alex303

Hi, Does the 4Motion sump have the sensor level hole in it ?

Rams i've used the Silkolene / Fuchs Pro-S 10w 50 for quite a few years now and i think its the best out there for our 12v VR lumps, the engine seems to love the stuff (runs more smoothly & quieter and handles high temps very well)...i've used the 5w 40 in the 24v 4Motion and thats equally good too. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1145-silkolene-pro-s-10w-50-ester-synthetic-oil-for-high-performance-engines.aspx Opie oils usually have a deal on it every couple of months

Rams, i still have my old Intake Pipework setup that G-Werks fabricated for me years ago (there's a pic in that link i posted earlier in your thread), if you get stuck you're welcome to borrow it until yours arrives from CCR, ditto i also have a full (sealed) bottle of Rotrex traction fluid as i always keep one full spare in case of emergencies. Try these guys for a 90mm Rotrex Pulley http://www.tts-performance.co.uk/ HTH Alex

Rams, sounds like you've been busy! All very positive though... Vince is giving you very sound advice there not to fit the Green tops yet as will just over-fuel like crazy without a new Map, also think you've made a good choice going for his Mocal Kit as it is comprehensive! Not sure what size Fuel Reg you will need, personally i would ask Vince what he has done on other cars he's mapped before with similar specs and running similar levels of boost. That boost gauge looks great but the only thing you have to consider is how easy it will be to read when you've got your foot down and your trying to get a quick glance at it, agree that the pillar mounted ones don't look great though. If you have new components (valves etc) in the head then i'd have thought some running-in would be needed, but not if your just keeping to stock head / block & just fitting up-rated fasteners. re: the Rotrex traction yes i'd think you'd probably want a bit more than 3/4 to fully prime the system (the resovoir holds about 1/3 - 1/2 a bottle alone), sorry but i don't know if it has a shelf life. HTH Alex

Great bit of kit this, highly recomended...i've been using one on my Rotrex'd 4Motion for nearly 2 years now and have been very happy with it! GLWS

No probs Rams Ok i've dug out my old invoice for the Spark Plugs that i was recomended to use:- Denso Platinum - Q24PR-ZU £42.89 for 6No. from http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk (back in 2007) from memory they were a special though and had to be ordered in, tbh i would ask Bobby what he was using and perhaps drop Christian a line Basically you just want a decent plug than runs a grade or 2 cooler than stock to cope with the extra punishment, the Denso's were good & tbh i'm still running them now on a N/A setup

Rams, no probs your welcome Yes i would opt for the 9.1 kit (1 point drop) this will be fine for say 10 / 12 psi...if you drop it more than this running at that level of boost i think you'll find it annoying (blunts the acceleration at low revs) until it comes on boost. If you're eventually building up a forged engine to swap over in the future i would personally get everything up & running at this level of boost then increase the boost once your forged engine is in. No you definitely don't need to buy a stock head gasket as the SPTurbo kits come with everything your installer will need. I can't honestly say about the SP263 cams as i've only used Schrick 268's, however i'm sure Shaun (who had the VR-T on here years ago) ran aftermarket cams with his earlier VF Supercharger. As i understand it the biggest issue is trying to map a Supercharged car running 'Wilder' cams, i think a lot of this comes down to the skill of the guy who's mapping your car as if you browse thru some of the threads on VW-Vortex there's plenty of guys on there running all manner of after market cams on Charged cars. I cannot see why fitting a spacer would affect your cams though or vice versa. Christian @ CCR is definitely one of the good guys so hopefully your pipework is in transit, perhaps he can provide a tracking number to give you some help? I've had a look at that pic your posted of the Coolingmist kit and tbh i think you would be better off with this one... http://www.coolingmist.com/pagedisplay.aspx?pid=Vc2stage2 That Stage 1 kit is ok, uses good components still but probably the biggest difference is its just activated by a fairly basic boost switch, i.e. your car will hit a certain level of boost and the kit will start injecting at 100% of the injectors flow rate. A bit like turning on a water tap at full pelt if you like. The Stage 2 kit i've linked about uses a 'Progessive controller' so basically you can set and VARY the pararmeters of:- a) what level of boost it cuts in at (say for exampl 6psi) b) what level of boost it shuts off c) the controller will then progressively inject the amount H20/Meth between these 2 points and you can create a 'Curve' between these 2 points of how agressively you want it to do this So more like turning on your water tap gently and gradually increasing it in line with the level of boost, this is important because you don't want to 'flood' the boost too soon with Water/Meth otherwise the car will feel as though it does'nt want to accelerate smoothly. Apprecaite its more money but if you make the right choice now you can use the kit on your current setup and then later with your forged engine (gives you more options & flexibility). The Stage 2 kit is basically the same one that myself and a couple of mates are using, remember you also get a separate H20/Meth tank with this which you can tuck in the boot somewhere then run the plumbing up to the engine bay. I'd guess that 80mm pulley is either 14 or 17psi of boost (sure Bobby could tell you), my old C30-94 it had an 90mm pulley which was good for 10psi. If it was me i'd remove the 80mm pulley and save it for when you fit the fully forged engine and buy another 90mm pulley for now (pretty sure you can buy these in the UK). If your planning on getting Vince to Map your car eventually i'd speak to him about the 4" MAF, but tbh i don't see why it can't be used now as i understand it your just slowing down the amount of air that the MAF sees with the greater diameter which should make it easier for him to Map the car for you. Even if you don't use it now you certainly use it later so it definitely won't be wasted. Re the Mocal yes i used & still use the Thermostatic Sandwich plate with my setup. Basically it allows the oil to reach a certain temp before it open the flow to the Mocal which in cold weather is important as your car can take ages to heat up properly otherwise. I have the Stealth kit which also keeps the stock oil cooler...the Sandwich plate then sits between this and the block, it came with a longer central feed pipe that is long enough to go through both the Sandwich plate and connect to the Stock cooler if that makes sense...hard to explain without pics. I bought mine 2nd hand (but brand new) on here so i'm sorry but i've not got any links but i dare say Vince probably still sells them, they're not the cheapest kits but very comprehensive with plenty of hose & good quality fixings etc. I have seen other kits for sale on the web, but just check:- a) It comes complete with a Thermostatic Sandwich plate b) Longer central bolt if you want to retain the OEM cooler also b) Plenty of hose & good fixings (don't be seduced by those short shiny braided hoses as can be a right bugger if the hoses are too short) * * Stealth include a **** load of good quality Aeroquip hose and then you can make them up to your desired length. If you're planning on ordering the ARP head-studs & Spacer kit from SPTurbo you could ask them about the Coolingmist kits also as they sell exactly the same kits too (thats who i bought mine thru originally), that way you consolidate all your deliveries from the US down into one large order and hopefully save on carriage. If you drop me a pm i have some email address's that may help you. For what its worth i think your doing it the right way, run everything in at a certain level of boost...run it and enjoy it for a year or so, then when your happy with everything dial it up some more with the new engine. I've not really got a build thread on here (been meaning to do one for years), but there are some pics of my old Pearl Green VR with the Rotrex C30-94 plumbed in in the FI VR6 thread somewhere. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?17287-The-Forced-Induction-VR6-thread&p=491427#post491427 The 400bhp 'devil child' (running a C38-71) is on R32OC http://www.r32oc.com/topic/26649-alexs-rotrex-c38-supercharged-r28-updated/page__hl__alex303 HTH regards Alex

Rams, comments as follows:- 1/ Yes ideally you need the ARP Head stud kit as well as the Rod bolt kit you have already, i do not believe you need the Main stud kit http://www.spturbo.com/onlinestore/index.php/volkswagen/vw-engine/vr6/12-valve/engine-fatseners/arp-vr6-12v-headstuds.html 2/ Yes most definitely to some form of progressive injection Water / Meth kit as i previously advised Craig there are plenty of options out there, i'm running the Coolingmist setup that SPTurbo sell and its also very very good, have been using it consistently for over 2 years now on my Rotrex'd 4Motion which is pushing 400bhp (no issues / no dramas)...whatever pump you buy though please make sure it can handle Meth as well as H20...not all of them can! http://www.coolingmist.com/ 3/ Regarding the Intake pipe-work tbh i would say Metal is better than silicone, simply because Silicone will expand slightly under boost so you're wasting boost pressure, you will need to use some silicone couplers and possible a bend to couple onto the TB but less Silicone & more Metal is better. CCR are not the quickest but they are good & know they're stuff, Christian is a very sound guy & keeps his word. 4/ You will need a Spacer gasket if you're planning on running more than say 8 / 10 psi of boost, IF you buy a good quality kit from say SPTurbo this will come with two stock copper crush (sealing) gaskets, you sandwich these either side of the Stainless steel Spacer and fit. http://www.spturbo.com/onlinestore/index.php/volkswagen/vw-engine/vr6/12-valve/cly-head-spacers/12v-vr6-steel-gasket-spacer.html If you are only planning on running Water/Meth as cooling initially personally i would'nt go much past 10 or 12 psi of boost, at this level you only need a 1 Point drop in compression with a Supercharger. Remember if you drop the compression by too much you will blunt the cars acceleration until it comes on boost. Bear in mind Bobby was running a fully forged engine and more boost so i'd guess the pulley you bought with kit may be too small (i.e. too much boost if say 17psi), you will need to get a larger pulley from CCR to drop it down to more moderate levels. 5/ Mocal Oil Cooler c/w thermostatic sandwich plate i believe mine is a 13 row (Stealth used to sell a nice kit), if you're planning on doing a LOT of track days then perhaps a larger core than this might be needed but if the rest of your cooling system is in decent shape this will be enough. 6/ Yes you do need to shave the head in one corner mine was the same when i had it fitted on the Rado...thats just how the bracket fits (every install has compromises), i'll see if i can take a pic for you when i get time...but its not that big a deal tbh. 7/ re: Spark Plugs i would ask CCR what they recomend, i'll see if i can dig out the part number of the ones i used. HTH regards Alex

Strange that the seller does'nt know exactly which variant C30-?? it is (i.e. 64, 74, 84 or 94) Just need to measure the Inlet diameters (both internal & external) & check them against the Rotrex website...simple enough!

What width are the BBS's & what sizes are the tyres ? Bit more detail might help your sale

Yes to me it felt like being in your favourite leather armchair with a load of toys & gadgets and in the case of the TDI Sport a couple of nice Turbo's to boot, but definitely not a 'drivers' car IMHO!

They're a very nice car...i've driven both the RS5 and used an 3.0TDI Quattro A5 a few times at work (awesome torque & delivery), but not the most 'involving' cars to drive i thought tbh!

SOLD to MarkFoster thanks everyone for looking

MarkFoster has 1st Dibs Wapadrand has 2nd Dibs Riley...i'm sorry mate but they would be a total a**e to pack & tbh i'd be concerned about the door skins getting damaged in transit, the frames are very strong (as we all know), but the skins don't really take much to damage them...sorry mate collection only ---------- Post added at 7:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:00 PM ---------- Yes thats fine Mark, will send you a PM shortly

Mark if you can collect before the 03/01/13 ? when i go back to work (that gives you a week) then as far as i'm concerned they are yours. I have gone back an re-read 'Wapadrand's post and expressing an interest is not the same as 'i'll take it'....If a Mod wishes to correct me? i'll listen....but thats my take on it! Alex. ---------- Post added at 6:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 6:09 PM ---------- thanks for the info bud

Hmmm not 100% true mate as my very first Pearl Green 92 VR did have side impact bars but also had the early style door cards (switches on the cards not the handles) It was an early Press Car VR though & back when G-werks used to look after it they commented that it had a mix of late G60 & early VR interior parts (thats was un-modded)

Thank you for the info

Neil, i've had a look once & can't see any part numbers on them but when the weather dries up i'll have another poke around. Hav'nt got a clue whether they're VAG or Pattern....you could ask Bobby if he remembers (i never bothered asking when i bought them) ? But tbh who makes new Rado doors these days anyway, from VW Classic i'd suspect you'd need a 2nd mortgage (around £600 the set i'd hazard a guess).

NOW SOLD - PLEASE LOCK ! Here we have a set of Corrado doors, the unusual thing is they are NEW Un-Used, so ideal if you have a rotten door or two that you want to replace. I bought these sometime ago from B5VWC (Bobby) on here & they've been dry stored in my Garage for a few years, my current Rado is pretty tidy & lives in the garage so can't see myself needing / using these in the near future. Please note all you're buying is what you see in the pics i.e. just a pair of Bare doors No handles, seals, rubbers, regulators, Electrics, Cards etc included! Also the Drivers side door has a very slight dink in it from transportation / storage i.e. if you look just below & in front of where the door handle would be you can see this, easy enough to be dealt with though. I'm not sure whether these are meant for an early or later Rado (perhaps someone can study the inner frames & comment??)...but looks to me like there's a recess for the early style / position electric window switches mounted on the door cards, instead of the later style door grab handles. Please don't compare these to the scabby offerings you find lurking in breakers yards as they're NEW and not rotten at the bottom like most of the ones in breakers that get left just sitting on the ground outside. £100 the Pair - Don't want to split them just want to reclaim garage space COLLECTION ONLY FROM DA12 KENT - Cash on Collection....Sending by Courier is NOT possible or practical so please don't ask NO OFFERS - thank you cheers

Stick with OEM mate...my current VR had a full Reiger kit on when i first bought it (same skirts as in that Silver one above) and i had the whole lot stripped off (thought it looked awfull & spoilt a clean car)...please remember the skirts will act like a trap for dirt & road salt etc and increase your chances of getting rot over time. On one side of mine at the bottom edge of the front wing it has some rot that i'm getting delt with in the new year and i'm sure its the damn skirts that caused this. HTH Alex

bump for some very nice wheels!

Bailey DV now SOLD elsewhere!

Thats spot on mate! Very nice indeed!! glad your pleased with the Milltek...that one was seriously low miles, the stock 'suitcase' silencer seems mad in comparison does'nt it...bit less weight to lug around also

2nd dibs please if 'RadoVirgin' declines asking price is fine & i'd sort my own courier to collect

No probs mate and yes i thought their pricing was fair also...nicely engineered parts for the money, just looked back through my emails and pretty sure it was a guy called 'Dave' i was talking to there, he was very helpfull (good service).