dannyboy

Non aircon models had 65 amp original,aircon came with 90 amp one.most people just fit a 90 amp one now as its harder to find 65 amp ones.don't think there's any size difference

Good lad bryan,good to see your motor now ready for the road.Ive still got two months before i get back to germany to drive mine!

As said above,check the idle screw. The ISV should buzz before starting the engine to check its working and give it a clean if its gunked up.g60s won't idle if the isv is unplugged or not working so I'd check that first before touching the idle screw.also check the small hose that goes from the manifold to the isv.they fall apart and all 3 g60s I've have had tears on the underside of the hose.easiest to check first. But never unplug the isv while the ecu is powered,it burns the is drivers out and the car will never idle properly again

Sounds like a blocked fuel filter or pump not cutting the musturd but as said above check timing first.I've only ever known g60s to run rich even when not running right,so running lean means fuel system is not keeping up with demand. Never heard anyone getting 0% on emissions before unless you haven't got ur exhaust connected! Was that CO reading? check the PPM part will give u a good indication how lean its running.anything under about 200 is a bit lean,anything over 900 is bit rich

I agree with fishwick,Dan and maverick on this one. The auq engine is the 180 from the seat leon which did come with the k03s Turbo on it.if you have a k04 on it and running high psi on it,the 9.3 CR is too high for that kind of boost even with a massive intercooler on the pressure in the cylinder may be too great for the cast components to handle. The AGU engine was looked for because it had bigger inlet canals and valves.but as fishwick said this was only any use when using bigger turbos so unless your putting over 320+ PS on the engine its not worth it. I had to wait two years before I found a 225 engine at a decent price with low mileage before I could start my project.if u want high power go for the higher PS engines otherwise stay within limits of the lower powered engine.350 NM is quite high for that engine,mines about 390 nm which is considered close to the Max 'safe' limit

I'm running quite high boost at the moment, 29 psi peak dropping to 21 psi on my APX engine which is the same as BAM without the vvt and wideband.I've had no problems but I'm turning mine down now only to help with drivablity issues and the sanity of my tyres. I made sure my engine was in good health before I even thought about re-mapping. Sorry to hear that two engines went,very unusual if you have a higher bhp engine as they have a lower CR to deal with higher boost.only running a 20 vt on 95 octane with anything higher than 15 PS I and small intercooler will cause problems long term.Its the high torque that destroys these engines and rods are the weakest part even on the higher bhp engines.I'm running 102 octance constantly with a large golf g60 intercooler so I can use the boost without any problems,well at least that's what vagcom is telling me.I've just bought a revo SPS to control the timing and boost at the turn of a switch.

As said above,get a small piece of wire and touch the terminal where the spade connecter goes to the large connected pos beside it.this will be doing exactly what cranking on the key would do. If that doesn't work,you have a sticky armature/shaft on the solenoid as FLA said or your battery is fubared

Use a VR6 one,but if your going to up the power of your 1.8t I'd go with an organic one. I've one fitted as mine is putting out over 360 NM of torque so it will last longer.don't think there is much difference between g60 one and vr one anyway.you've a k03 so standard vr one will be fine but if you have a k04 you'll be nearing the limit of the clutch when driving hard especially if its been re-mapped

I might buy that off you Bryan,I'll send you a pm

As Owen said that's fine,just keep an eye on it. All you are doing is testing to see if its the timing out or something else.doubt it would be a bent valve if compression test were the same.

Bryan sorry to be nosey but how much did the rear sway bar cost?

Yes the pipe from the intercooler to the TB. Just take it off at the TB to hear if its popping in the inlet.it won't do any harm at all,so long as you don't let anything get in.all your doing is undoing the pipe at the TB and snap open the throttle using the tb. If you get a loud bang,your timing is off but if repeated timing change doesn't fix the popping,you have bent valve.thats worst case senerio though.

My advice is get one that already has it.it is a long job changing all the parts and that's if you can source parts as parts are getting difficult to get hold off.there is auto corrados out there,nobody really liked them as the gearbox was basic and sluggish and not econamical at all. But that's a good thing as you should be able to find one but you need to loo

Nah the oil in the bottom of the recirc pipe is normal near the TB,I won't worry too much if level hasn't dropped.the charge pipe near the TB is the one you can take off to give a quick check.snap the throttle quickly,if it pop-bangs your timing is still off. Leave your ecu hose on but make sure you've put it on the correct nipple on the TB.I can't remember which one goes on where but it does make a difference

Pressing the WOT switch in on idle should make the engine hunt not idle smoother,so it may very well be your O2 sensor in not brilliant. But that wouldnt account for the misfire. It sounds like the timing is still out,take the hose of the TB and snap the throttle open.If it gives a loud pop-bang,this means your timing is out

thats quite hot for a KR engine,especially this time of year. A rad may look fine on the outside but the inside tubes could be full of hard water deposits or covered in oil reducing its heat exchanging ability. the fan switch only turns on the fan,nothing else.if your cruising on the motorway the temps should drop as the fan isnt used unless its red hot outside,so it does sound very much like your rad has seen alot better days.Either that or you have a vapour lock in the rad,in that case try bleed the rad through the top rad hose.

Shes starting to take shape bryan,Im glad you got the patience,lesser man would have given up. How is the weather in UK?Its -23 degrees over here,VERY COLD!!!! and due to get colder later in the month

Your insurance premium went up? thats illegal and you could of taken the insurance company to court over that. Unless you still got a portion of the blame even when you havent done anything wrong yourself.It pays to have legal cover with insurance.They'll fight on your behalf to stop stuff like that happening. My insurance didnt change after the incident down the nurburgring because i had legl cover and no-claims protected.Then again insurance does work a little different over here

Ill be on the forum bryan,just wont have the car. all the stuff i have ordered will be at home when i get back so ill be busy.Trying at the moment to find out if the APX engine has cruise control as my harness doesnt have the pinout on the ECU to use the cruise control.But it would be nice to have on my one. Might swing by you later april/may time byran,hopefully your beast will be finished by then! Oh also solved the big mystery of the diference between ECU,engine harness and the engine itself. The engine is a early NON-ESP engine (tts that got recalled and had rear spoiler added+ESP) The harness is still unknown,but is from a earlier 1.8t engine with the hitachi coils like mine has.But doesnt have pinouts on harness for CC so its not tt quattro(maybe FWD version like Cupra R) The ECU is an APX with ESP model one. So as you can see some of the problems i had were down to miss-match of these. oh the joys :lol:

off to Canada for 4 months tomorrow so it'll be a while before i can play with my car again :(

i think lots of people are in agreement here that people drive way too close behind to give time to react.If i was in rubbish car i wouldnt care about it getting wrote-off, their insurance will be paying but i try and avoid it if possible.If the corrado gets written-off by someone driving too close ill get out of the car and deck the driver of the other car straight off!! What do people achieve driving on other peoples bumpers?there is 100% no point and idiots need to realise this.

your trying to use a virtual usb drivers one which is more of a pain than a direct drivers.Im running windows 7 so its a little easier but it shouldnt really matter The link should work,i dont have any problems opening it,it should have a promot to open or save a file.So check your download bar is appearring on top of the webpage (windows xp) or check your security settings plug cable into computer,go to control panel>device manager. when you look down the list you should see 'PORTS'.click on it and drop-down u should have 'USB serial port (COM1 or simialir).double click to view the properties and look under driver tab.The provider should be 'FTDI',the driver date 18/03/2011, and the version should be 2.8.14.0 If it is thats a good start,if not you need to use the direct drivers on the D2XX page,down the page under windows the 2.8.14,click on the 2.8.14(not the beta version) and you can download the drivers Report back when you complete this

byran,what size are them discs and calipers? how much did they set you back? cheers bryan

i can help you on this one,i had pretty much same problem as you. Plug the vagcom cable in.Does windows make three short bleeps as opposed to one longer bleep(as when you plug in a usb device)? you need to install the drivers for the cable correctly first.this link will install them http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/CDM/CDM20814_WHQL_Certified Make sure the cable is unplugged first.install the drivers. report back when you got this done and ill help you along the way

Good luck man! Dynos are scarey things as i was afraid that the engine was going to go pop listening to my engine getting nailed when i had my remap done!