Henny

mine fits into both of those VR6, and I get so many flames outta the back of mine at the moment, it's embarrasing... :? :oops: I soooo can't wait for this re-chip so that she stops farting flames all the time... :roll:

ooh, by the look of that front bumper, that used to be a pearl green 'rado... 8) I hope the person who bodged that car got hurt doing it... ;) :evil: :lol: Looking better now though... looks like you've got a bit of work ahead though... :? Good luck! 8)

sorry, at work at the moment and actually having to do something for a change... ;) :lol: I've been told that they will, but I've never tried... apparently it's a case of getting the MKIII GTI calipers and carriers and the Corrado G60 disks to do the conversion, but, as I say, I've never tried it, so I can't vouch for it 100%... :?

good question Tom, I was wondering the same... I can see a career change on the cars cards! ;) :lol:

have you got BOTH an after market sandwich plate, AND the original one on there? If you have it'll be VERY tight to get a normal oil filter in there... If you only have one or the other, then it'll be the same as being stock as the 2 oil cooler sandwiches are about the same size give or take a mm or 2... 8)

8) no problems... It lives in the front drivers side of the bumper right down low near the brake cooling duct... it just clips into an aluminium plate in the bumper's lower grill (you'll see it if you look! ;) ) and it looks like a small probe with a double pole connector on top... All I've done is to pull the wiring back up through the chassis leg, and then just plonked it into the airbox through the hole I cut for the new pipe... 8) Cheap (£0.00!) and easy to do too! :D 8)

Rodders? That's a link to a thread in the other forum! :roll:

the seat base (the bit you actually sit on) is a seperate part from the back. To remove it, you need to push the front of the base back and up... it's got a hook at the front which catches into a hole in the mount. if you remove the base, the seat back will then go flat. (and you can put a load of cables under the seat base too! ;) :lol: ) *EDIT* ah, and you'll need to lift the armrest up too to get the seat to fold down properly anyway.... This is all assuming you have a rear seat with an armrest in the middle... if you have a flat rear seat, then I don't know 'cos I've never even seen one, never mind tried to remove one! :?

yup, sounds very much like a dead set of clutch plates to me... Gearbox out job on a Golf... Get a decent LUK clutch kit complete with release bearing and that'll sort it... 8)

the only problem with using the long block option to get it to 2.0 is that it's not particularly suitable to a G60 style engine... :| IMHO, the characteristics of the type of engine are all wrong, so it ends up feeling like you are rushing the engine all the time and it just never feels right TSR's 2.0 conversion uses the van engine as the base for the block, which is also the longer stroke style engine... Have a look in the first couple of pages of my gallery, there's quite a good discussion in there about 2.0 G60's after I decided I was gonna build one... In the end I ended up with 1940cc, as the 2.0 test unit had a fault so JMR wasn't prepared to release an untested engine to the public (ie ME! ;) :lol: ) I'm well happy with the 1940, it's smooth, refined, revvy and torquey as hell.... It's also based around the original PG block (well, mine's not 'cos my block was knackered, but they normally are! ;) ) and hey, what's 26ccs when you think about it?!? ;) :lol: Click on the J-DUB below to get into the gallery... 8)

taking the carbon cannister out of a G60 is almost identical to the way you do it on the VR... at least, that's how I did it! ;) What I then did was to work out where the carbon cannister hole is under the airbox, and then cut a hole in the same place and put a piece of 3" aluminium flexible duct in there which I fed down to the front bumper... This means that just about all of the air going into my airbox comes from behind the huge grill in the RS bumper and is nice and cold (and therefore dense!) I've also moved the outside air temp sensor into the air box so I can keep an eye on the temp of the air going into the supercharger 'cos I always found it a bit useless having an outside temp sensor... It's quite revealing as to how quickly an airbox can get heatsoaked in traffic... ;) :?

Phew, timed it right then... just filled the C up with Optimax on the way home tonight... 82.9 8) Still expensive, but not as bad as I thought it was gonna be... :| Gonna have to get my 1.9tdi MKI golf done! ;) :lol:

...and, as if by magic, the thread appeared in problems.... ;) :lol: give 'em a good clean with a clean rag... odds are you've got a little bit of oil on 'em which is causing 'em to smear... :|

The two dots should be either side of the join on the head where the head meets the rocker cover at the front of the engine. Which way are you pulling the tension onto the belt? this is important as if you are putting the belt on and pulling it in the wrong direction you'll never get it tensioned up properly or get it lined up either... :? The way to do it is to put the belt onto the teeth around the crank pulley, pull it towards the front of the engine (keeping it taught) around the intermediate shaft's pulley (making sure that stays lined up, then up and over the cam (still keeping it all taught) and then flick it over the cam tensioner, and tension it up there while making sure it stays taught over the cam and doesn't slip anywhere.... you should find that doing that by hand you will get about 90degrees of twist on the belt between the cam and the intermediate shaft which is about right... 8) It may take a couple of attempts to do it if you've not done one before, but keep trying, it does all line up... 8) Good luck!

2.0 conversion to what?!? If you're on about the 2.0 G60, Stealth don't do it anymore... :( (I know, I tried hard to get Vince to build me one! ;) )

that's a vacuum reading Jim... 8) (normally in mmHg) When at idle, you should be getting a vacuum reading as the engine isn't using any boost, any that is made is being either sent back to the 'charger or vented to air if you've removed the boost return pipe... as you press the throttle, this should decrease to 0 and swing up the boost side of the gauge, maxing out at around redline with the throttle wide open (known as WOT - Wide Open Throttle) 8)

keep watching folks, mine should look similar to that within the next year! ;) :lol:

MMmmmmm nice.... 8)

on a G60, the brown white is a small, brass, 10mm nut sized, temp sensor which controls the fan run on... Dunno about any of the other cars though... :?

Yay! Glad your car passed OK... 8) The brakes look good... I hope you enjoy 'em... it's a good spec you've got there now to slow you down, are ya gonna do anything to make her quicker?!? ;) :lol: I sometimes wish I hadn't painted my rears, as they are alloy (as yours are) and look pretty cool untouched... 8)

look out for a green wire with a black tracer... that's normally the VW colour code for the oil temp sender wiring... ;) 8)

green with black is the oil temp sensor wire... No ideas on the brown one... has it got a tracer colour on it at all? Can't tell from that pic... :?

:lol: I'd not even thought about the other levels... ;) :oops: :lol:

tell 'em there's some sheep been seen at 10 Downing street that are destined for export over there, and I'm sure you'd get a few there! ;) :lol:

*cough* 16s! *cough!* :roll: :wink: :lol: