trading on the GTI name which was made by the MKI (and then MKI)I version 25 years ago! :? Too lardy, too soft and too rounded... :pukeright: Just another anonymous eurobox like nearly every other car in it's class on sale today... You see a MKI or MKII Golf in a carpark and it stands out as a Golf, you see one of these, and either ignore it 'cos it's the same as all the other new cars in the carpark, or have to have a look at it to work out what it is... :? :roll: I'd still lay odds on an original MKI Golf GTI 1800 being a closer BHP/Tonne ratio than most would believe to new 255BHP R32... LOTS of power? Yeah, but by God, it's a fat git! ;) :lol: Wonder if Topgear'd take a MKI up against the new R32 around their track... THAT I'd want to watch... I'd bet there wouldn't be a lot in it... ;) :)

Welcome to the forum... 8) I'm not a VR6 expert (anything but having never had one or worked on one!) but I'd say your first port of call should be to get the car hooked up to a VAG-Com system (fault diagnostics) to work out why it's not running quite right... Having read every thread on this forum, I know that there are quite a few little sensors on the VR engine which can fail and cause a slight roughness in the running, and a couple which will knock a good 20 to 30 BHP off while still running OK... :? I'm sure that KevHaywire will be along shortly, as in the recent past, he's had just about everything re-done on his VR and knows them pretty well now... 8)

this really does sound like an immobiliser fault to me.... :? At this stage, having checked all of the fuses and box as you have, I'd be extremely tempted to get the alarm/imobiliser removed by an auto electrician to be mega sure that it's not that which is causing you hassles...

lol! Glad you've got it running OK then... :D 8) Most of us have made mistakes like that in the past... some much more embarrasing than that one! ;) :lol:

both Eurocarparts and GSF do the universal Lambda which will fit the Corrado... The Lambda itself live just behind the engine bay on top of either the front of the cat or the cat-bypass pipe... 8)