dannyboy

1-check for spark- take spark plug out earth it to engine and turn engine over 2-check for fuel - you'll smell it from exhaust if spark isnt working but injectors are(also check the connector for the injectors) To me it sounds like youve got a loose conection somewhere in the fuse/relay box. when you say it didnt start after it did before,did it crank or did the starter not do anything?

finally got the ecu to communicate with vagcom and paid for a licence so hopefully sometime today i can perform a Throttle body adpation so the 20v stays in,for the moment.

bad news, new pedal still didnt solve the problem and i cant access the ecu through diagnosic cable On vagcom it finds the interface but doesnt get a response from any controllers.If i cant find the problem(it has to be ecu) then im taken the 20v back out k-line to pin7 dia socket earth to pin4 dia socket live to pin10 dia socket are these correct? in about three hours i make the dicission to take 20v out and g60 goes back in

Ordered a new DBW pedal yesterday,pick it up this morning. Think the pinouts on the TDI pedal i was given are different.Ill just have to find out today. If the pedal doesnt solve the problem of not being able to rev then,ill have no choice be to put the g60 back in as my misses needs her car for work(ive been using hers). So its make or break day today whether i keep the 20v in or go back to g60. Ill probably go back to 20v at a later stage if the pedal doesnt work but its my daily so i cant keep it off the road any longer

cheers for encouragement guys,would of dropped the g60 lump back in by now. Im missing page 10 of 1990 wiring diagram(one after the digifant relay+fuel pump relay) which is still causing me problems.It could be something simple,i dont know. Major problem i was having was i was only getting 3.5 volts on switched live using a relay for coil packs common earth. So i gave it a constant 12v feed and it burst into life. Also the ABS light is staying on but pump runs,strange.all sensors are connected.

After four days of head banging electrics my 20vt burst into life.... But my DBW pedal isnt responding.and it has very tempermental starts.Sometimes straight start,others it needs two-three cranks. Ive been cross referencing three different parts which nearly broke me-Ecu is from APX engine which is good because its an APX engine but the wiring loom is from a unknown 1.8t(maybe golf?) and doesnt have cruise control and some of the wires are different colours or end in different places.Next i have confirmed that i have a 1990 g60 wiring as the wiring is a bit different than other and caused a massive headache.I have the bentley on disc and the one page i need on the disc is not showing up(maybe disc data is missing?) Happy but not happy...if you know what i mean. :lol: ---------- Post added at 07:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:31 PM ---------- Vagcom not reading the ecu either...hmmmm maybe sometimes wrong?!!

Got a bit futher today,engine out and swapped the pedal box for the DBW one.tomorrow i start wiring in the harnesses so fingers crossed i goes off without a problem. 3 litres of vw's finest coolant,g12++

three screws in the wheel arch and one where front of the duct meets the bumper on the back of the bumper.it will slot back into the plastic on the wheelarch too Be aware he might be trying to put the brake duct onto the intercooler duct or vise versa. You cant really get them wrong as the intercooler duct is much bigger

Ferrets are cute mate,marders aint! One of the guys in my place was changing a headlight in a car and one was in the engine bay.Gave him a evil snarl and ran off!He jump ten foot back when he saw it and sh@t himself Then again i wont blame the marder if i had to look at has ugly mug!! :lol: ---------- Post added at 08:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:14 PM ---------- Well after a three month setback,i decided it time to get that 1.8t lump in the car and have some fun.Got lots of hoses and bits to make sure i can do it in a oner! Found that when using the Golf G60 intercooler some of the raddo G60 boost hoses fit nearly perfect on the left hand side from what i can see.only time will tell Started at 5 pm today,nearly ready to be lifted by 8 pm.Lady luck was probably on my side as most bolts and nuts came off easy with the exception of the cat bolts+nuts. Drive shafts and mounting bolts to do tomorrow then old lump out.Would be easier if i had a second person as i working alone at the moment,might annoy the father-in-law tomorrow to help All electrical disconnected,hoses off,exhaust nearly done,just drive shafts and mounting bolts to go,fifthteen minute job Anyone wondering the Golf G60 intercooler compared to the stock raddo G60 one,just a tiny bit of difference Decided to go against buying so-call synthetics that VW recommends and go with a full group 4 synthetic.Damage 70 euro. Better than the so called synthetic designed specificaly for newer VWs so they dont harm the cat converter which will light a wallet by 90 euro!!! :eek:

Lets all agree everyone has their own taste before it turns into full on argument. As said if you own a 6 cylinder raddo,only replace it with a 6 cylinder.their power delivery is smooth,low down torquey and has a lovely noise when flooring it.However theyre a thirsty engine and slighty heavier up front meaning more understeer. The corrado 1.8t lacks the refinement of the 6 cylinders no doubt about it(well the smooth running ones anyway) but makes up on accelaration,cornering and easier on fuel making it a good daily.Plus cheaper to upgrade and tune as its a common engine.but agreed only stick a 4 banger in a 4 banger car

Your worrying too much about nothing alex!!Every engine will wear slighty uneven due to small natural differences like the rings,bores,valves,cams,shell bearings,etc I share your worries as you would think 3 bar is a massive difference between cylinders but VW engineers set it at that limit for a reason.but id say the engine would run pretty lumpy if one cylinder was down by 2 bar and blownby would be pretty bad. Are the bosch super 4 W6DPO platium?Originals use a platium single core.Dont think theres much probs using super 4s,they just wont last as long

I believe(not 100% sure) that theres a diode to the rev counter that you can bridge to get rev counter working or just buy signal converter from jabba.black temp sender wired to the display with give you correct temp

Its true guys,well over here in germany.Anything from VW that goes obselete over here, UK shorty follows.Ive tried to pick up a filter from the stealer two months ago,no joy. Original filter is made by MAHLE so just pick up one of them,or good alternative BOSCH or MANN ones

if its a valver(you havent metioned what engine you have) check the cold start device,others check the fuel filter as said earlier.Have you checked for spark?

Steel washers as spacers on brakes!!! :cowboy:

The whole point of this is that you dont need mk3 cables,you just do this 10 minute mod and your done,instead of dropping the exhaust just to get access to the gear shifter which is a pain.so how is swapping mk3 cables easier? 5th gear is a overdrive gear in these boxes,not designed for power.4th in asd box is like 5th in a ATA box.Some people use their corrado's as daily's so saving money on petrol makes prefect sense,petrol is not getting any cheaper is it? A few people have fitted these to their G60s and valvers as these engines develop torque.Horsepower is to do with the top-end preformance which 99% of raddo drivers dont use all the time.This gearbox change mod is for people with more common sense rather than a big wallet!!

no worries si,glad to help

Greeny i havent seen your car mate,sorry and glad for you.Glad your getting it sorted! One of my buddies was down the nurburgring yesterday and seen a g60 get written off into a barrier,felt sad

compression is good alex,mine are about the same 11 bar hot. Whats the score with the wet/dry tests? you mean spoon of oil down the bore? Standard G60 compression 8-12 bar wear limit 6 bar. maximum 3 bar difference across cylinders ---------- Post added at 07:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:17 PM ---------- oh forgot.. get proper bosch w6dpo plugs in your engine man!they last longest and best plugs for g60

cheers man,spent ages writing and getting pics together.

For all the people out there who would like squeeze bit more economy out of their corrado or prehaps want to use the torque of their engine a bit more efficiently without ruining the fun,the gearbox from a Mk3 Golf TDi is a welcome addition and upgrade.This Mod is suitable for all 4 cylinder raddos,but VRs have different bell housing i believe. Many people report the diesel box is stronger but nobody can confirm this.Since diesel engines use lots of torque ,you'd expect VW to strengthen the box but nobody can say! There are a varitey of boxes available and can come from different cars.As long as its a 02A box and not a syncro model box.Generally the passat,golf,vento and others in the 1.9 TDi range share the same 5 speed box.Other VAG cars will be similar but i cant confirm any vehicles that use them.The codes will differ as some will have different gearing.The two most common boxes are-the CTN and the ASD.These boxes are a direct bolt-on to 4 cylinder raddos except ones with 90mm drive flanges(very early models).The only problem that this mod has is the shifter tower is differrent on mk2 than mk3 The CTN box is by far the most popular upgrade.It has similar 1st,2nd,3rd gears as normal but with a longer 4th and 5th for motorway driving.These boxes will be more expensive than the ASD because of the this and one everyone goes for. The ASD box has longer gears throughout and holds the longest gear ratio in fifth in the 02A box range making it brilliant for cruising on the motorway and saving fuel. But some find 1st gear a pain in traffic as its longer and more likely to stall if realese the clutch too quick.Its usually cheaper and for around £100 or less you can pick these up. This will pay for itself and more in the fuel return after a single year! The only problem is the MK3 shifter tower is different than MK2 tower. The left is mk2 and right is mk3 Left is mk2 The shifter is also shorter,so if you use mk2 one you wont be able to get 3rd,4th or 5th internally different too. Mk3 16mm mk2 15mm To get the gearcables to fit a Mk3 tower a very simple mod is needed. On the MK3 shifter tower you will notice a black plastic joiner which acts to hold one lever to the tower and acts as a pivot point This is removed by undoing the m8 bolt that secures it to the gearlever.Ive removed the shifter tower to make it easier to photograph. Next mark plastic with small cut just where the webbing on the plastic stops rising Then remove the bolt inside the plastic by gently tapping it out Cut the top peice of the plastic top off so your left with this Fit this peice back in the shifter tower Now secure the plastic to insure it doesnt fall out with a cable tie or just stick it(cable tie is best as it can be removed again) Place the cable tie at the bottom of the webbing so it wont go anywhere Trim the excess off the cable tie and refit the shifter tower with a bit of sealant on the mating surface.Make sure you aline the little cup notch or it wont go in Secure the tower down using the two m8 bolts and attach the gearcables.Remember to use the old mk2 attachment bolts and remember the square nut goes inbetween the change lever rather than under. Be aware that that the old mk2 had adjustment for left-to-right plane only on the gearbox(forward-to-back was in the car).The mk3 has adjustment for foward-to-back adjustment too on the shift tower so it might take a bit of adjustment to get it right.Also youll notice its a bit tighter on the vertical linkage due to 8-10mm height difference but it wont effect the gear changes. It TDi box will feel different as you have to work the box a bit more but you'll get used to it after a while and provided you drive normal 90% of the time you'll notice better MPG in a short while. Obviously some people love having short gearing,it down to personal preference.But for those who'd like longer gearing invest in a TDi box is easiest way.Or just change fifth gear! Dan

plugs are good then. Are you sure its not the fuelling thats not spot on? Mine stutters a bit when i floor it right after the digi-lag disappers which i can put down to the chip not beening 100% correct for the few mods ive put on my g60.Feels like my car wants to go,then doesnt,then decides lets get going.This only occurs on WOT so mines deffo down to mapping

Go 20vt!!!I was in the same dilema as you. Cheaper,better and more reliable in the long run.im 3/4 finished mine but reason took me so long was i was sold a duff engine. Only drama you'll have is the wiring which is taken care on by aftermarket ECU or do it like me and use OEM ECU+wiring with DBW & cruise control(i hope).But it takes quite a while to wire in yourself (OEM ECU)and you will need some electrical knowledge.Might even keep it a standard 225 ps to stop the tyres going bald too quick!

were them plugs in the engine long? the core looks very white in comparasion to lot of the plugs ive gone through.I spent ages trying to get the fuelling right.THe plugs should have a brown tan on the core and white were spark tips are and 9/10 times black carbon on the outside on of the plug. Yours would suggest your running very lean or the timing is too advanced.or your plug is too hot for your mods(highly unlikely unless your cracking 250 ps on standard W6DP0) It depends on the mods you have done to the engine,timing can be effected.Obvouisly the more advance you give on the timing, the faster the flame front right upto detenation which then your engine will pull the timing back.

Upto early 92 used cable drive,the changeover happened mid 91. Only early G60s and valvers had them