nocrap

Howdy, I've recently changed my sump gasket to try and stop an oil leak...i've now got a sump that is less covered in oil but i still have a leak somewhere, seemingly on the offside upper area of the sump/lower engine block. I fear the the oil seal and/or crankshaft gasket could be gone, not expensive parts but will be a git of a job! Any other suggestions or some information on changing the seal and gasket if you have done this before would be handy. Thanks

There is also a black locking ring that you'll have to unscrew, mallet and a large slotted screwdriver should do it although mine wont budge!! Anyone got any tips on getting off a seriously stuck one!?

Don't touch the things! This is a local shop for local people, there's nothing for you here! :wave:

Looking good Stu! but for the sake of £15 please please please get some new number plates for it! Does it have a name yet?

Mic_VR does of did have it on his, think he was fairly impressed. You should be able to get them for around £230ish... i've just got the GTN kit (coilover front) from G-werks for £285. Dont forget to factor in the cost of new bolts and mounts as well

when i removed a lens from from a broken surround i just took ages with a junior hacksaw cutting away the lipped surround then gradually slicing the silicone with a scalpel.

Tis an arse, you'll need to smash out the broken lense and try and remove if from the silicone. a razor or similar will help

Had a Halfords calcium one in mine for a while now, very good starting power. And with a 4 year guarantee you cant really complain.

Just the VW dealership service manuals, you can often find them for sale in the auto tat at shows! The passat haynes will cover the engine, you can get the corrado bently manual and that will cover some of the chassis stuff but it's written for the G60 and VR. There isn't anything specifically made for the 9a Corrado.

Yup i can second that, very nice chap with good quality stuff!

No the head doesn't need to come off, all you need to remove is the inlet manifold and the cam cover. The only 'Special tool' you'll need to buy or make is a tool to tighten the cam belt tensioner pulley, I'd also recommend that you buy genuine VW parts (belt and tensioner).

Not done mine yet (shut up Beige!!)....but it shouldn't be too difficult if you're competent with a ratchet spanner and an engine, a second pair of hands would be useful to do the timing though.

Just replace the inlet cam, the exhaust is the same. While you're at it it's worth replacing the chain that links the 2 cams, if you can be arsed and it is near needing doing it might be worth replacing the cam belt and tensioner too! To set the timing to TDC (very basically) the dots on the cams must be facing each other, the arrow on the cam cover must be between the 2 spots on the cam sprocket and the dot on the flywheel must line up with the line mark when looking through the flywheel inspection bung. :scratch: Rotate the engine a few times using a good spline socket on the crankshaft pulley to check that it all keeps in line!!

One of those nylon bottle brushes would probably do the trick

Lambda connects into the exhaust around the cat, the lead plugs in to a socket that is to the rear left hand side of the engine block...

Find someone with VAG-COM, that'll quickly show up any ECU faults

Yeah, I should fully read peoples posts really!

Right! the first place I'd start is to look at 3 micro switches and check that they're operating.... MS1 is under the 'paddle' on the metering head (thing on top of air box), this lets the car know that the flap is closed MS2 is at the full throttle side of the throttle body, this lets the car know that the throttle is wide open MS3 is at the throttle closed position on the throttle body, obviously letting the car know the throttle is closed! The mixture setup could also be completely cheesed, there's a screw located about the airbox somewhere but i wouldn't advise playing with this......

Oh bugger, forgot about this one! sorry Dave Yes please. if possible. Thanks

Ones an early the others a late revision

VR? either 535 721 555 B or 535 721 555 A. Fitting can be a bit of git, take note of the route it takes from the pedal....maybe try and draw the new one in with it. I think its comes with a bulkhead grommet, but no too sure.

Rear axel bushes need replacing

Get it to somone with VAG COM, that should flag up faults with things like that

Which would be OK if it was a G60, unfortunatly its a 16v. Did the ISV get changed for a new one...i'm assuming probably not. when did you last clean it? Misfire under load would lead me to think its some sort of ignition fault but it looks like you've changed all the bits that could be causing it.....

Magnex! There's huge thread in the engine bay section for you to ponder through though