Crasher

The two feed hose only go back to the plastic (and totally reliable) lines on the inner wing but they are silly money at £40.91 for the feed and £29.16 for the return. Slightly off topic I know but the feed hose for a Golf 2 PB engine has now gone obsolete but you can use the G60 one, although how long before that goes obsolete and we have to make do with off the roll pipe which needs to be run a lot further to take the curvature and seems to perish far quicker?

The reason the 9A makes less power than a KR is the inlet cam profile, so it can work with a catalyst-but it makes more torque which is the real thing, unlike Bu115h1t Horse Power. Use a 9A with a KR inlet cam in a 1.8 KR Corrado and you will see roughly 150PS. Those that say 170PS+ are dreaming. I built a 2.2 KR with Kent GF1602 cams and it made 174PS on K-Jet and when I rebuilt it into an ABF block with the KR head/Kent cams and Weber Alpha 45's it made 197PS. It is possible to get 200PS from a 9A with throttle bodies and very silly cams but it makes the car a pig to drive in daily use.

One of my mechanics had one bust on him last week all over a red hot engine, great fun!

Run the list by me by all means, I would be only too glad to help. Info for the 9A can be awkward to come by. The head bolt washer (056 103 377) question is confusing as I have never bought any like that new but have removed them from earlier KR engines. When I buy new head bolts (I always use FEBI), they always come with integrated non removable washers. If you ever get onto head bolts for the ABV and metal gaskets, that can get confusing as different manufactures have different opinions as to whether or not there is a difference between bolts for composite and metal gaskets although in this case they are referring to the Sharan/T4 VR6 engine. I forgot to mention the bolt part numbers, 027 103 385 C for composite gaskets and 053 103 385 for metal gaskets.

No, that

It depends on the spec of the sender. If it is VDO, look on the spanner flats at the base and see if it says 0.3 or 1.8 bar. Is it a dual sender, with two connections?

The late ADY (and AGG) uses the 048 103 383 D, the earlier ADY and 2E uses the B, the only difference being one is composite and the other metal. The D should fit, what is the problem?

There is no average as it varies with revs and temperature, just the standard test of a minimum 2 bar at 2000 rpm at 80

I thought the point of a Wiki was accuracy! The head bolt torque setting is 40 Nm, then 60Nm then 90+90 degrees. If you torque them to 40 lbft that is 55.25Nm and 60 lbft is 81.34Nm so by the time you have applied 180 degrees you will have exceeded the yield point of the head bolt. The head bolts are differentiated by ridges on the head of the bolt so bolt A is for composite gaskets and bolt B is for metal gaskets.

The pump is 034 121 010 BX (current exchange number) and has been used in so many cars from the mid eighties until 2003 that it would be impossible to list them all. As the pump is difficult and time consuming to get at on a PG I would suggest you fitted a genuine VAG exchange unit as these only cost £34.8 inc. VAT for a complete unit and they come with a two year guarantee that covers you for labour as well should it fail inside the warranty. The fan has also been used on lots of different cars (1H0 959 455 D) and there are other fans it can be interchanged with. As these are £183.63 from VW I can see the point in finding a used part but be careful as the plug design changed subtly and it is possible to fit the early plug onto a late fan and damage the fan internally. Check that the alignment slots of the plug on your car align with the raised sections on the replacement fan connection and that they aren’t just slightly off.

Do a pressure test, it should be an absolute minimum of 2 bar @ 2000 rpm @ 80

The inlet valves are 40-mm as standard and I leave them that size but change the exhausts to 35-mm. I am in Nottingham and no one local can do this work properly so I send mine to two companies down south, one for inserting the seats/skimming and the other for the porting work

The tool is 3278 and costs £15.38 from VW + VAT. The VW text goes; "If a new fitting tool (funnel) is used to install the pistons, first pass piston with oiled piston rings twice through the tool and then if necessary remove the resulting metal shavings. Only then install piston with piston rings. ? Oil tool and push piston in by hand. High point of the piston crown must face to the lug on the fitting tool -arrow-. ? Hold tool (with piston inserted) on upper edge and press piston in with both thumbs. ? Push piston in until it protrudes approx. 15 mm from the lower edge of the fitting tool. ? Place piston in appropriate cylinder bore. Lug on fitting tool -arrow- must face to centre of cylinder block. ? Hold fitting tool tight against cylinder block and push piston in."

Hasn't it already been there Kev?

The ABF metal gasket is VW number 048 103 383 D, Elring 627.810, Goeze 30-027930-00 or Reinz 61-29305-00. This gasket is suitable for bores up to 83.5-mm and should fit a PG block.

In right hand drive, they are both the same part number, 027 253 031 BH.

PG block?

Change the lambda sensor and possibly the leads/plugs as well. This is very common on the 2L 8v.

The brown 0.3 bar switch (056 919 081 C) has been replaced by a blue 0.25 bar that was 028 919 081 D but which is now 028 919 081 H and the white switch was 056 919 081 E but is now 056 919 081. They both retail at £9.65 from VW.

Are we talking cam or ignition timing here? To get the cam timing wrong on a 16v you would have to be a complete numpty. It is more likely that it is an ignition timing issue.

That

I know this should go in the Diavia thread but stay with me. I have been given the appalling task of fitting an ancient Diavia system into a Golf 2. Not only is the system from an 8v and I have to fit it into a 16v, but the system must have been literally ripped out of the other car. The seller on flea bay has basically washed his hands of this system and won't help. I have the system all in and running but I have run into difficulty with the pressure sensor on the receiver drier in identifying the wiring into the relays. If anyone has the wiring diagrams for a Mk2 or owns a Corrado/Mk2 with the system, I would so much appreciate a little feedback as to which wire does what/goes where. The Mk3 diagram on the Diavia thread is nothing like this.

Get it set up properly.

Have you checked the large rubber air boot for cracks in the base of the grooves? I have changed two recently on 9A's (one a Passat and one a Corrado). I can't see a cast aluminium housing going porous enough to upset an engine but rubber boots do split. It is often impossible to tell they are split unless you remove them as they crack underneath.

Did you set the timing with the ECU in basic adjustment mode?