swiftkid

I'm afraid I can't help with the intake side of things as I'm R32 but I'm running teves20 but I used a ford focus master cylinder (same as ibiza cupra stubby) and I think the original corrado reservoir

A20Lee still belongs to A20LEE Renshaws is still owned by Vick but still in a whole lot of pieces, saw an update not long ago on instagram of some welding occuring Seen RAM's car a few times at the shows, think it's been changed hands a few times though Think Stormcharged's car has been bubble wrapped and put away in the loft so it doesn't lose its value Last time I saw tribetype's someone had bought it to revert it all back to a VR6 I think

I think the biggest thing for us Corrado owners is the whole thought process of "all you golf guys suck and we have a 2.9". The fact of the matter is, the 2.9 suffers from ovalisation of the bores more than 2.8. If you were thinking about swapping for the 2.8, get an OBD2 engine and just convert everything to OBD2. Having converted my 2.9 to OBD2, on paper the figures were not as impressive but real time driving, there was a massive mid range improvement with a bit of top end loss.

I'm almost 100% sure that the mk4 R32 is the same height as the VR6, it's the mk5 & Audi that are shallower...

I think that's the mk4 sump which is the same height as the VR6 just in alloy. Have a look here: https://www.vr6oc.com/forum/forums/topic/18007-the-32-sump-on-a-vr6-thread/ Says the mk5 R32 sump part no. is 022 103 601R

17x8 et35 is apparently the perfect fit for a 17" wheel, have a look at the BBS RS301's, that's the same spec and are definitely the most sought after wheel for the corrado, but also the most insanely priced second hand wheel on the planet. That said, I think most people running that setup do roll the arches just in case. Physically it will fit but the lower you go, the more chance of catching the arch.

Ahh kufatec, the most unhelpful people on the planet! Yes I agree the durite is a pain, you have to bend the ends of the pin to get them to work properly. I still need something to do the micro terminals as they are an absolute pain to depin and the durite don't go small enough

They are called junior power timer terminals, you get male, female and the micro ones. You also get grommet type and non-grommet type so just be aware of that. I got all mine from 3waycomp on ebay, he was always very helpful so I'm sure he could provide you with a selection pack. Don't forget the durite multi tool & a proper ratchet crimping tool, you will absolutely not regret getting a decent one as I use mine all the time!! Mines similar to this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Voilamart-Ratcheting-Professional-Connectors-Screwdriver/dp/B07F9VBMW4/ref=sr_1_20?keywords=crimping+tool&qid=1582193446&sr=8-20

Lol, it's swiftkid btw (first car was a swift gti & I can't be bothered to change username) Anyway, the look of a tyre very much comes back to tyre choice, on my old valver I ran 16x7.5 wheel with 195/45/16 yokohama, it had a little bit of a stretch on it but not too daft. I went to get a replacement tyre and Yokohama had discontinued the tyre with the S-drive, I asked if it was the same width etc. and was told "Yes, it's exactly the same profile". After fitting it, it was completely different, I might as well have gone from a 195 to a 225!! 2 hours down the road and it caught so badly the arch hit the tyre, unfolded itself and took a huge lump out the tyre! And that's 2 tyres from the same manufacturer! I'm running 16x8.5 (195/45) & 16x9.5 (215/40) and they poke less than my 16x9 staggered set. I know Falken's have a tendency to stretch more, Toyo are sort of middle men, anyone who fits those horrific nankang ditchfinders need shooting but they stretch quite a bit. I rolled and pulled my arches slightly, I would definitely advise rolling them. I was getting my car resprayed so I wasn't bothered about splitting the paint but with a heat fun and a proper roller I managed to do it without even damaging the paint!

Without teaching you how to suck eggs I'll start with the basics and if you already know it happy days. ET is the measurement in mm from the centreline of the wheel (alloy) to the mounting face to the hub of the wheel. Why they do wheels in inches and offset in mm is beyond me. The difficulty with some of the measurements on that website is they are 'perfect world' calculations and no 2 tyres are ever the same. you could go from a bridgestone to a goodyear and find the profile is completely different. When they say the tyre will stick out 33mm further this is based on the edge of the estimated tread to the new line of the estimated tread and same with the wheel itself. You could go from a 7" wheel to a 9" wheel whilst retaining the same tyre and the wheel will stick out further but the edge of the tread won't, hence the dimension. Basically you are correct that you could run staggered wheels of the same width to get the right look. I ran a 9" front and back et15 & et25.

It's the life of Corrado ownership, when things don't go right interest soon drops off. I'm the same at the moment, think me and phil are going to try get a 2 for 1 price for an exorcist to come and get rid of the demons in our cars. I'll drop him another text and poke him to give it another go for this summer.

After the first Horizon came out the standard Forza's are a bit boring for me now, I just like blasting round the roads. I'm on Horizon 4 a few times a week but mostly just for an hour or so

I've got a couple, I've got the hand held cheapy one & a Sykes Pickavant vice mount one. The cheapy one is a pain to use, takes a bit of practice and sometimes takes a couple of attempts to get a good flare. The Sykes Pickavant vice mount one is worth its weight in gold. They aren't cheap but they come up on ebay all the time, think I paid about £70 for mine but I redid my entire brake system and was dead easy to use and gave perfect flares every time.

Sorry I get you now, I used the entire lupo shifter housing and mech with the mk4 tower, can't help with part numbers as I just went looking round a scrappy for a lupo with aluminium shifter housing. I already had the mk4 tower so didn't get the lupo tower but might be the same. Apparently you can get a full setup from an ibiza but not sure on that.

He did buy a house! and is currently having an ongoing battle with power steering or lack of which seems not to be broken parts but hidden demon spirits causing chaos. Replaced literally every single part in the power steering assembly and still having same problem... Corrado's eh, who'd have them!!!

Not sure which part number you are after but it's all in this thread http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?54167-MK4-Polo-Shifter

There's a DIY guide on here but basically it's a polo/lupo shifter & mk4 shifter tower and swap them over. People say you need the polo/lupo shifter casing and mk4 internals but I sourced a full polo shifter and couldn't see any difference between that and the mk4 stuff so just fitted the full polo shifter. The MK4 shift tower comes in an early ball joint setup and a later pin type setup, I preferred the pin type as in my mind there is less to wear. I also added a mk1 TT shifter weight to shorten the throw even more. End result, everything I bought was second hand and it's all solid and the throw in all directions is massively improved, I don't feel like I'm going to wrap my knuckles on the dash or reach into the boot when changing to 2nd.

Presume you are wanting to keep it all original but I would 100% recommend binning it off and going 02J, it not only improves the throw in all directions but makes everything nice and solid again. Bonus being all mk4 parts are dead easy to come by and it all looks original anyway

Sound about right, the 90 degree twist test was always my base setting when I did cam belt. Just check the bottom cover isn't binding against the pulley, that used to happen a lot. Also to test if it's power steering just take the belt off and see if it still makes the noise, you can easily get that too tight or too slack with that toothed adjuster attached to alternator.

It looks like the recently restored JMR one, shame the owner has spent so much money on it just to sell it. Whoever is willing to spend that sort of money will most likely sit it at the back of a garage collecting dust ready to sell it on again in 10 years

The R32's were always 3.2, the 4motions had the 2.8. The 2.8 makes 204bhp standard and map to about 240bhp but even at standard power the torque curve is far superior to the VR6. The R32's have VVT and variable intake (basically VW's own Schrick). As for the R32, I've seen between 260-290bhp after a map so a decent power gain. The 6 speed boxes are a direct fit for the VR6 as the blocks are basically the same, I'm running a VR6 box on my R32. People do fit the V5 box as thats a 6 speed FWD box & straight fit but for the 4WD you'd need to cap off the transfer box. I definitely wouldn't recommend fitting a 6 speed box to a corrado, the gearing is far too close with our tiny wheels, the standard box is 3.9 ratio, the G60 gearing mod takes it down to 3.6 so acceleration is rapid but motorway cruising is pretty bad at around 4k I think. With a 6 speed box I think I worked out you'd be doing near 4k at 70/80 but you'd go through the gears like crazy.

Is this the one JMR have just finished restoring?

Not sure I quite agree with that. I've gone VR6 to R32 and after a remap I'll be at near 280bhp compared to 190bhp on my cam'd, obd2, mapped & tired VR6. I'll be perfectly honest it's been on my mind to go back to VR6 for quite some time but it would have to be a fully forged VRT which isn't cheap. The major benefit to a 24v is the bottom end power which walks all over the VR6 but I agree the 24v does not even come close to that VR6 roar.

If you remove the door handle there's a white plastic dome cover over the striker, you can unscrew that to adjust it but be warned it only needs tiny movement otherwise you'll snap the lever. To be honest as soon as it starts becoming difficult to open, I'd get a replacement striker on order edit: just had a look on google and my advice may be wrong as I had passat delocked rears before swapping to A3. The passat does have the adjustment but not sure if the corrado did

I'm fairly sure they were all silver. Only ones I've ever seen black (including mine) were sprayed. You'll need the badge, the black plastic insert and the 2 blue plugs for the holes, assuming they weren't welded up