Philly-R6

There are two coolant temperature sensors - one for the gauge in the dash and one for the ECU. If you have VCDS see if you can see what temperature is being reported to the ECU? if they are similar the temperature is probably correct.

Can you add me to the list please?

They should all be the same. Have a look at a2resource.com:Central Electric 2 (a2resource.com)

No, there is no self test feature for the brake system (the ABS does a self test). The brake system lamp on the dash is probably illuminated because the handbrake is applied. With the handbrake off (and brake fluid in the reservoir), the brake warning lamp in the dash is 'off' as you turn the key. The water and oil temperature lamps flash and the alternator light is 'on' until the engine is started. You could also place a paper clip (or a bit of wire) across the pins of the reservoir connector and check the lamp illuminates. Same with the handbrake connector...

I'm not sure that disconnecting the connector from the brake fluid reservoir cap is the same test. With the float inside the reservoir pushing up against the cap, the "switch" in the cap is open circuit. Take the cap off completely and the float drops down the cap switch is closed. If you have a multi-meter, check the cap does switch. There is a button on the top of the cap to test it - but you need long arms or two people... On the base of the handbrake, there is a switch which has either fallen off (simply clips on) or broken. Again use a multi-meter to check the switch.

Hmm interesting. What is the box under the seat? It looks aftermarket as it isn't part of the normal wiring looms...

So you can visualise it, the parts page is: 1995 Volkswagen Corrado Europe market: Body Window glasses (oemepc.com) You can see the positioning wedges as item 16. The ebay item gets you items 11, 12, 13, and 14. I think the part number you supplied is item 14 here: 1995 Volkswagen Corrado Europe market: Body Radiator grille air guide grille (oemepc.com) I've only ever seen these broken, so don't really know how these fit to the three trim parts...

Further to Cressa's post, you can see the part on oemepc (item #9 - 1H0129833): 1991 Volkswagen Corrado Europe market: Engine Air filter 1.8ltr. 4-cylinder: PG (oemepc.com)

Hi and welcome! The window rattle - you are on to the right chap. Sit tight and I'm sure he will get back to you. The exhaust would probably just need adjusting to clear the rear beam properly. Something you might be able to do on your back with the car in the air (on axle stands - with a mate?). Loosen the exhaust clamps and twist the section so the loop bit goes higher... Can't help you with the gear knob, but see if someone chimes in here, or create a post in the Wanted section? What year and colour is your G60? Phil

Pins and colours are on wikipedia: Connectors for car audio - Wikipedia. Don't forget Constant and Accessory power are the wrong way round in the 'rado radio wiring!

Those were the car side connectors. These are the radio side: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142427857851

You could try these, if you have a proper crimper? High Quality 16 Pin ISO Car Audio Female Terminal Connector Block Kit HIFI Loom | eBay

Bruno, Are you sure it doesn't need the camber setting up with the two bolts on the strut/hub? There is plenty of play there when the two bolts are loose. The other thing that tripped me up was the location of the bottom ball joint - there is a bit of adjustment there too.

VCDS can code the transponders to the immobiliser (if you have the passcode for the immobiliser): Immobilizer 1 - Ross-Tech Wiki (You can read the immobiliser passcode using vag-tacho, if you don't have it) I can do this with you - if you are around Manchester...

I'm sure the micro-switches and harness are connected "inside" the handle mechanism. I've not meddled with the handles other than to replace the lock tumblers to match the key... Is the wiring still in the door - up to the three-way connector? One of the wires is permanent 12v and dabbing one or the other wire locks/unlocks the doors. If that works on both doors, it may be worth investing in C/L door handles?

From memory: I'm sure that connector is for the MFA switch.

If your engine is cranking on the starter motor, but not running - it will be either no spark or no fuel. Whip a spark plug out and does it smell of fuel? While its out can you see it spark? The fuel pump is turned on by the Engine control module, through a relay on the fusebox (position 12). The power is fused (fuse 16 - from memory). When the ignition is first turned on, the fuel pump is pulsed. Note: Checking for 12v across the pump isn't simple in this scenario. When the engine is cranked, the fuel pump is then turned on. You are best using a 12v bulb (or preferably an LED) on wires so you can see power across the fuel pump. If you have spark and the fuel pump wiring seems ok, you could have a stuck fuel pump (hit the underside of the tank and see if you can free it off), or your fuel filter could be blocked? Your factory immobiliser is Immobiliser 1 - which is what you see in VCDS - there is a transponder in the key: Immobilizer - Ross-Tech Wiki (ross-tech.com) Where this immobiliser is a problem, the car starts and cuts out after a second or so... Good luck and report back with your findings.

Here is what I have - I'll send you photos directly. http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/COR/year/1995/drive_standart/76/hg_ug/877/subcategory/182020/part_id/3695293/lang/e#sec_1 Item 1 - 1h0 898 017a (repair kit for guide for steel sliding roof - left front) & 1h0 898 018a (repair kit for guide for steel sliding roof - right front) Item 8 - 1h0 898 014a (guide with cable for steel sliding roof - left and right) Item 12 - 1h0 898 020 (repair kit for water guide plate for steel sliding roof - left rear) & 1h0 898 019 (repair kit for water guide plate for steel sliding roof right rear) Item 17 - 1h0 898 151 (gate guide - left) & 1h0 898 151 (gate guide - right) Apologies to totallyoriginal for hijacking his wanted post.

Code 00285 - Ross-Tech Wiki (ross-tech.com) ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Front Right (G45) This wont cause your lumpy running, but could be caused by a bad sensor or a wiring problem. Be cautious with this as I replaced the sensor on my car with a new one and I still kept getting this error code. I checked the wiring and all seemed ok - I was getting a resistance of 1200 Ohms for the sensor. A few months of headscratching and dithering I bought another sensor with a resistance of 1500 Ohms and all is now well with my ABS system. Code 00525 - Ross-Tech Wiki (ross-tech.com) Lambda Sensor (G39) It may not necessarily be a faulty sensor, but something else may be wrong and this is a symptom - rather than the cause. Code 00552 Volume air flow (VAF) sensor I can't find much on this code, so probably an intake leak, or could be a wiring problem or a fault sensor?

Hi fla, I have a new set of sunroof cables which I bought from VW many years back. I haven't got round to fixing the sunroof as I have larger problems to sort first! I will loan them to you if it can assist you to make the bits??

Updated link: How to fit / wire / install obd2 - [Archive] Wiki Submissions & Collaboration - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net)

It could be several parts of the locking system, so try an eliminate each item in turn: Outside door handle (most likely) Inside door handle Latching mechanism (probably isn't this) With the door open, remove the outside door handle (door handle removal! - Exterior - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net) more fiddly than anything else) and see if the door closes and opens by pushing the levers inside the door. If the door opens and closes reliably the latching mechanism is fine and the problem is probably to do with the outer door handle. It can be repaired using Dave16v's repair kit Door handle repair kit..........THEY ARE NOW AVAILABLE - Suppliers Forum - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net). Ensure the inside door handle is located correctly and latched in to the locator hole on the door frame.

Thank you - It hasn't progressed much in the last 3 years. This is a 1995. The heatshield(s) are secured with the white plastic (3-way I think) pipe clips supporting the brake lines. I installed a Teves 20 system from a Mk3 and made the brake lines with Clarik 3/16" Kunifer pipe (copper/nickle/iron) - inspired by existing posts on here. I wish I had started shaping the pipes from the back of the car and ended up at the front: I was getting more familiar with how the pipes bend and adjusting where the bend starts so all the pipes look right in the end - especially connecting to the ABS module. Apologies for hijacking OP thread.

Is this what you are after? The condenser is P/N 535 820 411D. The pipe (from the pump) slides in with an O-ring, and then clamped together with the nut thing...

I picked up a LHD Corrado air-con setup many years ago. So its LHD Air con condenser and Dryer (I've got a new dryer when its ready to go back together - at some point).