mikkijayne

Yes thats right. Except you can collect from anywhere between Exeter and Leeds. Manchester I can also do, but I'm there less often. Tbh collection is preferable cos it saves me having to box 'em all up! Plus it saves you guys some money ;-) Payment for the part goes to James (Dogger) and payment for tax and UK shipping needs to come to me. It would have been easier to send it all to James, but then we'd fall foul of Paypal charges moving the money around everywhere.

Hi everyone! Apologies for being late to the party, but I haven't been receiving email notification since the forum software upgrade so I had no idea this thread was here! What happened to all the smileys? I'm located in Exeter, Devon, but regularly drive up to Leeds for work (M5, M42, M1), so anyone who can collect from either end or in between is welcome to, especially for the CF front spoiler as that one will be tricky to pack safely. I don't mind going off-route a little if you cover my petrol costs. Shipping everything in one go saves not only on shipping charges, but also on ParcelFarce's 'handling fee', vat, and import duty. We're looking at three boxes to contain 20-odd items, so obviously I have to re-pack everything afterwards to ship in the UK. The onward shipping cost reflects that, but I'll be sending by courier so it should be quite quick. Taxes to get them in to the UK are as follows: 70mm front spoiler: £16 90mm CF front spoiler: £29 Rear wing: £25 Now these numbers are 'best guess' based on a lot of research, some creative accounting and shipping everything together. But, they are based on current exchange rates which may go up or down, and HMRC may pick whatever arbitrary figure they like when doing their calculations. I'm not making any money on this deal, so I would like everyone's agreement that if the figures are more than expected they will make good the difference? James and I have done our bests to keep costs down and calculate them accurately, but I have Corrados of my own, so I can't afford to be subsidising everyone elses!! ;-) If you can collect then great, otherwise next-day courier is £20 for the 70mm spoiler and rear wing, and £30 for the CF spoiler (since I will have to make a wooden box to put it in!). They aren't heavy, but they are large, and couriers like to charge 'volumetric weight' for large packages which pushes the price up. I would expect to get everything sent within a few days of the shipment arriving from James. If everyone is ok with this the please let us know and I'll post up my paypal info. Mikki :-)

£200 ish. Still need to work it out exactly.

Yeah I'm going with the plunger in the metering head too. I tested it on only a small opening, but did pull it all the way open by hand before that. I'll probably run some injector cleaner through it just in case there's some gum or something in there :)

Well I looked at them spraying in to jam jars while they were out ;) The spray pattern was actually pretty good, and they were all much the same. Not a perfect cone that you see in the pictures, but an even round spray. I was quite surprised tbh.

Jim we're looking at around £350 for the CF rear spoiler as part of a group buy.

Yeah probably :roll: The irony is though that is was being so awkward I bought a replacement, so now it is running its up for sale. Shot itself in the foot there I think.

Well prices aren't firm yet, but we're trying to get sub-£200 each for the fibreglass rear spoiler and the urethane front lip. I should have exact figures tomorrow, and I'll make a group buy thread. Also: :norty:

Well the bonus of the front spoiler is that you can't smash it because its made of flexible urethane ;) Plus you have an extra 20mm of ground clearance too. Pics of a painted fibreglass one: 8)

Exchange rate is 1.56 at the moment. Not awful, but not great either. The killer is import duty and VAT etc. Once the thieving toe rags at HMRC have had their way you're looking at roughly 40% over the purchase price to get them in to the country :bad-words: If enough people are interested then we'll see what we can do for the group-buy and take it from there. :cat:

Thanks ^ I tried all that stuff and got nowhere at all :( Cleaning the dizzy cap helped with starting but it still wouldn't run under 1500rpm. It would cough and splutter and was running mega-rich, and would die if I let off the throttle. So... I pulled the injectors to see if one was leaking, making it rich, and they are all perfect (at 200K). Put them all back in, and now its running perfectly. Go figure :scratch: I didn't change a single part, and now its just fine :cuckoo:

The fibreglass spoilers are $250 in the US, which is around £175 plus shipping. The CF ones are obviously quite a bit more, and there are two versions of those made with different production methods. If there is enough interest then I'll start a group buy thread so we can bring a bunch in together to optimise shipping costs and taxes

Both parts are from SpoonFedTuning in the US, designed by 'Dogger' on VWVortex. Thats his car in the pics :) I'll be acting as the UK agent if there is enough interest in them. Banan0r - I'll be getting back on with the V8 in the spring ;)

Hey all, Looky what I just bought for the Corrado V8 8) (this isn't my car btw! Mine haven't arrived yet) Extended rear spoiler: This piece comes in CF and plain fibreglass to be painted. Its based on the original, but has a little kick up at the back like the M3 CSL. I'll post pics of a painted one on a red C later, as that really shows off the shape. At the moment there are less than ten of these in existence and only 1 in Europe! 70mm (yes, 70!) front lip spoiler in urethane: The original 90mm is on the left, and the new one on the right. The urethane allows the spoiler to bend, rather than crack like the factory plastic one does, and is a nice compromise for lowered cars instead of using the 45mm US one :) I'm constantly scraping mine on the floor, and my car isn't even that low. What do y'all think? Pic of mine that they're going on: Mikki :cat:

Hi guys, Not quite the usual '16V won't start' thread - I searched and couldn't find anything similar... It's a '91 KR, and before xmas was becoming a pig to start when warm, but would start perfectly when cold. That appeared to be the vaccum switch on the fuel dizzy which was stuck closed, and I think it was flooding. I unplugged that, and it was then fine for a while, but then got hard to start hot or cold - it would turn over and cough until the battery was almost flat then fire and be fine. Then, after a couple of weeks of this one morning it just would not start whatever I tried. Fresh battery, plenty of fuel, vacuum thing plugged in or not, big fat sparks. It would spin but just wouldn't fire - it wouldn't even cough, so I left it and bought an A4 instead :roll: So, on to today. I've put some new spark plugs in, and some fresh fuel, and a fully charged battery and after a bit of cranking it finally started, but as soon as it tries to idle it just coughs and dies. I can keep it running at 2K or so, but let it get less than 1500rpm and it will cough and die again. It will start, run and die like this about 3-4 times, then just won't start again, and now the battery is flat again so I've come inside to seek advice! I have tried unplugging the cold-start injector in case its flooding, but then it won't start at all. The WUR measures 24ohms, so that seems fine, the broken vacuum switch is still disconnected, but that never seemed to have any effect anyway. If I unplug the ISV it won't start at all. Any suggestions please? I would like to get it running properly so that I can sell it. Thanks!

TDI swap! :cat:

This is likely to be the after-run temperatire sensor. It lives on the front left of the cam cover (looking at it) just above the alternator and has a single wire going to it. The thermo-switch goes bad and does exactly what you describe. Just remove the wire for now until you can source a replacement switch.

Yeah the 3.7 is a bit weak - torque is only 230 as well. It was deliberately detuned to differentiate the 4.2, but with 4.2 cams in it apparently gets a bit more interesting, and I'll probably get it remapped too. If its too slow then I can always throw a 4.2 in there instead. Or stick a blower on :nuts:

Unfortunately not :( Life and motorsports have been thoroughly getting in the way, and I had to take the web site down because people were copying my ideas. I'll hopefully get back on it in a couple of months. Thanks for the interest :cat:

We haven't cut anything off the legs yet - just the boot floor panel. The crossmember won't even fit between the Corrado legs :? I'll try and get some pics in the next day or two so you can see what I'm talking about and point out whatever it is we're missing :D

From trying to fit the Golf floor in! There is a good half inch difference between the top part of the Golf legs and the Corrado ones - where the Golf legs are extended upwards to meet the higher floor. I don't get it because I've never seen any mention of this before in any other conversions, but all the detailed reports I've found are for either the Passat floor or the brand new Rallye one. I'll try and get some pictures to show what I'm talking about. I suspect I'm probably missing something obvious :roll:

Bumpity bump :wave: Surely someone has done this conversion before with a 2nd hand floor?

It looks just like my 1.8 KR to me :shrug:

Oops! There is up to 7 bar of pressure in those hoses, so normal fuel hose just won't cut it. If heating it up doesn't work I really don't know how you will get that new hose on yourself. That said, I have solved problems with these before by taking the ends to a hydraulic specialist such as Pirtek and having them swage a new hose on, so it might be worth taking your new piece of VW hose to them and seeing what they can do. Failing that, try and find someone breaking a 16V and buy a secondhand one (or set). :cat:

I have had one circlip shear clean in half, so it left one D shaped bit in the damper rod, and the other C| (opposite piece) was floating free on the rod! I wouldn't believe it could happen if I hadn't see it. This was on the TDI. I've also had one circlip slip out of the groove because the groove was all rusted up, on a mk2. I have had both rears on the 16V daily punch through rusted top platforms too though. (I live in Devon btw. The roads are even harder on suspension than Sheffield! :gag: )