dannyboy

mines was almost the same but im had probs with just one of the release catches not letting go. bonnet wont open on one side until i get someone to hold down the side that opens to get it the other side to open. i pretty sure its just a small screw on the slam panel release mech,pull cable slack through,and tigthen up just one of them annoying little jobs that takes two mins and hands like a contortionist

hi guys, was doing a little bit of digging and found that some germans are running a FMIC off a citroen dispatch\jumpy.Looks like quite a good alternative to the rallye \golf g60 item and alot cheaper too! about £95 to £110 for brand new one.and Also,not 100% sure about corrado but it doesnt need cutting of the towing eye leg to fit. anyone running one? heres one on german fleabay http://cgi.ebay.de/Ladeluftkuhler-LLK-V ... 43a45d2765

if its running fine i wouldnt worry about it. There was discussion about the timing belt on the g60 with the rocker cover gasket needed to be on to check the timing or the timing was out. ive done the timing belt like you and like you ive also encountered this problem.What also comes into account is if the head has been skimmed?how much the last guy tightened the rocker gasket upto?there are lots of little things that add up that isnt taking into account when manuals are made

allright there, id simply have a look at the pedal first,something you forgot to plug in?or accidentally kicked off a plug? check the resistance of the accel pedal.its basicaly a variable pontentiometer so as you press the pedal the resistance will increase or decrease. doubt it would be a fried ecu as it starts and idles fine but dont overlook it Throttle body allignment switch?whats that? or do you mean throttle postion sensor(TPS). The TPS shouldnt need to be done as just another type of variable pontentiometer and is already calibrated once you turn on the ignition.

doesnt matter if you let air out of normal summers(but that works good in sand) Winter tyres have more silica compound in them that stops the tyre itself from get stiff at lower temps.as summer tyres stiffen at lower temps they cant adpat to the road surface which in turn means less grip.letting air out wont change anything,as ben said itll make it worse cause it cant disperse the snow under the tyre

ive got 'cheapy' winter tyres on and they make a big difference.you can still slide but they help massively. not a big fan of remoulded tyres but they have been tuv tested and theyre quite good. Does anyone else get wheel wobble when snow builds up on the inside of the wheels?

im not going home to ireland this year so no decent guinness for me :lol: Weather ok in ireland? :scratch: do you mean its raining,sounds more like the normal one :grin:

the v-bands self center the flanges as you tighten them up.never had probs with flat flange ones.except when your working at 3am in freezing cold,p!ssed wet through,in the middle of nowhere,changing red-hot pack thats blown up.

i love airports....not

sorry didnt see last post dukest My bad....

im with ben on this one would you drive with bald tyres in the rain?of course not,its the LAW.People would do it if it wasnt but what happens when you hit a puddle and the car your driving hits another car with kids in it and .... bit extreme but its happened that many times and still happens.people only learn when its too late.you can drive the car but it its dangerous having the right tyres for the conditions should be law.Tyres are the only part of a car that touches the ground,you can have the biggest brakes in the world but theyre only as good as the tyres youve got on the car If someone smashes into your pride and joy because the the tyres they have on theyre car isnt suited for the conditions youll change your tune very quickly ignorance is no excuse Yes no amount of tyres for any condition will make a bad driver a better one.And the old 'itll never happen to me cause im a good driver' doesnt stop the clown with sh!te tyres writing your baby off

Good to hear shes running well again.Putting mine to bed til april.Then some ring time,even though its a 3-4 hour drive from walsrode.

Man you think thats bad,ive been D!(ked to go to batus for winter repair for four months. and its colder than germany!!! Its great being a bullet and tour dodger!! :rambo: Do they have them repair kits on ebay for the door handle.Thats why i love corrados,fix one thing-another five things break :bonk:

might want to have a look in the engine bay forum fellow!!!

i can say that they are brillant but a tad expensive. They are used alot on the vehicles i work on exhaust and inlet. they are quite popular on turbo exhaust fittings

Get some AL39 in there, i use it in my g60.used it in all my vws and never had a prob. p.m me i can sort you out something reference work shop manual

Well look at it this way,im doing mine tomorrow if i can get to work after 27 inches of snow hit the ground then into a freezing cold shed and get scoulded by hot coolant

massage the hose of the rad by squeezing quickly then slowly releasing.found this way gets coolant into the rad. its prob caused by the thermostat get hot on one side only so not opening properly hence coolant not activing the thermo switch. get coolant round whole system and should solve your prob

oh boy, ive got 27 inches of snow coming to where i live in germany.not even snow tyres have any grip(bring on the chains!!!! :lol: ) quite funny driving home from work today,my raddo turned into bit of a snow plough.germans are quite switched on and roads are usually clear but theyre having trouble clear it where i live. my garden is three feet of snow at moment and worried the car wont get out tomorrow :(

give me a minute and ill double check thats correct. yeah its spring end faces towards front of the car(towards the sensor housing),it is a vr6 i presume?

not to insult your intelligence but did you put the thermostat the right way around?

youll need a linkage setup as theyll be different lengths than off the bike,you cant really use originals. your fuel pump is way too high a pressure to use with carbs, max pressure would be around 1 bar.maybe an electric lift pump. you may get a few bhp but you need to get the jetting right otherwise itll run like crap. also be aware at this time of the year your carbs will be prone to icing

mine snapped once on the way to work going over a clobbled road ar$e ache to get bushes on the arm back on

no theres no procedure to plug the ecu back in other than obvious disconnect the battery first. Youll have to ask the guys about motronic,if it has a learn function(not sure about it).some ecus do and plugging it for some time will delete all the learned periameters.all you need to do is drive it to get it to relearn wouldnt cause you to overfuel,just remember its cold this time of year and engine dumps more fuel in to warm up. glad to see thermostat helped

GL4 is the correct oil.2 liters to fill. Right ive had a good look and i almost guarantee its the bearings in the box.i reckon the output shaft as they have a taper-roller bearing and one needle bearing and first and fifth are on the output shaft.the load acting on that side of the box when in first is causing the bearing to whine(plus little bit in fifth) as their on same shaft id say its the wrong oil that caused it.gl5 shouldnt really cause a prob,as its just got more aditives in it than gl4 but i stick to 75w90 as my last box had 189k miles on it without a prob