PROVR6

Dsc02322.jpg[/attachment:1rljixpo] Ive finally got some time on my hands so thought Id give this a go. Ive searched the posts but can't find any with pics of the process for a VR6. Hopefully this will help a few others too. Im a bit of a noob and don't want to screw it up so have a few questions before I attempt it. I assume the metal piece is the ISV and the black plastic bit (with tape around it in my pic) is the damper pot. Ive a few questions. 1) How do you disconnect the damper pot from the ISV. Its held on not with jubile clips but with metal rings with teeth. Do these have to be cut off or can they be undone and reused? 2) The ISV is held by a rubber thing attached to the car which dosen;t look easily removed. Does the ISV just slide out leaving the housing in place? 3) Which holes in the ISV do you spray with carb cleaner or both? Do you also spray the damper pot with CCleaner? Your help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mark

Cracking race, think Lewis had the luck of a thousand sheep dogs though. Still over the season he was the best.

I have replaced the fuel pump relay in the last month. It only does it when its first started from cold but not until about 2 mins worth of driving. No lights come on the dash until you pull over when the battery light starts to flicker when the engine tries to stall. If i wait about 30secs & start it again its usually fine, but I had to start it twice today to clear the problem. It starts up very easily. The problem dosen't occur when idling and engine revs cleanly when you pull the throttle form within the bay. When it starts to happen you can't acclerate properly and can't get over about 50mph. If you drop a gear & floor it in anger it does accelerate after an initial hesitancy (like turbo lag) but once you change up you can't accelerate and have to pull over and stop. Im thinking it could be either ignition leads, coilpack or fuel pump but its weird that it drives without fault after the initial problem.

Sorry should have said VR6.

Thats a very good description Dukest of my symptoms. My car did it when I first got it but it hadn't been driven in 4 months and figured it was that. It was fine all summer but seems to have returned. Its a bit disconcerting when the power goes and cars line up behind you while you look for a safe place to pull over. Turn it off leave about 30secs and its fine and won't do it again all day. Its like a misfire but prolonged. It also feels like lack of fuel. Could it be fuel pump or would that cause problems all the time? Would Vagcom diagnose the problem?

Ive got an annoying problem that is bugging me. When I start the car from cold and set off the car is fine for about 5 mins then it just loses power and grinds to a halt (the symptoms are a bit like when you run out of petrol). When it starts to happen you can change down a gear and floor it and sometimes it clears it but usually comes back. It happened today and I pulled over, it dosen't stall the engine although it tries too but the revs shoot up as its about to stall. If I give it some gas the rev counter goes up but the engine note dosen't correpsond like its being held back. I turned the ignition off and started it again but it did the same thing. Left it a couple of mins, started and it was completely fine. It dosen;t do it at all once the engine is hot. It now seems to do this everytime I take it for a drive from cold (Usually left standing for a week between drives). I think it first started after I changed my engine cover plastics. I disconnected the leads at the coil pack end and when I replaced them I noticed the white plastic bit inside one of them was very loose and had to be quite precise about lining it up when reconecting. Do you think it could be lead related? Ive had a new fuel filter in the last year. Is this something that could be diagnosed by plugging into Vagcom? All help appreciated guys&girls.

I think he will probably change his mind when you tell him the repair cost. From his perspective it would be much more economic to lose his no claims but if hes willing to pay let him. Providing your insurance company dosen't want to write it off, I think it will be less hassle for you to get it repaired through your insurance. Your own insurance will cover the repairs and in the background your insurance company will try to recover the costs from the other party. You won;t have to wait around while blame is being argued.

Sorry for the mini Hijack - Can I ask where you got them, as these are on my to do very soon list. Anyone know how they compare to the lupo wipers?

If you do make a claim and blame is not appointed to the other driver, you will lose one years bonus as its not protected. The fact you have already reported it will be noted as you have been involved in an accident. Even if you decide to repair it yourself your premium will probably go up a bit but you won't lose any no claims. Its a f***er when this happens as it always costs the innocent party.

It won't last buddy. I top my talc up every time I go for a drive. :camp:

Ive got several cars myself and the corrado is the one I don't need but is the one I want most of all. I probably only do about 3000 miles in it a year. It was due its tax this week and £185 is a bummer when you don't use it all the time. Yeah there are some nice cars out there which are no doubt more reliable and comfortable but they are ten a penny. When I was paying for petrol the other day, I looked out at the pumps and realised how timeless the corrado looks. If you can justiy keeping it I would. Im 34 by the way and hope Ive still got mine when im 40.

i thought wire transfers were risky (for the purchaser) as there is no way of tracing them.

any pics mate? :D

Thanks for that. I have got the hoop so im sure I can fashion something together. Nice looking bay.

When I put mine on I parked up dead straight and put the steering wheel on. However when I started driving in a straight line I found the wheel did not look straight. Had to make a mental note of how far out it looked, parked up straight again and put the wheel on slightly off center and was straight when driving. Took 2 attempts though as I over compensated. There deffo is no auto centering.

Any chance of a pic of the fixings for the BMC as Ive just bought one of the forum and not 100% sure how to install it.

Have you tried Black Wow? Ive not tried it personally but heard good things about it. http://www.detailedobsession.com/catalo ... ews_id=152

Where did you get it from buddy and how much was it?

Battery can die overnight if its on its way out. Try charging it first before changing it. Ive got a solar trickle charger on mine that plugs into the cigar socket. If the battery won't hold a charge then a trickle charger ain;t much use.

Id go all beige, carpets,seats, doorcards and tunnel. Or another option would be all black and sell me the beige :D

2nd that

Thats a sickner. It seems with C's that once you get one niggle sorted another one comes along. Don't worry, once youve got your new brakes on you will soon forget about it.

Brakes look nice, are they HI-Spec ones? Im refurbing some 288mm brakes and thats the exact colour Im after. Does anyone know if you can get a gold caliper paint with a similar finish?

Incidentally, which one is the correct part no on the ecp site as they have one at £6.50 and another at a whopping £58 http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecommerce/S ... esults.asp

Got mine from GSF and yeah its pants. Think ill try that.