Crasher

A late type 35 Passat climatronic system will fit and give you almost everything up to the compressor and even that could be adapted.

83.5's have been known to be a problem with the old composite gasket but if you use a metal gasket for an ABF engine it will be fine as VW allow an 83.5 oversize on the ABF.

Sachs Sporting but the pedal effort required is high.

I would recommend you change the track rods as complete units as the inner ball is prone to wear. They are quite easy to change when the wishbones are off but you will need a 36-mm spanner (I think anyway, but it could be 34-mm) and the left hand track rod MUST be set to 406-mm (+/- 1-mm) and then fitted and never altered. The tracking must only be set on the right hand track rod end.

I don't know, Roy doesn’t listen to me. I only need the thread pitch as I think the ones in the Goodridge kit are wrong as they have a 1.5-mm pitch and I think it is 1-mm on the 312 calipers. I wish he wouldn't call me a guru, I can think of better names.

I agree with you over the JE's mine rattle like hell when cold but the oil consumption is quite reasonable.

Have you had or are you suffering from a leaking heater matrix?

As the Corrado never had A/c in right hand drive, the only option will be a Diavia kit which you will have to pick up used. As these are rare in four cylinder form, you may have to use a VR6 system and adapt it to the G60 but some of the parts for the LHD G60 are available genuine. Look at the sticky thread about this system.

The 9A block is 220-mm high from crank centre line to block deck whereas the ABF is 236-mm high. It was used in the Golf 3 16v, Passat and Ibiza GTI. The 9A and ABF use a virtually identical crank and the bore/stroke are the same at 82.5x92.8-mm respectively. The taller block was accommodated by the use of 159-mm long con rods instead of 144-mm and also slightly taller pistons with 1-mm larger gudgeon pins. The main reason for the increase in block height was to reduce the con rod angle when the engine is at the middle of its stroke and therefore improve refinement and reduce engine wear from a slower piston speed.

The water pump pulley is adjustable for offset by loosing the pulleys outer bolts and rotating the pulley clockwise or anticlockwise as necessary to achieve alignment but a groove and a half sounds a lot, the deviation must be no more than 0.4-mm.

The replacement OE centre/rear aren't supplied as one piece.

I would use the S2 pistons, forged ones rattle and burn oil or at least my JE's do.

The throttle touching the bonnet is a problem on early cars with the flat bonnet.

Presumably you mean ignition timing? It is set as original (6 degrees BTDC) but the red/black connector under the coil must be separated with the engine running before you can set it. The fact the timing has changed after a timing belt is worrying, either he has set the ignition timing incorrectly or the valve timing is now different (not necessarily wrong) to what it was before.

You can use a 6A after changing the sump to the transverse type (you can use your original and you need a 9A oil pump. Depending on the year of your KR you will need a later oil filter bracket and crankcase breather.

Eibach springs and Weitec 40-mm shortened dampers is about the most comfortable you will find and even that can be too much. The Spax TA's will drive you mad they are so hard. G-Max used to be a very comfortable kit but I haven’t used them fore a while.

The procedure for bleeding the ABS ITT MK4 system (not as in Golf 4) is the standard procedure. It is only with Mk20 that you have to jump through hops. VAG-COM is an incredibly good and useful tool and I would recommend http://www.ilexa.co.uk .

Do you mean the cross member under the radiator support that takes the front engine mount?

A common leak point. The flange is available from VW under the part number 027 121 133 E for £9.39 inc. VAT.

You kept det under control by dumping fuel in then? Whenever I built KR turbo’s in the past I used the Audi 5 cylinder 20v Turbo pistons as used in the RS2. These have the VW number 034 107 065 M but are cheaper from Mahle (034 92 00) or KS (90 037 600) and give a 9:1 compression with the correct squish. Unfortunately there isn’t a 9A suitable piston that I know of, off the shelf that is.

As the in sump time isn't known, have a filter and oil change and we would use Quantum Synta Silver.

The cable is 536 823 531 and costs £29.26 inc. VAT.

You can increase the capacity of a KR to as much as 2008cc using 83-mm (0.5-mm oversize) 9A pistons (don’t use KS, they burn oil, Mahle are the best and when you can get them, are around £500 a set) and 92.8-mm stroke crank (there are lots of sources for the crank such as 3A, 6A, 9A, 2E, ADY, AGG, ABF, AAC etc etc). You use the original KR rods. A 95.5-mm diesel crank is nigh on impossible to fit inside a KR block as it's 95.5-mm stroke is just too much. The boring of the block to 83-mm is routine but the work required to make the 92.8-mm crank swing is a lot. Each bore base needs to be cut away for rod clearance at middle dead centre, the pistons have to be modified to clear the oil jets at BDC, the oil pump must be changed for a 9A part, the intermediate shaft needs to be modified to clear number four rod as does the oil pump stand, number four rod needs a little work to help avoid the shaft and the area of the the block in front of number three rod needs to be cut back. This is why I only build KR 2litres for people like you; everyone else has a 9A as it is so much less trauma and significantly cheaper. If you find a worn 9A, they can be picked up for around £300, an exchange 9A block (built up including sump/oil pump) and then go to VW with the worn block and exchange it for a 9A for less than a grand.

2-mm off the piston crown would significantly weaken the piston leading to a risk of the crown cracking under the slightest detonation and the overall 4-mm drop in compression height would destroy the close collision squish (optimum being around 1-mm) so making a theoretical 8.0:1 compression even more prone to detonation than the original 10.5:1.

It could just be advertising BS, you know, he had the head decked and that’s the increase in compression. Raising the compression of a KR significantly isn't wise and the gains are minimal unless as Chris says it is to recover some of the lost dynamic compression due to high lift cams, which are also a waste of money on a road going 1800 KR.