dannyboy
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Everything posted by dannyboy
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try easiest stuff first:- What state is your battery in?How old is the fuel?In fuel filter clogged?HT leads got any signs of cracks?they can be very,very small cracks but still cause misfire especially when wet is dizzy timing is out slighty or blue temp sensor is busted?.Remember dizzy timing has to be set dynamicaly ie.. at 2500 rpm with temp sensor disconnected and all electrics off. a slight back fire means its not running properly even only on overrun.Metering head set right?Injectors spraying correctly?
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yep,mine broke month ago and got to the stage where linkage jumped off the pin leaving me coasting to a parking area cause i had no gears. two m6 or m8 washers and split pin later, permanent fix and much better changes
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I love that mate, delivery is going to cost more than the gearbox itself :bonk: been there,quite a few times
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nice one alex, the code for box is just beside clutch slave cylinder on the bell housing,small flat ledge.Think you may have CTN which is what you want although the ASD came with the balance shift weight too. Ive got an ASD box on mine,first gear is a little long which is a bit of a pain in traffic and getting up ramps on ferries otherwise the box is brilliant. Should see better fuel economy,depends how you use the gears and the torque.Third gear is the best as all the torque is used properly in this gear all the way upto 100 mph Also reverse uses a helical gear cogs so doesnt make noise in reverse that straight cut gears make.Not important,just info. By the way i found the original shift tower is better than mk3 one on the box.its slighty different but causes dramas when changing gear,sometimes difficult selection.either way youll need to remove balance weight(only one bolt) as it fouls everything in a g60,especially the boost hoses Wonder why post hasnt been moved to drivetrain, lol
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This is good one to watch,im scrapping my 1.8t project as ill prob go same route as you! still in the collecting info stage. You running the high pressure injection system? No idea about the box,think it would be best to run one that comes with the engine and get custom driveshafts
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its theyre type,some injectors are long some short so they have type codes to standardise them. G60s use EV1 type,high impedance 14 ohm ones.the injector driver gets damaged if you use the wrong type ie. low impedance injectors
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both ev1 type?
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My first ever Corrado! (16v tuning advise please)
dannyboy replied to Sparkkadian's topic in Engine Bay
Never a truer word said!!!! :) -
treating her to some preimum contact 2's and hand waxed her.... she shines!
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higher pressures mean a more harsh ride. i stick to about 32-30 for daily comfort. My back is getting any better! ;)
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My first ever Corrado! (16v tuning advise please)
dannyboy replied to Sparkkadian's topic in Engine Bay
1.8t for power and relability,VR6 and G60 for awesome noise,G60 would be easier, as for a vr6 coversion you need different subframe,struts and other stuff. Dont build what you can buy! -
cheers dude,one to steer clear of!!
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nice one mark,im diffo going to have a look. But im spilt between 1.8t conversion,G60 turbo or aftermarket ecu for g60 with wideband,large injectors...etc just weighing them one against the other,im not a impulse buyer,i have to study
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drink more,wont notice the wobble as much But then it leaves the problem of not beening able to drive the car :)
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expensive to develop them emulators so id like to think that only the big companies would have them but it would be very nice to get my hands on them.Could self-map after designing a loom on a set of rollers. I can only dream ;)
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i second that Think Sachs or LUK are OEM anyway
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is it doing on hard full throttle(foot to the floor?)
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Theres two types of readings for MFA boost check!
dannyboy replied to dannyboy's topic in Engine Bay
I think it will only work on on a g60 as the ecu controls the fueling,the valvers use metering head not the ecu.you wont get boost reading because its not charged. Maybe youll get vacuum readings?maybe on a VR? never had a valver corrado but had mk2 gti valver but that didnt have mfa function -
Theres two types of readings for MFA boost check!
dannyboy replied to dannyboy's topic in Engine Bay
read this link.about halfway down the page http://www.matey-matey.com/g60-guide.shtml. point to note about this guide,it says first time you turn igintion on you dont have to start the car only second time -
Theres two types of readings for MFA boost check!
dannyboy replied to dannyboy's topic in Engine Bay
heres tables,might be helpful -
ill put my money on the ecu hose or a problem with ecu. my hose acciendently came off once(knocked it off) and it ran excatly like james1400 car.especially on the overun when downshifting,sounded like a rally car
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Is it farting and poping....pardon the expression? or just big cloud of black smoke?
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9a 16v new fuel pump etc started but now wont start???
dannyboy replied to bobbymkII's topic in Engine Bay
Hall sender died because car has been laid up?very unusual. id say it was more because one of the pintle needles have stuck if youve left it stood for a while due to moisture. Did you purge the old fuel out of the tank before putting fresh fuel in?or did you just throw fresh stuff in the tank with the old? -
9a 16v new fuel pump etc started but now wont start???
dannyboy replied to bobbymkII's topic in Engine Bay
its best way to get air out of mechanical injectors as the air compresses inside them so they dont open properly.also less strain on the starter motor as you turn it over less. Just grab two spanners one to hold,one to undo nut,crack back of injectors off(dont undo the nut,just a bit so fuel starts to leak) then grab a rag(fuel leakage,you dont want a fire) Get buddy to turn over engine and when fuel starts to come out constant tigthen them up one by one. be careful fuel is at high pressure and you dont want fuel gettn injected under your skin. had a guy on injector course before i did mine loose a finger because it went under his skin,to save his life