Philly-R6

You could try reseating the flasher relay - position 6 on the fusebox (I think). Also, make sure the fuses are correctly seated. Do the indicators work when the alarm is set?

There is a wiki article describing how to fix your fan problem: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/fan_speed_thermal_fuse_repair.html The temperature control can be down to something broken in the dials (maybe the control arm?), the cable that moves the flap in the air distribution housing - or the heater matrix is blocked? You will need to have a rummage around and see... Just remember most problems have already been documented on here, so searching is your friend!

I had a similar problem, but I noticed the sheath of the Bowden cable had slipped from the springy clamp thing (there is one for either end). I refitted the cable and all worked ok.

I'll take this off you, Diarmaid.

A few member have fitted the bonnet sound proofing (I need to do it at some point!). Review this old thread for some tips: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?90359-Corrado-OEM-style-under-bonnet-soundproofing-kit-Group-Buy&p=1064306&viewfull=1#post1064306

I have a 1997 Mk3 Golf VR6 engine (AAA) with less than 140k on it. It comprises the block and head (including injectors and plugs, but no sensors, coilpack, loom or upper manifold). It is in Hazel Grove if you want to have a look?

There is a post on VWVortex, which may assist you.

Hi, I require two grommets for the [three] factory holes in the bulkhead of my 1995 VR6 (the area under the ABS pump - where the rear screen pipe passes into the cabin): 1. larger/inner grommet 2. middle grommet [ATTACH=CONFIG]86816[/ATTACH] Can anyone help?! Many thanks

I found a listing which claims to match your Corrado part number: Receiver Dryer Air Con Transporter Caravelle 535820191A Delphi TSP0175275.

Is this any help?

I raised this last year (http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?94045-Permissions-VW-Heritage-details) - but I never checked it was fixed - I used the code from VR6OC. Having just checked now, I don't have access to the page either.

Unsure what car you are referring to, but if you have a VR6, there are a few sensors on the thermostat housing as seen here. Also, peruse the definitive cooling thread to understand the cooling system - it gives a good overview of the sensors and what they do (only one sensor supplies the temperature gauge). Before you go spending cash on sensors, have a read of Bentley's Gauges and Instrument testing article regarding how the sensors operate. Then try substituting the sensor with a resistor and see if the gauge displays an appropriate value. What make you think the readings are incorrect? Could the thermostat be faulty - and the coolant is actually cooler than expected? Do the fans not operate - but it is roasting under the bonnet?

Here are my guesses: I can't see enough of the surrounding area from the picture, but could the brown connector be for the MFA switch? The MFA stalk has a flying lead (could be 4-pin) which connects to the loom on the side of the steering column (from memory, near to the ignition switch). The picture with the 3 fuses looks like original Scorpion alarm wiring (near the OBD data connector).

Try Glenn Harrop, in Stretford (just up the A56 from Altrincham): http://www.glennharropmotors.co.uk/contactus.html He is VW trained and I've used him for years.

Your 1995 VR6 has probably got the Teves 04 (I think) ABS system with the 535 919 235BA ABS lamp. This lamp has two connections - a 7-pin connector for the ABS lamp and a 2-pin airbag connector (unused inside the lamp). If the lamp is compatible with the ABS control module, you will more than likely have to change the plug on your existing harness to match the lamp - try to get the plug with the lamp (the pinouts are printed on the housing). Not sure how to plumb in the check engine light - the ECU emits the signal (on pin 5), but unsure where it pops out of the engine harness to connect it. Find the wire and this bit should work ok? On a side note, what does the left lamp indicate? The handbrake/fluid level state would still be displayed by the normal indicator under the dials.

As the immobiliser module "works" with the keys, you could try to re-set the Immobiliser and Engine control modules - follow the Immobilizer I ECU Swapping instructions. BTW, I've never actually done this. It is worth perusing the Ross Tech wiki page for code P1570: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17978/P1570/005488 it has a few good pointers.

It is possible to meddle with the immobiliser with full version of VCDS; http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Immobilizer#Immobilizer_Generation_1 You just need the pin code for the immobiliser. If you don't know the immobilisers' pin code, it can be 'read' using VAGTacho. I have got as far as reading the pin code from an immobiliser box, but not actually used the pin with VCDS yet. If you are near Manchester, I can read the pin code for you - just bring the immobiliser box and a matched key.

Try searching t'internet for g3radfan3speed.pdf, and you should find a two page PDF containing a wiring diagram. Don't forget to peruse The definitive VR6 cooling guide!

I'm pretty sure the window control logic is all in the window control box (behind the right-rear "door" card) - the thing you have already changed. Is it just the passenger side causing problems? It could be the motor in the passenger door, or a short along the wiring in/to the door. I can't see the window switch causing a problem as the control box should clunk a relay to remove the power from the motor. Try disconnecting the window switches and see if the problem persists? Also, can you lower the windows on the key (maybe that is a Mk3 thing...)?

GrizzlyBear, how did you sort this issue? I had the exact same problem with my Valeo replacement. I removed the black plastic adapter from the bottom of the new heater matrix and it slotted into the housing snugly.

Not sure what model you have, but have a perusal of this post: Cobra 4138 Cat 1 Page 35 of the attached PDF has the pinout...

VWs' Self Study Program 101 describes how the spoiler system works (German only - I can't find an English example). http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/index2_eng.php The last pages display the wiring schematic, and it looks like the Corrado clocks dictate _when_ the spoiler operates. I take it the spoiler still works manually on the button? If you are up for the challenge, look at emulating the original behaviour [somehow]...

I assume the other indicators are operating ok - it is just this one light that fails to illuminate? It can only be a problem with the bulb, the bulb holder or the wiring harness. Are you definitely sure the bulb works - have you swapped it with the indicator on the other side? Look at the state of the bulb holder. Are the connections contaminated with dirt, or green crap? Do you get a momentary 12v across the pins of the plug on the wiring harness, with the hazard lights on? If you don't get 12v on the plug, trace the wiring back and see if there are breaks... Good luck!

Mawrick, I think I have the pipe you are after (see attached images) - the threads are pretty good, too! It came off a LHD Corrado A/C condenser (I don't need it as all my A/C pipes are on the gearbox side).

The circuit is very simple: there is a sender (with the pump in the tank), and the fuel gauge. As you say, it is either the gauge or the sender. Bentley publishers have a page on testing gauges and senders: http://www.bentleypublishers.com/tech/vw/bentley.vw1301.testing.htm Empty values are 288 Ohms and full values are 37 Ohms. You could un-plug the connector from the fuel pump (through that round black panel in the boot) and put some resistors across the sender (pins 2 & 3). Does the fuel gauge react as you expect? If it does, look at the values reported by the sender...