yeti

Not the C but my b5 passat tdi I was driving home tonight and heard a strange noise as i pulled away froma set of traffic lights, 2 roundabouts on and it was making strange 'wizzy' noisey as i turned left and right and didnt feel as smooth when turned. I stopped to find alot of powersteering fluid all over my nearside wheel, in the wheel arch, on the rear wheel and down the side of the car from where the fluids been flung out and the air's pushed it down the side. hmm well the RAC man has just come out and was almost as confused as i was as i checked all i could really see but he has managed after quite a while poking around to diagnose the problem as a knackered seal at the ns end of the steering rack and now a knackered pump as well... anyone know how easy they are to change as it seems to be a struggle seeing the bloody thing! - also how much wallet damage i'm looking at (just fitted a new alternator, drive belt, tensioner, waterpump etc and 3-4 weeks before 2 lower suspension arms... not cheap motoring! ) also anyone know if it'll be dangerous to drive like this? - if the pump and rack are knackered all ready, in theory the power steering may stop and it become heavy but surely i'll still be able to turn it till saturday?

the front and rear subframes, engine, suspension etc about 95% the same so underbody stuff will be covered in the haynes, certainly wishbones and suspension bits and bobs

o and forgot to mention - worth buying a mk3 golf haynes manual that covers the vr6 (think there is one) as its cheap and with the price of the dollar atm the american bentley publishing manual is about 10 times the price!

it really shouldnt be too bad, you will need the ball joint splitter if the wishbone ball joint has gone, if you want to keep this and just change the wishbone then its just nuts and bolts (and if i remember right the vr6 needs to be lifted slightly as it stops one of the botls coming out it might be a good idea to check out nomads mate, we're a friendly bunch of vw nuts and most people live in/around hertford/hemel, if you check out http://www.nomadsvw.co.uk there will probably be someone on there round the corner who might be able to have a look for you or come and lend you a hand - i would but i can this weekend! :camp: andy

the bot at the end is bolted to the lower part of the hub carrier and the wishbone and does come off and is easily replacable. use a see saw type ball joitn splitter (sorry dont know the proper name!) and it'll seperate off so you can slide it out - might need to relax the driveshaft though in order to pull it out from the wishbone! Tbh though when i've done this quite a few times in the past its a pita to get the ball joint out fron the bottom of the hub so what i've done in the past is taken the track rod off, driveshaft out and brakes off and pressed the connical shaft of the ball joint from the hub carrier

how come you've taken all the floors out? good work so far though mate - this is where i should be now! :camp:

well i'll probably be taking mine there to remap when done, every garage has their good and bad stories but they seem to be the no.1 vr6 experts around (so i keep hearing) and they do r32 conversions into corrados so why not!

Yeah Vince is Stealth, they charge in the region of £5.5k to provide a low mileage mk5 r32 and fit it and remap it. A mate got them to do this into his mk3 (hence i know the price), used his original gearbox, had/has loads and loads of problems with the conversion and they refitted his box even though it was gettign to the end of its life. So it seems with them, they are very good but you need to make sure you have taken care of every additional part before it goes to them, i.e. provide/ask them to supply a new box/clutch, the necessary bigger diameter exhaust system etc then they can accurately map it there and then so you dont have repeat trips back and forth when the cars 'finished'

la9v... if thats magic black (mine is so that rings a bell!) The dash is black as are the a/b/ c pillar upper/lower trims. The headlining is light grey, mine had black heated leather with black leather door cards black rear speaker trims/parcel self supports and a black rear parcel shelf

hmmm more wheels... i likes them :lol:

ha ha! cheers man, yeah its getting me excited now! - I spent last weekend on the rear floor but i am about as delicate as an oaf sometimes and after watching my mate surgically remove the left hand upper panel i then started removing the main panel and we decided it was best done by him! lol (Ed is a pro welder and fabricator and i'm very pleased to have him there to keep me sane and provide the expert advice and skills!) I am gonna be going up to blackpool to collect the floor and cross member + the syncro rear beam this friday from cubed on here - very nice fella! and once i have that cleaned up and ready to go in i'll be a v happy man :clap: o and these arrived today... DSC00951.JPG[/attachment:3nz3uqg1] :clap: :clap: :clap: so happy! minty minty condition as described and bar a wee bit of dirt, the paintwork on the arms is original and without rust and the rubber bushes are still v v good... low miles ftw!

more expensive as they are safer, far more structurally solid and yeah cos you can be sure you've fitted them right they're even safer :cheers:

isofix is not an integral opart of the structure but is usually secured into a cross member or specially reinforced panel within a vehicle. If you were to look at the design of the corrado there is very few places other than the buckle bolt points that would allow it but there is not 2 correctly spaced points There is no sure way of performing the necessary tests to decided whether or not its safe and how does a corrado shell perform in crash? i can only hazard a guess that the seat belt mounts will not move but i wouldnt want to be welding/and bolting mounts into a vehicle not specifically designed for it. I think thats what andy was saying - the structure of the car is designed to preserved these points in the event of a crash and without alot of clever thinking then maybe you could redesign it inh but why bother as if you were to ever crash and baby was injured or worse as a result of the work carried out failing then i'd imagine you'd want to sue someone.... I certainly wouldnt modify/fit anything and i dont think you'd find anyone to fit it due to the legal repercussions

got rsx's on my golf and from what i remember you use the supplied knob dealy to adjust the rebound at the top, normal c spanners for the height and a little twiddley knob on the bottom as the boost monkey said :D

yep v true mate :D i run my 17's on 205 40 17's as well - got to much scrubbage with 215 45 17's ... even ping'd that size on my new 8.5x17's last week and it works so the difference is negnigable!

v similar to what i'm looking to do v v soon but for some reason the people at performance trim (uk company - cant remember they're contact details) said that the simple/light carbon cards they produce for mk1/2/3's cant be done for c's as they're curved/bent - is this right?

welll done that man :D ... most of the info you need for now!

looks v nice! - lovely looking interior! silver looks v cool as well imo but... put some spacers on the rear (only 5mm per side needed) so you can run with centre caps on as when i put comps on my vr the dust cap pushes the rear casps off so you can either batter the hell out of the rear caps or spend a few quid on some spacers? up to you (i was a skint apprentice at the time so i battered the dust seals flat :lol: ) o and i'd change the hot tuning/vmaxx coils if i were you, my vr with proper coilovers, new bushes etc before i took her apart handled amazingly well and it'll be ok atm but can be alot better o and v jealous - i never could get over 30mpg.... the difference with low mile vr's!

does sound like the battery still - bump/jump starting willstart the engine but there sounds like theres a massive drain on the system so will be worth charging the battery. then thring to work out the drain. when it comes to electrical diagnostics you might as well be talking swedish to be sorry i know v little, i'd advise taking it to your local ice/alarm specailaist and asking them so try and sort it out if you can. That is what i did when my vr did this and also the alarm kept going off randomly on the drive all night (my neighbors loved me :D ) i had my vr towed to the local place and it was diagnosed as having 3 different bodged alarm systems on the loom that were confusing the life out of themselves and draining the battery. new alarm fitted and the battery would last at least a week (sorry but if you dont use the C everyday when fitted with an alarm then it seems to drain it v v quickly)

hope you havent bought the tires yet but when i was running 16x7's the original vw sized tire was a 215 40 16. (this was on a mk3 golf gti anniversary wheel - 16x7... but the stock golf vr and solitudes came with identical sized tires and offests to the 15" speedlines so guesing vw put alot of time/money/effort into deciding that tire size) I was running dunlop sp sport 9000's as i'd recently played with a 350z and thats the tires they use and i couldnt fault them - herisites has those wheels now but afaik they're still ok! 205 45's look too tall imo and you're getting a smaller contact patch!

so the engine works and starts but the central lockings stopped?

battery's dead mate - charge it seperate if pos, i had this loads with my alarm draining the battery quickly, my advice would be to change to a larger capacity diesel battery as you'll last a bit longer

well my main advice would be buy light! - split 16's or some 16's are heavier than many good quality 17's - my car handles soooo much better with light 17" rc's than the old 16" splits than i had before what style do you like? - euro/race/bling/oem etc?

sh!t karl! - sorry t hear its all gone titts up :( when you've got yours turbo's you'll have to have a go in mine to make yourself feel better as mine's gonna be nowhere near as quick! :camp:

if your looking into to r32 tuning, i.e. cams filters etc log on to r32oc.com (or .co.uk cant remember) what what i've read the performance cams seem to be double the cost of the 12v ones and that was before the credit crunch so the exchange rate with europe and the states is worse so everythings got more expensive :( Although speaking to someone recently whos mate had cams remap and alsorts of bits and pieces (spent many many thousands tuning the engine) he ended up with 310ish but it sounded like a proper mental race car 8)