Crasher

Did you remove the cams? If you did, were new hydraulic tappets fitted? Also, was the head skimmed whist it was off and if so, by how much?

If you get a fault code read done and there are no fault codes, the most likely culprit will be the ECU relay (the fuel pump relays rarely fail, position twelve, bottom row on the far right). This relay is at position three on the fuse box (top main row of relays, third from the left) and has the number 30 printed on top and the VW part number is 165 906 381. If there is a relevant fault code on the ECU it will probably be the engine speed sensor but I don't know what engine your car has, 2E, ADY or AGG as only the ADY and AGG have a crank speed sensor. The relays cost about £12 from VW and the old fault prone versions have a black case and are made in the Philippines or Malaysia whereas the new versions are in a grey case and are made in Germany or more often than not, Portugal.

As you say, any one of the HT components but (in the dark) take a look around the leads, especially down the holes into the head where the end caps go, and look for any little blue sparks. Also, take the plugs out and have a look at them, especially number 6 to see if they are worn or carbon covered. I did a VR6 for a chap this morning that had what were described as new leads and plugs but the leads were sparking everywhere (ECP quality stuff) and the NGK plugs were worn with number 6 clogged solid with oil burning carbon. Ran a treat after new Beru plugs (I know, I know but I had run out of NGK’s, well I had four-Doh!) and Blue Igniters.

When you say it kept dying, how long would it run for each time it was re-started?

Try a pressure bleed first.

On top of the oil filter housing so they are a pig to get at and you need 1H0 919 563 which costs £14.32 from VW. Be wary of aftermarket alternatives, they can misread.

Wear a mask or your will have a sore throat for days. I have just wrapped a downpipe for a Mk1 racer and I am still itching. I use a hot air gun to speed up the drying but the smoke that comes off the wrap is evil. Make sure you thoroughly wet the wrap with VHT paint when it is fully dry. The main reason for the paint is to prevent the wrap absorbing oil which can then become a serious fire hazard as the wrap acts as a wick. Due to this, exhaust wrap has apparently been banned in some racing categories.

You need 191 145 832 D which is £79.78 inc. VAT from VW but usually on back order.

Have you had a fault code read?

The extra grooved bearing shell goes in the lower cap of number four main cap. What do the bearings say on the back and have you measured thee crank journals?

You can use a 24-mm bore master cylinder from a Corrado or pre 95 Golf 3/Passat with ABS but you also need to fit the matching servo. You will have a device sticking out of the servo that is a pedal movement sensor for the ABS. You can either leave it in place or make up a blank and extremely carefully (and perfectly to avoid air leaks) weld this up if you want it to look right.

ID of 55-mm and the pipe clamp to go around the front silencer should be 59.5-mm

You probably have a blocked matrix so you should give the valves a miss and order two new pipes and a genuine Golf 3 matrix. At 106 degrees, if the matrix goes your feet will get warm!

Excessive coolant system pressure due to a fault in the engine or cooling system so when they go, the coolant is usually hotter than ever. I have had it happen to me once on a Corrado G60 and saw it happen in the queue into Venlo where five big Dutch chaps bailed out of a steamy Golf, either that or they were...

Are you doing this to allow you to run the R32 ECU?

100% top advice from Supercharged, boiling water all over your legs and feet, not to mention instantly steamed up windows isn't good. Removing the valves without fitting a new VW genuine Golf 3 matrix is utter madness and if it causes injury to others, pray the plod doesn’t find out what you have done!

What is the engine code and car?

I hadn't read closely enough to notice the 24v engine. Stan, what ECU are you running?

Yes, a 9A 2L 16v one, 358 253 087. One from an ABF 2L 16v G3 may prove to be awkward as it is designed for a tall block.

Yes the 9A downpipe would fit but is still technically a different part to the G60 part.

Yes, but the "plug and play" V-Sam 1 units are like rocking horse 5h1t to find. I can still do the harness and Pro fuelling upgrade but the main ECU's are long out of production. If I could get them, I could still sell them!

The 8 and 16v down pipe will both fit but the 8v is 5-mm smaller so the system won't fit without an adapter and neither have the location for a lambda sensor. I use a G60 down-pipe on 2L 8v G2 conversions so I can run a cat bypass for a lambda sensor fitting (piggy back or aftermarket EMS) then into a 16v G2 system.

What you have missed there is the word "ICON". This was the piggy back unit referred to by Flusted and was a two dimensional intercept unit rather like the K-Star but it didn't control the fuelling. I went down to Superchips where they tried to install one of the prototype versions on a project car we were building so that must be back around 1994. After the unit burnt out for the second time and then fried the coil feed wiring (high idel dwell was the reason) I backed off and popped (literal) round the corner to see Racelogic who were just developing their early V-SAM which was 3D and would allow fuel mapping using a frequency valve.

Do you mean all Corrado VR6's or all VR6’s including Golf and Passat? ELSA quote (on Golf VR6 with AAA engine) The specifications for this test are dependent on fuel pump working pressures. ä 07.95 approx. 4 bar 08.95 ▸ approx. 3 bar

Use the genuine unit 1H0 919 651 Q £146.88 inc VAT retail.