easypops

It is the messiest stuff ever plus it goes off really quick. I use wooden ice lolly sticks as wee spatulas and dispose regularly, they just get too messy. Just spread a thin layer on both sides, wait 5 mins and put together. I used spray adhesive on my headlining and it also did a great job so I’m sure you’ll be fine with that 👍

I’ve also been doing the re glueing of the leather onto the door cards. I find this glue does a great job

Excuse the messy door 🥴

Hello mate, Thank you for that, great help. I got those files but I’ll need to look again at them as I’ve always found these things a bit if a brain melter 🤣 I know exactly what you mean now for the vss block 👍 I’ve got the golf servo, which will need that questionable modification. Any chance you have a link to the one you bought? I’m also going OBD2 with a Schrick but as nothing is in yet I’ve no idea how it’ll sit. I do have one if the early rubber tb pipe so fingers crossed. I’ll order up one of those switches then. I have the golf one which has almost the identical diagram on the reverse but that would involve some serious butchery I fear, no point when I can get a better option. Thank you for the pipe work document, that’ll help for sure. Any chance you might have a picture of how you ran the pipes at the rear beam? The bit where the rear bias valve was. I’m in zero rush for that bit though as I’m only interested in getting the front section done just now. But if this lockdown continues I might get further along than I first thought 👍😁

Hello mate, Any chance I can pick your brain for a couple of questions ?😁 1. what did you do with your mounting bracket? I’m thinking cut the back off the corrado one and weld it onto the new one? Keeps the original holes/bolts easy enough? Or drill 3 holes in the new one? Then trim the sides off? 2. What switch did you use? I’ve got a variety here but not the correct Passat one. The mk3 golf one would be correct but the pin arrangement is different than what I have. I only have the existing wiring for the switch, somehow don’t have that bit from the donor 3. Wiring. I sort of understand but might be getting it wrong. I’ve screenshot what I’ve been looking at but I’m unsure what the vss block is? v speed signal? thanks in advance 😁

Once I got started I’d say a couple of hours max, although I did do the cobra immobiliser first as it was definitely the more awkward due to them having cut the wires. The hardest part(in hindsight) was the cramped conditions. Once I’d sussed out how they had actually tied in it was fairly simple, access was difficult over at the door wiring but yes, I was over the moon once it was off 😁🤘😎

Factory alarm and immobiliser removed. Cobra immobiliser also removed, that’s a lot of wiring out the way 😁

Well, it’s off. Not too hard once you commit to it, you were correct Shaun, I just chased a wire at a time and to be honest it was actually quite easy. Very few wires were cut, they had mainly just been exposed and another soldered on. I also removed a Cobra immobiliser at the same time, now that did have cut wires but all rejoined now 😁

I’m absolutely lost with it if I’m honest. Although it’s vag, so must be original, I can’t see how it’s been working. There is a thin blue wire lying cut in the engine bay, which must’ve been for the bonnet open sensor(which isn’t there either). Other wires are cut close to the fuse box but with no visible other ends? It might be that’s just the way it’s meant to be? The Cobra thing I found is very simple, but is totally separate from the standard one. I’ll remove that first(once the colour coded heat shrink arrives tomorrow). I’ll then have another look to see what’s next. I do have a parts car Shaun so yes, getting spare colour coded wires will be easy. Id happily pay someone to come and do it for me and fit a new alarm but I know it’s very unlikely in the current climate plus if they see it as it is they’ll run a mile 🤣

Blimey, can of worms indeed. I’ll be changing this ecu for the OBD2 one but I don’t think that will solve my problems. In theory I don’t actually have to remove it but as it’s not working (as far as I’m aware) except it definitely had central locking from the fob, which is the original one . I might just remove the Cobra at this point and stop , wait until this isolation situation eases and get a mobile alarm guy in and let it be his headache

As the title says, I’m looking for advice on how exactly do I go about this. There are 2 black boxes and the siren along with a load of wires. Is it actually possible to remove it without completely killing the electrics? There just seems so many wires? I am also removing a Cobra immobiliser I’ve found but that is easy compared to the standard stuff

Ok, so I got the heater box out with only a bit of hassle. Then I managed to remove all the abs wiring, except the fuse box ones as I’ve left them in for reference just now. While I’m in here I’m gonna remove the factory and the aftermarket alarm as none were working properly, but my god the mess of wires is making me worry 🤪

Take the front seats out mate, you’ll need the room I’d think. Take your time with everything, especially the centre console, mine literally fell apart just showing it the screwdriver 🤣 5 bolts, one on each far side, 2 under the scuttle and one bottom middle. Lots of wiring to unclip along the top underside. There is a screw in behind where the clocks go holding that area of the dash to the central structure. There may be more screws but I already had both sides under trays already out. I removed the Glovebox as well as it was going too easy 🤣, although I think it could possibly stay in. If so remember the light.

The lower chain guide has 2 metal ring inserts the allow it so seat on the guides, my best guess would be it’s one of these

Well, I’d love to say that was fun, but it wasn’t, getting too old/rigid to be creeping about on my knees 🤣

No, normal thread, just unbelievably tight. I’ll need a new one I guess 😁

I had real trouble with the crank pulley as well, in the end it took 2 of us, breaker bar with 7ft pipe extension, crank jammed up with a few bits of strategically placed wood, when it cracked it was like a gunshot, wouldn’t have surprised me if the bar had snapped or indeed the bolt but thankfully not

Carpet out. Various jobs to do in here. Add soundproofing Run speaker wires to the rear Fit heated seat loom Fit Recaro loom Then the fun starts 🤣 Remove the Dashboard, remove the heater box/matrix, remove the ABS and associated wiring, remove the old alarm(‘s) Fit refurbished heater box, new matrix, new speakers,Run the OBD2 wiring to the fuse box, Fit Teves20 (I’m optimistic 🤣)

Not sure if it’s just me but I can’t see your photos mate?

Fantastic mate, many thanks. PM on the way 😎

I have put a different plug on the both seat connections as they have matching female plugs, so if I don’t find the ones I need I’ll just change the plug on the seat base

Both wrapped

Wrapped the original loom and laid the copy beside it

Thanks mate, fingers crossed. My bet is they are used in a few places, I’ve just to find them 👍😁

Thanks mate, I’ll definitely keep that in mind, you must never be done finding stuff 😁