Crasher

The one job that separates a good transplant from another-wiring. He should have connected the pump to the original fan run on relay or wired in the original V6 4M run on unit which is very much like a VR6 C unit. Any decent mechanic can do a transplant, how many can (or are given the budget to) wire one up correctly. The main reason for this is that a custom built loom can cost as much as the initial transplant and most people don’t worry about it until the wiring fails. How many transplants look like the wiring harness has been thrown at the engine and connected up where it landed?

Was your car a VR6 originaly?

Supersprint. The Magnex is OK (I helped them design it years ago) but I would still have the Supersprint any day.

Ohh no, not my flavour, far to trendy.

Would those be original or tangy cheese flavour?

Just done another this afternoon. I tried to get a pattern one (the lass was a bit low on funds) and my supplier advised me not to, he said buy genuine-so I did.

The Supersprint only fits left hand drive properly and can let air in that freaks out the lambda sensor.

Agree with Supercharged, frayed lambda wiring at the plug behind the engine on the mount bracket.

Brown/green pin 3 onto blue/white at pin 2. If you do this you can damage the fascia. Really you should put a 75Ω resistor across these pins to simulate approx 100°c.

I have done so many of these I have lost count. I am just doing two on Golf 2's at the moment and gave one back last week so it is popular. Presumably the car is a 1.8 KR? A 9A Corrado bottom end will slot straight under your KR head and give you a reliable 150PS. If the second hand 9A you find is worn out, you can exchange the bottom end for a genuine VW unit for just under £1K from any dealer. It’s a lovely conversion especially when topped off with a stage 1 gas flowed head and standard KR cams, well a KR inlet cam as the KR and 9A exhaust cams are the same.

One (the back one next to the gearbox) is for what is known as line 50 which is the solenoid command using the thick red/black wire. The other terminal (behind the radiator) is called 15a and is used as a starter cranking live output that was used on K-Jet models to power the cold start injector during cranking and had a black wire going to it.

For a 98 Polo 1.4 with either an AFH or AFK engine, it is 036 906 051 which costs £138.94 inc. VAT from VW. You don't have to remove the manifold on that one.

Sorry but it’s not a MAF, it’s a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor and Inlet Air Temp (IAT) sensor all in one. Very prone to going wrong and one I did last week on a Fabia (am I allowed to use that word on here?) meant removing the inlet manifold.

If it is OK cruising at a constant speed then the thermostat is probably OK, I would guess that your cooling fan is only cutting in on the second speed.

Easy to change if absolutely stupid money for a piece of rubber pipe. Feed 021 133 990 K £35.90 Return 021 133 988 K £35.90 You will need four hose clips, N 906 867 01 £0.69 each.

No, I fitted it when it came back as the bumper has to come off.

I found the duct was missing when I sent the car to Jabba for mapping and they told me it would be down on power without it, which makes good sense. Something I like to do is cut out and mesh the wheel arch liner behind the cooler; the theory being that air flows better if it has somewhere to go.

Very difficult to put figures to but the change is dramatic and the most important change you can make to the head.

When I need one a few weeks back they were on back order from VW. The number is 535 145 937 A for a 1990 G60.

Standard 40-mm inlet valves and 2-mm larger 35-mm exhaust valves, worth every penny.

Change the operating cables.

The main reason is to reduce NOX emissions on the overrun.

It seems to work OK, when I did one I was a little sceptical that it wasn't going to work but so far so good.

Could be injector leaking causing a loss of holding pressure in the lines which makes the fuel boil and vaporize and that causes an air lock in the lines.

Don't mess with the 3-mm screw under the bung; it is a sketch to reset meaning a VAG adapter wiring harness, a sensitive multimeter capable of reading under 200Ma and VAG-COM to set it in basic adjustment mode.