dannyboy

sorry guys the raise an old post,i just stopped the post. is there a picture as the link doesnt work anymore? Reason beening that car could of been my car that burst into flames

tempting fate there kip.... :lol:

ill stick with the stuff i got then,does all the above anyway and costs me nothing. and think its made by a large company called fuchs ive used it on all my cars and never had a prob(even when my crazy german wife drives :lol: )

whats oil level like at the moment? it happens in first but you said it does it intermit on the motorway too. does it happen under load when revving 2500-3500?or happen on overrun? last time i had a thrust bearing go it sounded more like a skate board on concrete all the time when it wasnt in gear and disppeared when you pressed the clutch

bit of of a question.. whats the difference between g12 and normal ethylene gycol? lots of people swap for g12,just wanted to know if theres a majour difference?

60 litres of g12 :shock: thats one hell of an airlock!!!! :lol: is 50/50 not meant for colder climates? i put 60/40 over here and it does get down to -25

I agree with the above but check your thermostat too.mines overcooling too at the moment so car never really leaves cold enrichment mode hence overfuelling. Seems to be the thermostat isnt closing fully or is one of the lower degree types. had the indicator stalk prob too.got some electrical cleaner on the contacts as its was covered in grease.easy fix

Think your in the wrong forum fellow.....Corrados have hydraulic lines. You dont need to take pedal box off renew the clutch cable ,about half an hour, i assume its one of the self-adjusting type.Renew the cable as the old one will be stretched Is the small piece part of the pedal or is it part of the cable?It would be unusual for the part to break off the pedal

safety device,it is supposed to protect the passagers foot from getting scoulded by hot coolant should the heater matrix fail.pressure difference closes it in the event it does blow out

bypass valve goosed,changed mine two weeks ago as it was excat same as yours (found one off a golf,same part number) and now.... lovely red-hot heat Found the internalls had collapsed slighty restricting flow(but not stopping it)Mine would blow warmish air on 1,colder on 2 and 3+4 was just straight in

i wouldnt be surpised if the last idiot who had the car put cheap ones on,he has lied about lots on the car. I usually pre-load the bearings(tighthen til the wheel no longer easily rotates,then back off til the washer can by moved with screwdriver) but i was worried these little bearings can take that kind of stress,without prematurely buggering them(im am used to bearings as big as the front brake disc!them are a bit beefer :lol: ) ill have a look at weekend,because im busy but from what is seen the carrier was the one that was moving,play was prob due to the pads.seems more like flex. I did check the calpier allen key bolts(8mm i think)they were tight,and the carrier bolts were also good.

i just tore mine out cause it was pi$$ing oil anyway.just removed the circlip and pop,out they came

hi guys, bit of an odd one but i drove home last night and back off my car shook very bady doing 60 mph. and it happened suddenly.the gremblins have started :( ive just replaced my tyres with winters on borbet A's,so i thought i was being a bit of an idot and forgot to torque tighten the wheelnuts when i brought car to my father-in-laws garage i checked the torque and it was fine,but found something worse. i could move the whole assembly,so wheel off and time to check the bearings. i took the cover off, split pin out and locking retainer off and moved the 24mm nut by hand :shock: i know their taper roller bearings and the washer should be able to be moved with a screwdriver but surely not this loose!! Im asking does anyone preload the bearings and back off till the washer can move? or does this cause these wimpy bearings to break? ive done it already and it seems good now. the other side isnt great but not as bad as l/h side was.I think the :cowboy: who worked on it before just tightened it up til washer didnt move and backed off. :bad-words: also are the calpiers supposed to have little play in them?thought sliding ones did,but need your opinon ideas guys?

that happened to one of mine, except the seal jammed the throttle wide open and went screaming down the road. :lol: Wasnt funny at the time though! :pale: that displacer can be repaired. i use something called E-metal(epoxy metal) its a chemical metal you mix that sets like metal and is quite strong and light. apply it ,let it set and use a dremel to shape the channels.or maybe you can get tig weld on it,not sure with the displacer(metal is alloy)

the recirc pipe has two functions:- 1)reduce noise by venting excess boost back to the charger 2)a means of getting crankcase gases into intake system a G60 is whats called positive-displacement type.Basically it means this charger is always developing more boost than the engine can use(upto a certain point where the charger cant flow anymore air than it can pump ie high rpms) on idle and part throttle the engine cant use all the boost so it uses a bypass valve to vent the excess boost created by the supercharger back into the charger.this charged air is hot.not good for engine or power.Venting boost with the pipe off will get give you the characteristic whoosh on closing the throttle when building the boost but it vents boost nearly all the time apart from full throttle.Listening to the venting of this boost for 8 hours does get pretty annoying (a bit like having a loud exhaust drone for 8 hours) so yes you will be getting boost venting on idle For preformance wise,you dont gain much but on hotter weather your charger will run cooler extending its life and your charge temps will drop,lessing power reduction (knock sensor detecting detonation). Personal from owning G60s for 8 years, you want recirc pipe on for the winter as itll warm your engine up quicker(tried and tested) and youll use less fuel warming it up. the age old argument about lubruction of the charger still goes on but my friends near wolfsburg knows one of the developers of the g60 charger and he said it was not intended to be lubed by engine oil mist or crankcase vapour(hence added a heater to the breather pipe) This is why the seals have a finite life and shrink in time its just upto you how you feel youd live with it or without it hope clears things up

45 mpg on a 10 mile run, id never get that even if i tried dave :lol: glad you got it sorted :clap: just get o-ring set(always come in handy) and replace idle bleed screw o-ring.as said they get old and you idle will be all over the place.i always like to change old parts with VAG parts but for a o-ring, 50p or £11(its christmas :lol: )

how have you checked idle switch on TBH? the temp sesnor could diff be a culprit,maybe lamba sensor?

Have you disconnected it when engine was on?thats a big no,no! i believe it burns out the coil drivers for the ISV when you unplug it while engines on mine does that now and again(clicking) but mine idles at 700 rpm(i know its a bit low) but if its rocky steady why adjust it?

no worries dave,only done mine last month(on my g60).i never trust a german mechanic,thats why i do it myself! Great when the car has OBD2 but useless when it doesnt! :lol: They wanted me to fork out nearly 2000 euro for a ABS pump(i was having a lazy week!) :shock: :cuckoo: and i fixed it myself for 7 euro for a relay!

id say the bogging down could be due to the dizzy timing dave. Yeah the procedure is pretty mauch the same:- 1) warm engine up til fan cuts in twice 2)remove breather hose 3)turn off all electrical loads 4)unplug temp sender 5)loosen dizzy retaining bolt and with a strobe light check timing 6-8 degrees while engine is at 2500-3000 rpm 6)tighten bolt 7)refit breather and sensor 8)take her for a spin

alright david, if your plugs are oiling up sounds like oil scraper rings are worn.youll still get good compression though but youll burn oil quite a bit.Sorry only way around it is replace them. might be worth looking at the valve stems too,when they get old oil leaks past them into combustion chamber. Worth looking at the airflow meter.lot of the old 8v gti ones were prone to the flap sticking and the contacts getting covered in grease. all i used to do was open it and spray contact cleaner on it,wipe it,spray one more time to make sure its clean.Put it back together and check to see if the flap moves freely without jamming or getting stuck.check all the vacuum hoses too.

thats pretty much what i do but i give the mechanism a lick of grease after(stuff i use is heavy and dosent come straight off after car wash)

get some windscreen spray de-icer on there for a quick fix.

all three of the G60s ive had had the same prob every year.Most be quite common. Waiting for the delivery of my winter tyres and then im going to give mechanism good clean and regrease.always seems to solve 90 % of the problem

Funny you have this problem jim,mine is just started doing the same last night! I just got under the car and twatted the arm mechanism with a small hammer and drift+ put a little grease on the arm. wondered why my rear brake discs starting to look like my fronts :lol: mine has the usual play in the h/brake handle and not return on spring pressure. i just leave mine in gear after freeing it off otherwise im back to square one :mad2: