dannyboy

one thing to check is the vibration damper locking bolt.old ones have tendence to work loose and snap.its stretch bolt so you only use it once. just take coolant pump/power steering belt off and grab the damper+ try rock it about.will give you a clue if somethings not right

proper way is to take sump off and feel how much play you have in the rod ends and crank ends.only time i have heard something like that was when one of the guys engines lost a thrust washer causing vibration(and clutch burnt out)

never had a prob with standard bearings on a 250k PG motor,a little loose but what do you expect for 250k.and been giving abuse now and again the vibration damper is doing some serious overtime though from that video.never seen the vibration damper move that much. dont think thats very common at all with a engine,let alone with a PG.stick a screw driver in the flywheel inspection hole and try move the flywheel if has free-play as you try to move it horiziontal the bearings will need replacement.

:lol:

The ecu MAP sensor is calibrated to the manifold by using basic physics.pressure(vacuum or boost) acting in a cylinder(vacuum hose) on an area(MAP sensor diaphram) This acting on the diaphram inside the map sensor which has a carefully measured surface area which moves to vary the voltage that the ECU recieves.this voltage adjusts the fuel accordingly From memory i believe 5v reference voltage,ground and signal The signal voltage varies as the diaphrams moves, 1v on idle to 5v on boost,to put it simply- a variable resistor different size hose diameter or length will change the force acting on the diaphram giving a inaccarate reading resulting in overfuelling or underfuelling its what i can remember at the moment,there is a formula to calculate it but its friday and the pub is calling :clap: yandards is correct with the pulses(thought the digifant had a analog map sensor though?could be wrong :notworthy: )

think theres one in a Seat too.

externally cant remember off the top of my head,theres very little difference i think.no difference in height,bore is bigger and different crank get a ABF block and fit a girddle to the bottom to reinforce the block.that should take quite a bit of punishment.

bores and cams and ports in a nutshell.9a and kr are different blocks.the proper way is to use pistons with compression reduction pockets,reduction plates are a cheap way but not good way of getting combustion efficenty. both cams are not good for 16v g60,you need custom jobs.excess overlap will allow charged gas to exit the combustion chamber before it is properly used. thought the best was abf and KR head with 9a cams. ABF blocks over here in germany are really expensive cause everyone wants one for 16vg60.just a mk3 gti block. there is Seat block which is the same.

yeah i did think that and idle was bit bouncey Wheres DG yans? bit of a trek for me but for a decent map sounds interesting

dont take this test as gospel,a proper mechanical boost guage will give you a true reading.cheap and more accurate reading on a completely stock g60(standard chip,standard pulley,nothing modded) i was getting 130 max on the display saying i was running in vacuum at the redline on my 70mm pulley at the moment im still getting only about 160.

yans,does the ISV have a mechanical boost limiter(boost overcoming the plunger) as well as beening actuated by the ecu? I had a spare ISV and had a play with the adjusting screw while ago and dropoff in power came at 6100 instead of usual 5300-5800 or have i just played around with the idle return tension?

you must have got the 90mm drive shafts,sorry dude they wont work as theyre longer too!

your supposed to wait 30 minutes before starting engine up on new hydraulic tappets Perfectly honest itll take 30 minutes to get the cover on and all the pipes back so you could start it up straight away pretty much. soak hydraulic tappets overnight is an old practice,some vehicles you do have to do it but not VW

to adjust the cable(what i do anyway) get someone in the car to push the accelarator down full,then on the throttle body pull the clip off the external cable cover. then move the outer cover in til its tight and the throttle is wide open.replace the clip in the recess on the outer cover and test. unitfight-Running smaller pulley on standard chip isnt great as the maps will be all wrong and fuelling will not be right.i did it for a while and it was very flat on the 3500-6200 range.new chip sorted it out(well the 3500 to 5800 range anyway,still get massive dropoff in power after)

sounds more like the fuel map on the chip isnt well suited to your engine.sounds like either dumping too much fuel in or timing on the dizzy is out. mine was the same and different chip+adjusting dizzy timing made it run better.i still get that little delay of two seconds in the map and then you get that extra little pull as the mapping kicks in bit like turbo lag. Co pot doesnt really effect anything other than control fueling slighty on idle. CO pot should be around 500 ohms but every engine slighty runs different. One big thing to check is the vacumn hose to the ecu,wont run properly if its old or wrong length.this is the biggest controller of fuel for the engine. On WOT the lamba sensor and CO pot are not used so its not really down to them to test the WOT switch,push it in while engine is running,the engine tone will change and will hunt.

i use engine oil test set,theyre brillant.gives you a good idea the state of your oil and if its starting to break down. or do a visual,rub and sniff test. visual-does it look black and flow like treacle?-change time rub-put a drop between your fingers,does it feel like soap or like a paste?(if like paste,change) sniff-does it smell like burnt dog turd or petrol?-change (and tell the dog to stop sh!ttn in the engine :grin: )

exact same as the 16v/g60 model short shaft-432mm long shaft-666mm some reason i thought you had VR which are different lengths and didnt realise you had gti golf shafts sorry for the heart-attack :lol:

well you can smile now

what are the driveshafts from? is it a gti model?

sorry got full details- NON GTI(golf) models:- 90mm output flange GTI model:- 100mm output flange(same as 02a) length of shafts are different too,what raddo do you drive?

bummer,thought it was the outer splines of the cv joint,then i would have said get a file on it! just remebered,golf mk2 uses a 020 box and raddo uses 02a.output flanges are different sizes

did you try forcing them in and flaten the splines?

done my gearbox month and half ago-from what i remember it didnt use a normal allen key bolts.they are simaliar to torx bolts but with more splines. is it the shaft or the joint thats goosed?

pretty sure they will,think the only difference is shafts are longer.someone will prob correct me and tell me to stop talk sh!t :lol: mine are knocking on full lock in reverse now :( but drives ok.maybe this weekend ill need to have a look

Kr engines are nails,rare they blow unless theyre not looked after or timing belt isnt changed def dosent sound like its your bottom end,it would be like that across entire rev range,not just 4k these cars do make funny noises now and again. mine makes a clunk when i start to move in reverse,just one clunk and cant find any probs with mine