coullstar

At the track on Thr evening after a couple of sessions my car started to cut out intermittently under a lot of load. Its was ok when driving home but I tried it out again tonight and its doing exactly the same. Its like kangaroo jumping. Whats wrong?

I love those wheels!! Leave it dirty.

Therefore dubsport have charged £8k for labour.

I get about 29-30mpg from my 16v. Still pretty crap.

I love those Schmidt wheels on the Rallye!!!

DO NOT DO THIS. Springs will be too short and will dislocate when going over yumps etc. Always buy matched dampers for the springs. The handling will crap as well.

What the hell have you done to get 160bhp?

I could really learn to hate you :)

They should do.

I will do that after the track evening. I just some to replace these dodgy one before them.

Well I have changed the distributor cap and rotor arm as well as an oil/filter change and its made feck all difference!!! Money well spent, not. I checked the timing as well and its ok. This is really pissing me off now. :mad:

Well I cannot get any top mounts today. I tried everywhere. The nearset GSF place is 80miles away so I have ordered them through thier website. :mad: Tried a local place that would have to order and were charging £25+vat each!! Do GSF normally have these in stock as I need to fit them before the track evening on Thr?

I bought them about a year ago but only fitted them 4 weeks ago!!!!

Bugger looks like both will need replaced. Why does everything happen at once. Can you get these buggers from motor factors or is it only VAG that sell the VR top mounts?

Noticed this tonight. Its only been on the car for about a month. Other side appears fine and I have not really felt any difference. More shopping to do. :evil: I presume replacing one shouldnt matter?

The spring plates are what the top of the spring pushes against. There is also a rubber ring that the springs locate into and this sits between the spring and spring plate. They can rust quite badly so its best to replace them. GSF do both the plate and rubber and they aint expensive.

Any ideas on price for a new cap & arm from VW?

Looks like a lot of work has been put in but I am not a fan bodykits/lairypaint. Each to thier own though.

I managed to get up to 28mpg coming to work this morning but the exhaust still stinks of fuel. I have leaned it of a little more but it nowhas a very slight rough idle. If its the HT leads then there not cheap. I will give the car a good service (ooerr) this weekend and try to replace the dizzy cap and rotor and report back. One question though - how do you replace the rotor? Is it a case of simply pulling it off? :oops: (All these sexual conitations)

TazKenny I could turn the mixture adjustment screw clockwise but not the idle. I only got 24mpg on the way home so I mucked about with a bit more with the adjustment. I think it will be better if I take it to an MOT place to get it done. I did turn the distributor by by ~5deg but the car would not start. When I took the cap of to turn it back a load of pieces like caramalised brown sugar fell out . I will see what its like tomorrow but the exhaust still stinks of petrol but the plugs are nice and grey. I have to get this sorted as I am visiting the petrol station too regularly.

I didnt press down on the allen key when turning so that should be alright. Sounds like I have richened the mixture. The idle adjustment screw would not turn clockwise, only anit-clockwise.

I adjusted the CO at lunch but I was just wondering how far the screw has to be adjusted before the car runs too lean and valves start burning. I turned the screw ~ 1/4 turn clockwise. I noticed that the engine died slighty when a light pressure was applied ontot the allen key.

If you get the Corrado you have to put those BBS on it. They are lovely. Always liked the BBS RV's but they seem to be rare as hell.

Do you turn the dizzy clockwise (from passanger wing) to advance? I take it I have to remove the black and red wire when doing this?

I have been doing a bit more digging about and I think I might try and advance the timing till it pinks as they may have it adjusted for 95ron whereas I always use 98. Normally how far physically do you have to turn the distributor before the engine starts to pink? Is there a mark on the distributor cap that the rotor should be lined up with when at TDC on No1?