Crasher

Basicaly where the bonnet pull would be on a LHD.

They are behind the heater duct on a bracket on the passenger’s side, a pair of them on a plastic carrier, but they rarely fail and most Corrado ABS problems are due to water in the ABS ECU.

If you buy a new genuine VW exchange unit they come with NGK and you can’t have a higher recommendation than that.

Synta Silver, non better.

They do that from short journey work; don’t worry about it until you see a definite lose of coolant.

Is the battery a Bosch Silver?

Hot air is the enemy!

"20 Nm ◆ Tightening torque influences the function of the knock sensor"

I'm just part way through one on a Golf 1 and I am using the system from a left hand drive G60 but a Corrado RHD with ABS would make a good donor as the servo would fit straight onto your servo bracket after swapping the operating clevis. The hardest part (without going to Golf 2 hubs) is the front speed sensor mounting points. One bridge I have yet to cross is that I have converted this car to a post 84 rear floorpan so like you (I presume it’s an 84 onwards model) I now have no rear pressure regulator and that’s could be a problem. The Golf 1 floorpan has negative offset steering geometry so that’s the main hurdle cleared.

So it's a 9A 2 litre 16v then?

VW tool or circlip pliers for tensionning cambelt tensionner (Snap On YA8640, Klann KL-0284-9, VAG Matra V159) VW tool, deep ring spanner, spark plug socket or an impact air gun! for removing strut top mount nuts (VW 3186 (5 stud) and 3078 (4 stud)). Elora make 21/23 and 22/24 very deep offset spanners that are very useful here and 7-mm (original) and 6-mm (some aftermarket) long hex keys are also needed. special slotted socket for removing slotted nut that holds down spring top plate on front suspension leg (Snap on YA8730, VW524) spring compressors for front conventional springs (OEM or aftermarket springs) (Various from Saur, Klann, Sykes, Matra etc) special pliers or plumbing wrench/mole grips for removing VW spring type water hose clamps (Snap On HCP 10 or VAG1921) 17mm hex key (or a wheel bolt with a thin 17mm spanner on it) for gearbox fill/drain plugs (Any decent tool supplier) spline bit set for headbolts and driveshaft flange bolts (M12 and M8 respectively, again from any decent tool supplier) extra long 3mm allen key for adjusting CO on metering head (1.8 16v only) [and for the 9A basic adjustments] (Snap On) a huge breaker bar (and preferably a scaffold pole on the end of it) to remove front hub nuts (Any decent tool supplier) caliper wind back tool for servicing rear brakes (Various such as Sykes Pickavant from Halfords and other Sykes agaents.)

A fault code read and you may get an immobiliser fault.

051 109 243 £44.65 inc. VAT from VW. Febi/INA ones are totally reliable, never had one fail-ever.

Fitting larger exhaust valves (forget the inlets) is serious work as it means new valve seats. These are made from incredibly hard metal and the whole job of insertion should be left to a qualified machine shop. The porting itself after the insertion is easy if tedious (with a good die grinder and very large capacity compressor) and porting kits are available from companies like Frost. 35-mm exhaust valves are easy to get from a number of VW tuners.

More than likely the hall sender inside the dizzy and as these are tricky to replace a new dizzy makes the most sense (051 905 237 X) and they cost £93.38 inc. VAT from any VW dealer and include a Bosch cap and rotor.

Different types of injection system so sensor hook up would be an issue and as far as I can remember, both have the same size butterflies.

If it is a late KR (91 ish on), you can use the one from the original engine.

If you use a 6A bottom end you need to swap the oil pump for one from a 9A and use a transverse install sump such as the KR one.

What is is, a VR6?

Location 3 is on the main group of twelve relays (above the row of fuses) where the top left is number 1 and the bottom right is number 12.

Didn't the 91 G60 also still have the early flat bonnet that won't close over a VR6 lump? And why build a car you can buy. As Dinkus says, 1.8T it.

Looks like the unit used on all Golf 2's (apart from the 89> 16v) but it is stronger. 191 199 262 E £62.73.

I like to convert to the old style rubber rear mount and use the Rallye mounting.

I had the same with a GSF mount when I ran out of Febi ones. I thought I had done something wrong until I realised it was the mount. So much stuff I get from GSF is utter crap, it may be cheap but it costs me money when we fit something that is faulty and it happens on a daily basis. Euro car parts aren’t any better either, I ordered a 150PD flywheel from the yesterday and they sent me a clutch. Today I had to send back some Brembo Passat discs to GSF. When the box arrived it smelt funny and looked damaged. When we opened it up the top disc had more rust on it than the ones we were taking off. When we called them up and remonstrated with them they said "ohh that’s because we keep them next to the bog and people keep pissing on them". Needles to say, hands were washed and the box then handled wearing gloves.

Better the devil you know than the one you don't.