swiftkid

Mine is a 95 vr6 and is cp, or was before I went obd2... And then r32. Golf ecu's don't work, you need a matching corrado ecu.

Ag does not work on cp, I can confirm that first hand. Ag is non immobilised old style maf (I think) and cp is new style maf, plus ecu plugs are different (small plastic tab to stop it plugging in)

I don't think it is obd2 but same principle, the immobilisers are interchangeable

The immobiliser (box behind the dash) checks the signal from the key and sends the OK signal to the ECU. I've had many a problem with those before, when I did my OBD2 conversion it used to run fine for a couple of weeks then just randomly not start, usually whilst I was parked up in the middle of town :bad-words: I'd try get to the immobiliser box, check all the earths and clean the plugs with electrical cleaner. If the garage has tested your car with a non immobilised ECU that only confirms that immobiliser is the problem, it doesn't confirm its the ECU. I havn't done it for a while but you can scan the immobiliser module in vagcom and it should (I think) tell you more specifically what the problem is, the engine module usually just says immobiliser problem.

I can't get access to wiring diagrams at work but I believe you have the blue wire for battery warning light and the other is tacho signal on some cars (W signal)? Not sure on that I'm afraid. As for the lights, I would say thats too much of a coincidence that engine fired up before front end was built and now fuel pump is priming with lights. Have you checked that you havn't trapped an earth as you were putting the front end on? Usual place is front of chassis legs where slam panel bolts on. Have you tried unplugging all the lights and trying to fire up the engine? I realise its a bit of a pain but maybe take front end back off again to eliminate the variable of the front end causing issues.

Cp is an immobiliser ecu, but still it would let it fire up then cut out. Doh, fla is right but if you've checked anyway that rules that out. You could unplug ecu plug and test for continuity to main plug then onwards for there

You had it plugged into vagcom? You checked ECU relay? Main engine plug seated correctly and earths all nice and secure? When you did fusebox did you push the securing pin across? I realise these are all things you have no doubt checked but thought I'd ask anyway

Pm received, money sent

Precisely, thats all people mean when they say splicing. All you are actually doing is converting the R32 loom to plug into the Corrado fusebox, the splicing bit is just removing the plugs from the Corrado loom (or any CE2 loom) and adding them to the R32 loom. I think the plugs I used were F, G1, G2, Z and Earth, K-line (small single plug), aux water pump (small yellow double plug) and maybe another 1 or 2. I bought all new terminals from this guy (very helpful): http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/3waycomp?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 and this crimping tool: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Crimping-Pliers-Removable-Attachments-Crimper/dp/B008DSP2BS/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1447159437&sr=8-20&keywords=crimping+tool

Can I take the oil cooler please

I need to get a ride in a vrt. Got 2 engines sat in my garage just waiting to get the turbo treatment. I have to admit, I have a 2.25 inch exhaust system and it does feel a little restrictive, dunno if it's just me

Haha, yea its my intention to do some smoothing but never welded in my life so I'll have to get practicing, nothing major just want it to look factory clean. Like I said previously, I didn't touch the corrado loom, I went to upullit (scrapyard near york if you havn't heard of it, like a candy shop for cars) and snipped the plugs off. Theres a mk3 golf in at the moment you could get the loom out of, I'm going up this weekend for parts. People talk about splicing but all it actually is, is putting the F, G1 & G2 plugs onto the R32 loom and making sure the right wires have power. I know that makes it sound a lot easier but I'm glad I did it myself and seeing what Russ has built I'm sure between you both, you'd easily be able to sort it

Usual winter tidy up, I intended to chuck it in and iron out and hiccups before I properly routed all the wiring etc. Dunno what your plan is but I ended up wiring everything in including sai and evap canister to get fuel trim working

If you go to a scrappy look out for a 5 stud GTI, if it has a pad retainer (silver funny shaped pin) its 288mm, if it doesn't they are most likely 280mm.

Nup, as vag hag says top rad Hose is different

I spoke with the business development manager today as he is getting me some 3D models of products for work, to try and get some drawings but unfortunately got the same answer. He said to speak to vw, but said to let him know if we get anywhere so might try speak to someone in vw

Haha, I'm loving all owners mates commenting on the ad saying "will yours be ready?". Seems there is a bit of a theme here...

Look pretty decent, where did you get them from?

My work buy stuff direct from hella and I've actually been chatting with a sales rep today so might have a word, see if he can be of any assistance

Soo... You decided to try the wiring yourself? I'll be stripping mine this winter so can compare looms?

I wouldn't mind having a spare, especially seeing the extortionate prices people are selling things for at the moment

Flux capacitor settings

I think I'll have to grab a decent picture when its not getting dark, pic looked a lot better on my phone! Cheers, I was very lucky when I bought this house! just need to sort the lighting out, only got 1 feeble fluorescent in there at the moment. I've been doing a bit of research into getting the tacho working on the r32 conversion and hopefully, with a little luck, I may have found a way to get all the signals I need direct out of the CANbus system which would mean accurate MPG reading, oil temp from sump and tacho which will be awesome. Will have to see if my plan comes together and if so I'll be sharing my findings!

I've got a sip low profile one, comes with a rubber top that just sits on the jacking base. Massively impressed and very sturdy, not the cheapest or the lightest but I wanted one that would last and wouldn't fall to bits Edit: this one http://www.sipuk.co.uk/sip-03914-2-5-ton-low-profile-trolley-jack.html

Time to go into hibernation, hopefully come out when it's summer looking better. Still after some nice brakes and a change of wheels if anyone has anything?