Philly-R6

Jon, You could knock a new harness up - have a look at the electric windows harness for part numbers and inspiration! Could take power from the fusebox (the red block - 30/30b ?), through a standard fuse holder (which could clip to the top of the fusebox) and off to a 12v connector. The ground goes to the 'ground connection ring' by the drivers door...

The central locking and power windows are related. The window control module (rear drivers side door card - where you are hearing the clicking) appears to have power (the 20 Amp fuse sits above the fusebox). When a window opens/closes, the control module clicks when the glass comes to a stop. Disconnect the window switches and see if the continuous clicking stops. Re-connect the switches one at a time and see if the clicking returns? The central locking module (rear drivers side in a styrene mould in the boot) is powered through the same harness, and has another power through fuse 16 (10 Amp). The doors are vacuum operated, so can you hear the locks being actuated by locking/unlocking any of the doors/boot? If not, disconnect the vacuum pipe from the pump and see if the pump actually runs (it should make a racket for 30 seconds or so as it tries to build a vacuum).

Easy step first: power mirrors! Power and illumination use the same source, so check 12v is on pins 6 (power) and 7 (illumination) on the Mirror Adjustment Switch. Check fuse 14 (10 Amp). If the fuse has blown, other circuits will not work as well...

I can't tell where that photo is on the car. Is it by the rear passenger foot well? Is it an American/Canadian car?? It could actually be the harness to control the seatbelts, but has the control box missing? The wiring diagram notes a 5 Amp fuse is "Located near right seat belt control unit, right quarter panel." Can you chase the wiring and see where it goes?

I've not done this (I cheated and bought the whole arms). But, I hope this image helps.

For information, VW Heritage do headlight switches (£70 though!!): https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/535941531F/headlight-switch-for-corrado-uk-spec-92-95/

I stumbled across this link: workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk3/running_gear_self-diagnosis_for_abs/self_diagnosis_v.a.g_inspection_service/self-diagnosis_function_itt_mark_20_gi/distinguishing_features_of_abs_itt_mark_20_gi_and_the_abs/edl_itt_mark_20_gi/ The pages take some reading, but once you get around the formatting its quite good.

I have a set of Vogtland springs - http://www.vogtland.com/en/sport_springs.php. They were fitted to my 1995 VR6 by a previous owner, but the car was too low for my poor knees... Not sure of their age, but the details are: front: vdf va 956010 rear: vdf ha 956051 kba90478 http://s410.photobucket.com/user/philip_grogan/library/Vogtland%20Springs http://shop.vogtland.com/index.php/all-products/corrado-typ-53i-2-0-16v-vr6.html?___store=english Unfortunately, I haven't got a picture of the car when they were fitted. Located in Hazel Grove, looking for £40 posted.

Miikey, I had the same problem (snapped stud), but it is fixable. I took my crossmember to Quasar Engineering in Stockport ( http://www.quasarengineering.co.uk/ ) and they replaced the stud for £20. I'm not sure what he actually did, but it took the chap 30 minutes to repair it. Have a look for a local engineering place and see if they can help you out...

You need to determine if your problem is with the gauge or the sender (or wiring in between?!)? Refer to Bentley Publishers' Gauge Testing page for some background: http://www.bentleypublishers.com/tech/vw/bentley.vw1301.testing.htm Try substituting various values for the fuel sender (and coolant sender) and see if the gauge follows as you expect (using values from the conversion table): Full - 35 Ohms 1/4 tank - 116 Ohms Empty - 288 Ohms

I stumbled across the mounting brackets, but couldn't see a part number on them.

You are after 191 906 231E "6-way flat contact housing": http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/COR/1994/76/57/856840/ (item 51) ETKA: COR/1995/9/71/287-01 Beware that the LHD Corrado A/C switch does not clip into the base of the RHD Corrado heater controller. It does clip into a LHD Corrado (or a Mk3 Golf) heater controller, but the bowden cables approach from the wrong side...

I agree with you that the length of the brake hoses are a defined length, so shouldn't need to be shortened. I have HEL lines fitted to my VR6 and they have a grommet already fitted to slot into the mounting bracket. The strut itself should have a mounting point for the handed mounting bracket to bolt through, as Jon_vr6 and Cressa have already mentioned. I have seen Bilstein coilovers with the same mounting point. You can see the mounting point on this image (borrowed from MDMTechnik's post: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?92068-VR6-Storm-full-restoration&p=1103298&viewfull=1#post1103298). I can't find the bracket in the parts catalogue, so I can check if there is a part number stamped on my setup at weekend... What damper is fitted to your car? Does it have the mounting point like in MDM's picture? Are you just missing the bracket and bolt?

I experienced something similar with my headliner and had the sunroof panel and headliner re-covered for £200. The chap removed the old material, the crumbling foam backing and the old glue, then recovered them with new material. The material used is similar in colour and texture (not exactly what VW supplied, but close) and comes with the spongey backing applied. If you are in South Manchester, I used a chap called Pete Lenton in Cheadle. The difficult part is refitting the headliner without leaving dimples in the new fabric with your fingers. Pete told me to use clean sponges to support the headliner while handling it.

The 1-pin "flat contact housing" s are: # 701 906 231 - Light grey # 701 906 231F - Green VW supply black items if you order them (all colour variant part numbers are superseded). The crimps I have used (with much success)are TE 927770-3 - just from eBay (try the seller 3wayComp). http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xte+junior+power+timer.TRS0&_nkw=te+junior+power+timer&_sacat=0 The length of the two wires (from the weld next to the switch connector) is 105cm, with the last 30cm unbound. Fitting the harness is simple?! Drop the fusebox and you can see five black connectors on the top of the fusebox (that relay is for the VR6 engine - OBD1): TV5 is the left-most 4way block => Black wire TV8 is the right-most 4way block => Grey/Blue wire The arrowed connector positions are where the heated seat harness fits, as fitted by the factory. We should write a "Definitive How To Fit Heated Seats" thread - and a "How does the fusebox go back up there" thread!

RHD TRW Steering box 1h2 422 061a ( COR/1994/4/22/105-00 ) http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/COR/1994/76/52/845368/ 1h2 422 061a ( GO/1994/4/22/422-40 ) http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/GO/1994/121/52/1270427/ Looks like the MK3 GTi, 16V and VR6 use the same steering rack... RHD Vane type pump 6n0 145 157 ( COR/1994/1/45/47-50 ) http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/COR/1994/76/49/842601/ 1h0 145 157 ( GO/1994/1/45/145-85 ) http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/GO/1994/121/49/1266683/ The pumps are different, but I don't know what the differences are...

Refer to this post regarding: How To Fit Heated Seats Loom Wiring connections: # Power comes in via the Black wire (Green plug) which plugs into the grey strip/block ( TV5 ) above the fusebox. # Illumination for the switch is supplied through the Grey/Blue wire (Grey plug) which plugs into the grey strip/block ( TV8 ) above the fusebox. Sounds like you just need the single pin connectors and crimps. I have a seat loom accessible if you need more details/photos...

Hi Jonny, I have a set of Vogtland springs, if you are interested (I'm in Hazel Grove)? http://www.vogtland.com/en/sport_springs.php They were fitted to my 1995 VR6 by a previous owner, but the car was too low for my poor knees... Not sure of their age, but the details are: front: vdf va 956010 rear: vdf ha 956051 kba90478 http://s410.photobucket.com/user/philip_grogan/library/Vogtland%20Springs http://shop.vogtland.com/index.php/all-products/corrado-typ-53i-2-0-16v-vr6.html?___store=english Unfortunately, I haven't got a picture of the car when they were fitted. Looking for £50.

I've not used them, but try Rimstock in West Brom': http://www.rimstock.co.uk/content/restoration They produced the wheels for Prodrive for the Impreza RB320 (there are good reports on RB320OC). http://www.rb320ownersclub.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=3793&p=106550

Are you good with wiring diagrams? http://www.corrado.com.pl/elektryka/corrado92.pdf There can only be a problem with: A. the wiper motor (unlikeky) - harness goes from fusebox connector 'S' to wiper motor B. wiper stalk/switch (possible) - harness goes from fusebox connector 'J' to wiper switch on steering column C. the fuse or relay (both checked) Challenge yourself and trace the wiring through...

A bit of a late reply, but try Glenn Harrop in Stretford: http://www.glennharropmotors.co.uk/. Used him for years and he knows his stuff!

Ahh, I can't help you: I have the later version ( 357 919 506 ), which has a 10-pin connector on the right (where yours' has an 8-pin connector). Hopefully, someone local to you can assist further...

Hi Rado87, I didn't realise these were ongoing problems for you. I cant see these sensors blowing fuses (unless they fail and short to earth), so I would be cautious about spending money on sensors without understanding the problem. I can understand a faulty coolant temperature sensor making your hot starts difficult... I am drawn to the Fan Controller to investigate first - it is common to the two fuses you mention, and the problem is intermittent (when you are driving). Does it look in good nick? Does it look water tight?? I have a known good 10-pin version, do you want to loan it and rule your Fan Controller in or out? Phil

Check relay position 8 is snugly seated in the fusebox - that is the controller for the intermittent wipe: 19 for standard relay, 99 for variable intermittent module, see http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html...

Hi, I believe fuse 13 is for the horns only (see fuse listings at the bottom of this page http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html). Fuse 19 does supply the power to the temperature sensor ( F18 ) on the radiator. Have you followed the notes in the Definitive Cooling Guide - in particular the "Fans/pump after-run fault-checking" section?