Crasher

As the in sump time isn't known, have a filter and oil change and we would use Quantum Synta Silver.

The cable is 536 823 531 and costs £29.26 inc. VAT.

You can increase the capacity of a KR to as much as 2008cc using 83-mm (0.5-mm oversize) 9A pistons (don’t use KS, they burn oil, Mahle are the best and when you can get them, are around £500 a set) and 92.8-mm stroke crank (there are lots of sources for the crank such as 3A, 6A, 9A, 2E, ADY, AGG, ABF, AAC etc etc). You use the original KR rods. A 95.5-mm diesel crank is nigh on impossible to fit inside a KR block as it's 95.5-mm stroke is just too much. The boring of the block to 83-mm is routine but the work required to make the 92.8-mm crank swing is a lot. Each bore base needs to be cut away for rod clearance at middle dead centre, the pistons have to be modified to clear the oil jets at BDC, the oil pump must be changed for a 9A part, the intermediate shaft needs to be modified to clear number four rod as does the oil pump stand, number four rod needs a little work to help avoid the shaft and the area of the the block in front of number three rod needs to be cut back. This is why I only build KR 2litres for people like you; everyone else has a 9A as it is so much less trauma and significantly cheaper. If you find a worn 9A, they can be picked up for around £300, an exchange 9A block (built up including sump/oil pump) and then go to VW with the worn block and exchange it for a 9A for less than a grand.

2-mm off the piston crown would significantly weaken the piston leading to a risk of the crown cracking under the slightest detonation and the overall 4-mm drop in compression height would destroy the close collision squish (optimum being around 1-mm) so making a theoretical 8.0:1 compression even more prone to detonation than the original 10.5:1.

It could just be advertising BS, you know, he had the head decked and that’s the increase in compression. Raising the compression of a KR significantly isn't wise and the gains are minimal unless as Chris says it is to recover some of the lost dynamic compression due to high lift cams, which are also a waste of money on a road going 1800 KR.

You mean the accessory belt toothed drive conversion? If it stripped the teeth off of one of those, there is a problem.

The 120x80 back box is stainless as well, beautifully made.

There isn't much to choose between the two when doing a transplant. Rumour has it that the BAM is stronger but I have seen both fail. About the only reason I can think of to choose a BAM is that it has an Exhaust Gas Temperature sender in the turbo which can be useful during set up if your ECU of choice will display the temp, that and the fact that a BAM will be younger.

Can you post the code?

Most of the bearings are VW only and suppliers seem unable to get them, even though they list them. I have just rebuilt an 020 2Y for a customer and I could get the input shaft end bearing as it is just a rear wheel bearing, the diff bearings as well as one other I can't remember. All the needle cage bearings were VW specific. One I wanted is obsolete from VW as they recommend not refitting it but INA list it and won’t supply it. Seals all tend to be specific VW unless you search out the equivalents. I am just rebuilding a 1972 Beetle semi auto box and I have had hell getting some bearings and others I have got off the shelf from bearing factors. Certainly, when tracking down bearings, Goggle is very useful.

No, quite different.

You may be able to do it but it would be easier to take the shift unit out.

Yes, just swap the inlet cam over. You could take one of the left over exhaust cams and have it modified to use as an inlet cam for even more power, a very popular conversion in the 80's and early nineties.

Zoonders, that will be either leaking injectors or a failed non return valve on the fuel pump. mmatallana, get a fault code read done, you may have a temperamental crank speed sender.

Because you are using fuel and not moving so your average MPG falls, it isn't an instantaneous readout. The figure provided by the MFA isn't based on actual fuel used; it uses distance, revs and manifold depression against a table of values.

I can find two blue/blacks, one from the ECU pin 15 to the full throttle switch and one from the fuse box at location G2/3 to the cylinder head oil pressure switch, so both pretty much in the same area. The only white/blue I can see is as flusted says, to pin 2 of the Co pot (for charge air temperature) to pin 9 of the ECU.

I have had to grind the calliper to clear these on 288's, even the 8x17 split rims gave me grief on a Golf 3 VR6 with 288’s. I had so much trouble with RH I gave up importing them, if anything goes wrong you are on your own. Make sure you check them with new pads and discs.

Free or tensioned length? :oops:

Where are these wires dangling so to speak? Blue white is standard protocol for a road speed signal and the blue black rings a bell but my G60 wiring diagram is at work.

The relay is at position three on the fuse box, upper row of relays third position from the left.

You don't, buy a new one from GSF, quite cheap.

Forgot to mention the ABF, that will fit as well

Synta Silver used to be 15w/40 but it has changed to 10w/40, still what we use in all normal servicing except for turbo diesels (Quantum TD), PD engines (Quantum PD or Longlife) or when a customer wants something a little better, Synta Gold.

Yes it is very common, fit two new pipes from VW as they are pre-formed. Feed:-021 133 990K Return:-021 133 988K Clips x 4:-N 102 922 01 although the pipes are an utterly ludicrous £35.90 each inc. VAT which I just can’t see how they justify.

Change the rear pads to genuine or Textar Golf 4 tpye with the self adhesive backing but only use the self adhesive backing on the outer pad.