Philly-R6

I'm pretty sure the window control logic is all in the window control box (behind the right-rear "door" card) - the thing you have already changed. Is it just the passenger side causing problems? It could be the motor in the passenger door, or a short along the wiring in/to the door. I can't see the window switch causing a problem as the control box should clunk a relay to remove the power from the motor. Try disconnecting the window switches and see if the problem persists? Also, can you lower the windows on the key (maybe that is a Mk3 thing...)?

GrizzlyBear, how did you sort this issue? I had the exact same problem with my Valeo replacement. I removed the black plastic adapter from the bottom of the new heater matrix and it slotted into the housing snugly.

Not sure what model you have, but have a perusal of this post: Cobra 4138 Cat 1 Page 35 of the attached PDF has the pinout...

VWs' Self Study Program 101 describes how the spoiler system works (German only - I can't find an English example). http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/index2_eng.php The last pages display the wiring schematic, and it looks like the Corrado clocks dictate _when_ the spoiler operates. I take it the spoiler still works manually on the button? If you are up for the challenge, look at emulating the original behaviour [somehow]...

I assume the other indicators are operating ok - it is just this one light that fails to illuminate? It can only be a problem with the bulb, the bulb holder or the wiring harness. Are you definitely sure the bulb works - have you swapped it with the indicator on the other side? Look at the state of the bulb holder. Are the connections contaminated with dirt, or green crap? Do you get a momentary 12v across the pins of the plug on the wiring harness, with the hazard lights on? If you don't get 12v on the plug, trace the wiring back and see if there are breaks... Good luck!

Mawrick, I think I have the pipe you are after (see attached images) - the threads are pretty good, too! It came off a LHD Corrado A/C condenser (I don't need it as all my A/C pipes are on the gearbox side).

The circuit is very simple: there is a sender (with the pump in the tank), and the fuel gauge. As you say, it is either the gauge or the sender. Bentley publishers have a page on testing gauges and senders: http://www.bentleypublishers.com/tech/vw/bentley.vw1301.testing.htm Empty values are 288 Ohms and full values are 37 Ohms. You could un-plug the connector from the fuel pump (through that round black panel in the boot) and put some resistors across the sender (pins 2 & 3). Does the fuel gauge react as you expect? If it does, look at the values reported by the sender...

Jon, You could knock a new harness up - have a look at the electric windows harness for part numbers and inspiration! Could take power from the fusebox (the red block - 30/30b ?), through a standard fuse holder (which could clip to the top of the fusebox) and off to a 12v connector. The ground goes to the 'ground connection ring' by the drivers door...

The central locking and power windows are related. The window control module (rear drivers side door card - where you are hearing the clicking) appears to have power (the 20 Amp fuse sits above the fusebox). When a window opens/closes, the control module clicks when the glass comes to a stop. Disconnect the window switches and see if the continuous clicking stops. Re-connect the switches one at a time and see if the clicking returns? The central locking module (rear drivers side in a styrene mould in the boot) is powered through the same harness, and has another power through fuse 16 (10 Amp). The doors are vacuum operated, so can you hear the locks being actuated by locking/unlocking any of the doors/boot? If not, disconnect the vacuum pipe from the pump and see if the pump actually runs (it should make a racket for 30 seconds or so as it tries to build a vacuum).

Easy step first: power mirrors! Power and illumination use the same source, so check 12v is on pins 6 (power) and 7 (illumination) on the Mirror Adjustment Switch. Check fuse 14 (10 Amp). If the fuse has blown, other circuits will not work as well...

I can't tell where that photo is on the car. Is it by the rear passenger foot well? Is it an American/Canadian car?? It could actually be the harness to control the seatbelts, but has the control box missing? The wiring diagram notes a 5 Amp fuse is "Located near right seat belt control unit, right quarter panel." Can you chase the wiring and see where it goes?

I've not done this (I cheated and bought the whole arms). But, I hope this image helps.

For information, VW Heritage do headlight switches (£70 though!!): https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/535941531F/headlight-switch-for-corrado-uk-spec-92-95/

I stumbled across this link: workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk3/running_gear_self-diagnosis_for_abs/self_diagnosis_v.a.g_inspection_service/self-diagnosis_function_itt_mark_20_gi/distinguishing_features_of_abs_itt_mark_20_gi_and_the_abs/edl_itt_mark_20_gi/ The pages take some reading, but once you get around the formatting its quite good.

I have a set of Vogtland springs - http://www.vogtland.com/en/sport_springs.php. They were fitted to my 1995 VR6 by a previous owner, but the car was too low for my poor knees... Not sure of their age, but the details are: front: vdf va 956010 rear: vdf ha 956051 kba90478 http://s410.photobucket.com/user/philip_grogan/library/Vogtland%20Springs http://shop.vogtland.com/index.php/all-products/corrado-typ-53i-2-0-16v-vr6.html?___store=english Unfortunately, I haven't got a picture of the car when they were fitted. Located in Hazel Grove, looking for £40 posted.

Miikey, I had the same problem (snapped stud), but it is fixable. I took my crossmember to Quasar Engineering in Stockport ( http://www.quasarengineering.co.uk/ ) and they replaced the stud for £20. I'm not sure what he actually did, but it took the chap 30 minutes to repair it. Have a look for a local engineering place and see if they can help you out...

You need to determine if your problem is with the gauge or the sender (or wiring in between?!)? Refer to Bentley Publishers' Gauge Testing page for some background: http://www.bentleypublishers.com/tech/vw/bentley.vw1301.testing.htm Try substituting various values for the fuel sender (and coolant sender) and see if the gauge follows as you expect (using values from the conversion table): Full - 35 Ohms 1/4 tank - 116 Ohms Empty - 288 Ohms

I stumbled across the mounting brackets, but couldn't see a part number on them.

You are after 191 906 231E "6-way flat contact housing": http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/COR/1994/76/57/856840/ (item 51) ETKA: COR/1995/9/71/287-01 Beware that the LHD Corrado A/C switch does not clip into the base of the RHD Corrado heater controller. It does clip into a LHD Corrado (or a Mk3 Golf) heater controller, but the bowden cables approach from the wrong side...

I agree with you that the length of the brake hoses are a defined length, so shouldn't need to be shortened. I have HEL lines fitted to my VR6 and they have a grommet already fitted to slot into the mounting bracket. The strut itself should have a mounting point for the handed mounting bracket to bolt through, as Jon_vr6 and Cressa have already mentioned. I have seen Bilstein coilovers with the same mounting point. You can see the mounting point on this image (borrowed from MDMTechnik's post: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?92068-VR6-Storm-full-restoration&p=1103298&viewfull=1#post1103298). I can't find the bracket in the parts catalogue, so I can check if there is a part number stamped on my setup at weekend... What damper is fitted to your car? Does it have the mounting point like in MDM's picture? Are you just missing the bracket and bolt?

I experienced something similar with my headliner and had the sunroof panel and headliner re-covered for £200. The chap removed the old material, the crumbling foam backing and the old glue, then recovered them with new material. The material used is similar in colour and texture (not exactly what VW supplied, but close) and comes with the spongey backing applied. If you are in South Manchester, I used a chap called Pete Lenton in Cheadle. The difficult part is refitting the headliner without leaving dimples in the new fabric with your fingers. Pete told me to use clean sponges to support the headliner while handling it.

The 1-pin "flat contact housing" s are: # 701 906 231 - Light grey # 701 906 231F - Green VW supply black items if you order them (all colour variant part numbers are superseded). The crimps I have used (with much success)are TE 927770-3 - just from eBay (try the seller 3wayComp). http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xte+junior+power+timer.TRS0&_nkw=te+junior+power+timer&_sacat=0 The length of the two wires (from the weld next to the switch connector) is 105cm, with the last 30cm unbound. Fitting the harness is simple?! Drop the fusebox and you can see five black connectors on the top of the fusebox (that relay is for the VR6 engine - OBD1): TV5 is the left-most 4way block => Black wire TV8 is the right-most 4way block => Grey/Blue wire The arrowed connector positions are where the heated seat harness fits, as fitted by the factory. We should write a "Definitive How To Fit Heated Seats" thread - and a "How does the fusebox go back up there" thread!

RHD TRW Steering box 1h2 422 061a ( COR/1994/4/22/105-00 ) http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/COR/1994/76/52/845368/ 1h2 422 061a ( GO/1994/4/22/422-40 ) http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/GO/1994/121/52/1270427/ Looks like the MK3 GTi, 16V and VR6 use the same steering rack... RHD Vane type pump 6n0 145 157 ( COR/1994/1/45/47-50 ) http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/COR/1994/76/49/842601/ 1h0 145 157 ( GO/1994/1/45/145-85 ) http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/GO/1994/121/49/1266683/ The pumps are different, but I don't know what the differences are...

Refer to this post regarding: How To Fit Heated Seats Loom Wiring connections: # Power comes in via the Black wire (Green plug) which plugs into the grey strip/block ( TV5 ) above the fusebox. # Illumination for the switch is supplied through the Grey/Blue wire (Grey plug) which plugs into the grey strip/block ( TV8 ) above the fusebox. Sounds like you just need the single pin connectors and crimps. I have a seat loom accessible if you need more details/photos...

Hi Jonny, I have a set of Vogtland springs, if you are interested (I'm in Hazel Grove)? http://www.vogtland.com/en/sport_springs.php They were fitted to my 1995 VR6 by a previous owner, but the car was too low for my poor knees... Not sure of their age, but the details are: front: vdf va 956010 rear: vdf ha 956051 kba90478 http://s410.photobucket.com/user/philip_grogan/library/Vogtland%20Springs http://shop.vogtland.com/index.php/all-products/corrado-typ-53i-2-0-16v-vr6.html?___store=english Unfortunately, I haven't got a picture of the car when they were fitted. Looking for £50.