Henny

get someone to check your rear axle bushes... this is what my first 'rado started to do just before I lost it and ended up in a field writing her off! Probable cause - Diesel on the road and dodgy rear bushes... :? I'm not saying that this is what happened with you tonight, I'm just saying that if your car is starting to get a touch more tail happy than normal, it's better to know that it's the roads and not a problem with your car... I was VERY lucky when I wrote my first C off...... 4 people died on the same corner within the next 3 months... :|

yeah, I've got a cobra laser/radar detector on the top of the dash, and I'm looking at upgrading it (sod it, I've upgraded nearly everything else in the car! :roll: ) and this is one of the things I was looking at... 8)

apparently they take a little bit of "convincing" to fit... ;)

mmmm.... shiney...... 8) Wish mine was as nice at the moment... ;)

Welcome to the forum! I've seen Road pilots before (and have considered buying one! ;) ) and that's where I'd have mounted mine too... 8)

If it appears to be superglued, go to the local "beauty" shop and buy some Acetone based nail-varnish remover... just happens to be the same solvent as for superglue.... 8) Don't ask how I know that... it wasn't pretty and also wasn't clever.... And it wasn't anything to do with me! :lol:

Cool, we like to bring things back from the dead... just look at my car! ;) :roll: :lol: yup, except for maybe a coil spring to put at the bottom (you could even use the one off your old throttle body) to give the peddle a bit more feel, that's it.... 8) yup, spot on.... the switches need to do EXACTLY what they do on your car at the moment... 8) you just plug it back in where it came from! ;) The air box shouldn't be affected at all, the only thing you are changing is the throttle body itself... The ONLY 2 bits of this mod that you may have to play with are the way that the throttle cable attaches to the throttle, the return spring on the throttle (to make it a bit stiffer so it's not as light) and the brackets for the throttle switches... 8) Even if you have to do all 3 of these, it's not a large amount of work to do 'em all anyway! 8) It really is an easy mod... the only thing you may find is that you have one extra vacuum take of pipe on the throttle body... simply blank this off with either a blanking part that you should be able to get from any motorfactors, or put a pipe on it with a screw in the end to block it... 8)

there's 2 KR inlet manifolds... (KR being 1.8 16v engines) One was 4 straight tubes across the top of the head, the other was 4 tubes that were fat at the front, narrowed, then fattened out again just before they hit the bit with "VW DOHC16V" written on it... ;) you should be able to tell the difference from that description... 8) They were fitted to different cars, although I have no idea which car got which manifold... Golf 16Vs got both and it depends on age... Corrados (I think) all got the straight ones (better low end torque to deal with the extra weight, but less upper - hence lower BHP) All I know is that my KR 16V (H plate) Corrado had the straight (thinner!) manifold on it, and I don't know what difference a bigger diameter one would make as I wrote the car off before I got chance to try it... :roll: :oops:

The difference between the 2 engines was purely the inlet manifold.... The larger (late Golf) diameter one gave better up end torque and power, whereas the thinner (Corrado) gave better low down torque... (I can't remember the diameters, I only got back from the pub an hour ago! :oops: ) 88K on a KR engine is sod all.... even if it was hammered when young...... the worst it will need is lower Big end bearings which you can happily do by just dropping the sump off while it's still in the car... 8) I did my 120K KR 16V about 2 months before I wrote it off and it was REALLY easy to do and made a hell of a difference... 8) Have a search around on here and there are a few tips for tuning the KR engines that will give you some good power increases for not much cash... 8) Hope this helps... 8)

yeah, I'd back Dubster82 on this one.... I've got 3 sets of Corrado clocks in various numbers of parts (see group buy on backlit dials for more details! ;) ) and I've had to do that cure several times! ;)

well I may have the roof sorted for you... ;) I'll find out this weekend if stealth haven't finished my gearbox.... 8) hmmmmmmmm V-Werks... has a certain ring to it doesn't it?!? ;)

Have you broken it again then Kev? Or just trying out a new modification?!? ;) :roll: I am Sooooooooooo glad the G60 only has 8 valves and a single belt driven cam! ;) :lol:

Dunno what you mean... Looks OK to me... :wink: :oops: :lol:

It's a subliminal hint! ;) I've now got 2 sets of white needled G60 clocks and a set of red needled VR6 clocks... as well as about 5 different sets from MKI and MKII golfs.... :roll: I really do need to get out more... :roll: :oops: :lol:

:roll: not good... :?

As soon as my 'rado's back in one piece, the only thing I'll be doing to any Corrados will be to drive mine! I'll probably be talked into doing some though, knowing what I'm like! :roll: I'm rather partial to Becks or Kronenbourg bottled beer, Bombay Saphire Gin and cash is always nice to have if you're trying to influence me! ;) :lol: I do have a couple of new photos at home for those people who want to keep their original white needles but want these gauges... I used an UV security marker (about £1.50) to go over the white parts of the needle.... It glows up really nicely in a whiteish blue colour under the UV LEDs and is very effective... 8) I'll post 'em later tonight if I get chance... 8)

normal causes are, as you say, connecting the blue/white wire to the stereo, dead fuse, lack of lubrication on the mechanism or just a broken/disconected wire somewhere... 8) Occasionally you do find some where the control box has broken or, if the mechanism's not been lube'd up, the motor sometimes does burn out... These parts are stupidly expensive brand new from VAG, but can be picked up cheap from places like our for sale section... 8) Mine kept blowing the fuse, so I stripped it all apart, cleaned and lube'd it all up with white grease and put it all back together... it's been fine since... 8)

had mine 18 months... 7 of which it's been off the road... :roll: You really don't want to know what I've spent on it upto now... :? :roll: My 16V was great when I had that though... in the 2.5 years I had it, I spent a total of £1900 on servicing, tyres and exhaust parts and had done over 32K miles in it... 5.9p per mile isn't bad running costs I think... 8)

yup, as Dazzy says, not a problem at all... 8)

that's a good question, and one I don't actually know the answer to... :? I've heard people talk / seen things written about it on Corrados, but I've never actually tested to see if mine has or not... :roll: One to check at the weekend I think... ;)

Very good point... 8)

8) no problems... hope it all goes back together nicely once you get that stud out....8) :D

I've had 2... an H plate 1.8 KR and my current J-DUB G60... 8) It's a shed load easier to remove the gearbox with the engine then take the box off the engine when it's not in the cramped engine bay... You can drop the lot out as you describe, but it needs a 2 post lift and isn't easy to do at home without one... :? It's much easier to take the front off and pull the engine straight out... I have a MKI as well which the front isn't removable on... to get the engine outta that you need to drop the engine onto the floor and then lift the car off the engine! :shock: Not fun to do at home! :roll: :lol:

:lol: :lol: that's pretty much as disconnected from the welder as you can get... I think that you may be OK with it like that! ;) 8) :lol: I usually use 2nd gear... Reverse is such a low gear that you stand more chance of actually breaking something else and getting the engine to turn! :| Not what you need! ;)

the way to do it is to unbolt the bumper, slam panel, front cross members, and drive shafts. The engine can then be lifted off the rear engine mounts and pulled straight out of the car complete with gearbox... 8) Obviously you need to undo the wiring and coolant/fuel pipes as well as remove the lights, grille etc etc etc, but that's the basics to it anyway... ;) I'd never taken an engine out of a C before and I still managed to take it out and strip the engine to a bare block on my own in about 8 hours 8)