Henny

:oops: you don't know the half of it... :wink:

Yup. That's me! 8) (Well Stealth built it for me anyway! ;) ) I had exactly the same thoughts as you about the standard G60 box... 1st and 2nd were always way too short so I had a VR6 input shaft with 1st and 2nd (and reverse!) installed into my G60 box while it was having a re-build and Quaife LSD installed... 8) IIRC the first gear is almost identical to the G60's, but the second is a lot longer so it should mean that I'll hit third slightly higher up in the power band and it should make 0-60 a 2 gear job, and 0-100 a damn site faster... 30-100 speeds should also be much faster which is why I wanted it for getting onto motorways in the morning... ;) It's not particularly cheap (over £1000 + VR6 parts) but I feel it will be worth it once the car is back on the road... 8)

Yeah, that's from memory now, 'cos I've done it 4 times in total on corrados now... :roll: RIght, I'll try that on Saturday when I've got to bolt mine back together again! ;) 8) We're not kidding about the plasters! ;) :? Good luck Welsh G60 8)

Rear quarters ARE bonded, you're more likely to smash 'em than remove 'em.... :?

Right, to get the head off a G60, you need to do this lot... 8) ======================================================================= Set the engine to TDC on cylinder 1 as if you were doing a cambelt. Disconnect the battery and then all of the wiring to the head (ISV, thermo sensor over the fuel inlet, fuel pressure switch, injector rail, water temp senders and oil pressure switch, also the earth strap from the throttle body to the scuttle panel and the earths which bolt onto the side of the head) and move the wires well out of the way... Disconnect and bung up the 2 fuel pipes which connect onto the cambelt end of the fuel rail. Take off the top cam belt cover and slacken off the tensioner, slip the belt off the cam sprocket Take off the ISV and vacuum pipes which connect to the head and inlet manifold, also take off the boost return and intercooler to throttle pipes at this time including the oil breather off the cam cover. Remove the 2 waterpipes from the plastic flange on the front of the head, and the one from the side of the head. Undo the 10mm nut on the flange on the side of the head, and unclip the metal water pipe from the bolt (not as easy as it sounds!) Remove the oil feed pipe for the charger from the side of the head Remove the alternator. To do this you'll have to remove the charger belt and tensioner... I use a pair of large jubilee clips which I open up and wrap along the length of the tensioner and then tighten together to remove the tension... there are methods where you lever against the chassis leg and the tensioner arm, but I've grown to prefer the jubilee method 'cos you're less likely to get hurt! ;) Now for the bracket that holds the alternator onto the head, make sure you don't miss the bolt that goes through the tinware behind the alternator bracket! It'll cause lots of swearing if you do! ;) ========================================================================= You now have a choice... neither option is nice, it just depends how lucky you are feeling... ========================================================================= You can either try and remove the exhaust manifold from the head (tricky and the nuts may just round off) OR you can undo the manifold to downpipe bolts (access is a pain in the ass, but it's the way I've always done it...) Once that's done (and you've had your cuts bandaged up! ;) ) you need to remove the 2 support bars between the cam cover and the inlet manifold and then the cam cover. You now have another choice, you can either take the cam out, or leave it in place... I think in your case, I'd be tempted to leave it in... If you want to remove it though, you need to make sure you slacken the 8 bolts in a set order else you risk breaking the cam, I think you may well have to take the sprocket off the cam before you can get it out of the head too, if you do, make sure you don't loose the woodruff key that is under the sprocket! You'll see that the cam caps are numbered (1,2,3 and 5) make sure you don't get 'em mixed up, or forget which way around they go on! Loosen 1 and 3 first diagonally then when these are just loose, do 2 and 5... once they're all loose, you can just take 'em off... Now you should be able to undo the head bolts and then just lift the head off... 8) Loosen the head bolts in this order working in stages so that you don't just remove 1 then 2 then 3 etc, leave a little tension on them all while you work around the rest of the bolts, and go around the order a couple of times... 8) 1...............7............9.............5................3 4...............6............10...........8................2 Now lift the head off the block, be careful as it's heavy, especially if you've got BOTH manifolds still attached! Your engine bay should now look pretty much the same as the picture below... [Haynes] Re-fitting is the reverse of these instructions, including bolt orders! [/Haynes] ;) :lol: Hope this helps... I don't think I've missed anything off there, but if I have, let me know and I'll edit this to add it in... 8) :!: Take it nice and steady, don't rush and if you feel like you're struggling with undoing anything, soak it in WD40, have a drink and calm down, then have another go at it, you don't want to break anything else... 8) :!:

Ah! The scientific approach! ;) :lol: :roll:

Mine look really yellow even though they're brand new..... but that's 'cos they've got yellow hint bulbs in them which are more effective in Fog! :lol: 8) Even if you rewire them to be driving lights, you'd then have to change the lenses as they've got the wrong beam shape to be driving lights so you'd get pulled over regularly by the police... :roll:

Yup, I'll post up a "how to" when I get home tonight... :)

£400 for a PG engine is definately not a bad price... especially if that's local to you... 8) What comes with it? Head, ancilleries, pipes etc...? They're the bits that add up on the price (trust me, I know! :roll: ) Bear in mind that you may be able to get some money for your PG block, head etc... depending on what comes with the engine your mate has got... ;) Also, don't rule the block out just yet... you may have burnt a valve out/damaged a valve which would also give you no compression... If I were you, I'd take the head off and have a look inside to see what's lurking in there... It's not too bad a job to do, and if you do have to replace the engine anyway, then it's not wasted work... 8) Good luck! (where abouts in Wales are you?) *edit* also check to see how much oil is left in the sump... If it's almost dry, I'd get the charger looked at by someone like Darren to make sure that it's still healthy before you bolt it onto a replacement engine... ;)

Very nice... I'm sure I keep seeing your sherry pearl one around Chorlton every now and then... 8)

Make the pictures smaller! :roll: :lol:

Locking valve caps at that! ;) Well spotted... 8) I've lost count of the amount of time I've spent on that engine/gearbox... Lots should just about cover it.... ;) :lol: 8)

Right then... After getting called into work this weekend just gone, the engine didn't get fitted... :mad: So, I've used my nice insomniac tendancies to get busy and finish the engine over the last couple of nights so it's now just a case of lifting it onto the mounts and putting the bolts in... 8) Unfortunately I need some daylight to do this, :roll: so it'll be fitted into the bay on Saturday morning... 8) Oh, and I got my wheels back from being re-furb'd... All 6 of 'em! :roll: :lol: See what you think so far... 8)

Does that coil the other way around from a normal one? Ie, it starts in the middle and then goes ANTI-Clockwise rather than clockwise on a normal scroll? :? Or am I showing that I've never actually had a proper look inside a charger apart from the photos of mine you sent me Daz?!? :oops:

I'll take a photo of it tomorrow after work seeing as my engine is not in the bay yet! ;)

Cool... 8)

huh? where did the photos go?!? :shock: They were there a minute ago... :? *Edit* - Ah! they're back again... 8) Nice looking cars there... :)

Eh? in the blood = red line zone...

Passat cup holder Passat center sunvisor (clips onto sunroof motor cover and sits above the rear view mirror) 8) Brembo brake conversion Coloured side repeaters Different bee-sting aerial (alloy, shorter etc... ) Dash clock faces (got JPGs of both styles of face now, so you can print your own... I'll post it up when I get home... ;) ) P.S. Moonroof = Glass panel, lets the moonlight in while keeping the cold out... Sunroof = Metal panel, lets the cool breeze in, but keeps the sunlight out... 8)

*Loads printer with sticky back plastic sheets* *clicks "print"...* 8) :lol:

that's a nice straight graph too... 8) I bet she's a lotta fun to drive in any gear! ;) :D

Just be thankful you don't have to torque those sods up and then add the extra 180degrees! My arms were well tired after doing all 10 of them, and I think I may have bent my big ratchet's handle doing them! :shock:

Yup, here's a comparison of the standard Corrado G60 radiator with the Golf G60 intercooler so you get an idea of the size... I've not got any photos of the intercooler fitted yet, 'cos my engine is still in my garage! :roll: :lol: I've got one photo of the intercooler and rad sat on the cross member though.... 8)

Yup, that's where my Golf G60 intercooler lives... 8) That's always been where I would mount an intercooler, so mounting another radiator for a charge cooler system in that location's not a bad idea either... 8)

Errrm... I've now got a Rallye block (1H) instead of my dead Corrado G60 block (PG) and I can confirm that the head bolts are COMPLETELY different.... The 1H Block had the uprated bolts (M12) to take the extra demands that rallying was going to throw at the car and it also had very slightly different water and oil jackets to the PG block... (PG had M10 Bolts) I've just found this out the hard way after thinking I'd stripped the threads when I was trying to use the PG headbolts then realising that they should have been 1H bolts... :roll: The intercooler on the Rallye was also LOTS bigger than the Corrado's pants shoebox one, and had larger diameter inlet and outlet pipes, although the Golf G60 had the same sized intercooler core as the Rallye, but the same size inlet/outlet pipes as the Corrado... Guess who's also now got a Golf G60 intercooler on his Corrado! ;) :lol: 8) Comparative pic of bolts attached... 8)