Philly-R6

The left hand driveshaft came out of my VR6 no problem, but had to use a puller on the right hand side to push the shaft through the hub.

Further to Brunos answer, here is a pic showing what you are looking for. Hope it helps.

I thought the camshaft specs were posted on here, but I cannot find them... I did find this post on Club GTi: What's the differences between Golf and Corrado cams? | Club GTI - unsure how truthful it is...

Can you not use the originals? - or are they proper mullered? If you have bent them upwards (into a banana shape), you _could_ rescue the aluminium structure with a heat gun, firm/controlled hand manipulation and lots of patience. Then slide them on from the front of the door pushing towards the back. Also the rubber bit has some locating lugs moulded into it - where it wraps over the frame of the door.

Hi Cressa, can I bagsy these, please?

I cannot confirm or deny - I suppose it depends what bolt(s) have snapped and access to the area. There isn't that much room to get your hands there _and_ see what's going on - even if the inlet bits are removed from above. Hope it helps

Good work, Cressa. I got Golf MK3 stainless lines from HEL Performance when I did this upgrade. HEL told me the MK3 and MK4 288mm calipers had different thread pitches for the banjo bolt: I've only seen MK3 calipers, so its something we need to check out...

I stumbled across a photo of the fusebox - dropped toward the floor. Power ( TV5 ) is to the left of the pic and Illumination ( TV8 ) to the right.

Ha - hope you sort it.

I don't remember any studs around the transmission tunnel. I would guess the handbrake fixing would be the only stud substantial enough for an earth. There are a few studs for mounting the plastic trims on the tunnel? And one for a plastic clamp for retaining the various harnesses. I have only seen the two standard harnesses: 1. small harness: White plug for the switch, Black 6-way plug to connect to the large harness, two single plugs to the blocks on top of the fusebox. 2. large harness: Black 6-way socket from the small harness, two plugs to the seats, large block housing the two controllers and the earth.

I wrote some notes here: The harness is grounded to the stud by the relay assembly (Brown wire with ring connector) - near where your knees would be sat in the rear-left seat. See Cressa's pic here: Power comes in via the Black wire (Green plug) which plugs into the grey strip/block ( TV5 ) above the fusebox. Illumination for the switch is supplied through the Grey/Blue wire (Grey plug) which plugs into the grey strip/block ( TV8 ) above the fusebox. Match the colours with what's there already... Have fun!

Bigg Red appear to do Repair kits - unsure if they are for our VR6's...

I was toying with that route, but not actually bought one. https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/omex-shift-light-pro-omslp https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/files/transfer/technical/doc/omslpwiringinstructions.pdf The instructions state the box can drive up to 0.5A (or 6W), so should drive a relay.

Part 358-611-301 Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir, Corrado. Used my original cap to match the plug.

[From memory] I put a non-abs Corrado reservoir on the MK3 master cylinder and servo. The reservoir had the feed for the clutch (but not the two ABS feed pipes). I can't find my photos (or the paperwork for this item??) at the mo' - I'll get the part number at weekend...

Hi Stone0311, I have some photos of when I was looking at G60's a while back - the image is of a 1991 model. From your lower image, the large L-shaped pipe (at the bottom) with the thin pipe from bottom to top is the pipe (from the engine bay image) from the top of the radiator to the thermostat (thin bit goes to the expansion tank). I don't know what the earlier cars looked like...

Hi, Interested in the doors and boot. Are they in good condition - any rust / dents / deep scratches etc. I will deffo take them if they are in better condition than what I have! Also, where are you? Phil

Excellent work! I always wanted to put a push button to drive the central locking from the inside in that blank next to the demister switch. I'm inspired now....

Try Simtek in Rochdale (https://www.simtekuk.co.uk) - I've only bought wire from them, though. You can do it yourself if you want to invest in some tools. It isn't that difficult - just fiddly, if you are interested in that sort of stuff... If you are around Manchester, I will show you.

This any help to you? It's the FRANKFURT RCM 104, though... https://www.blaupunkt.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Service/SERVICEDOKU_ZIEL/EA/GB/7644440510001_EA_GB.pdf ...or in English! https://www.blaupunkt.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Service/SERVICEDOKU_ZIEL/EA/GB/7644440510001_EA_GB.pdf

There is a document g3abs95on.pdf which is on RunJonny's google docs page: https://sites.google.com/site/rubjonny/ >> VAG Documents and have a rummage... The wiring to the ABS lamp - and the ABS lamp - need to be from the Golf3, too. Have you tried checking if there are any error codes in the ABS controller?

https://www.kenwood-electronics.co.uk/car/rec/bluetooth/KMM-BT504DAB/?view=support Page 32 of the manual shows the connections. DAB aerial connects to top right on the rear panel - above the analogue aerial. It looks a good unit - report back with your thoughts when its in.

There is a bulb on-board the [factory] a/c switch which provides a back light and is on with the ignition. When the switches are pressed in, the light from the bulb travels along the body of the plastic button and it appears illuminated. I thought I had a photo to illustrate, but I can't find one... Getting the a/c switch unclipped from the heater control assembly is more fiddley.

My coilovers used the normal top mounts for the car.

There is a wiki article to repair the fuse on the resistor pack: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/fan_speed_thermal_fuse_repair.html The problem is elsewhere, as your fuse keeps blowing (as you elude to). The blower fan is drawing more current than it should. Try cleaning the blower fan and ensure it spins freely. Also clear the inlet grill under the windscreen scuttle, so air can be sucked in freely. There are two versions of the resistor, early and late (the part number supplied is for the early interior). I think the difference is the late interior was 4-speed and the early interior was 3-speed.