PROVR6

Whoa Scary. Ive done this today and got a thread going with the same thing. I also missed the screw behind the speaker grill, wish Id seen these pics first. DOH

That sounds like the bit Ive missed. Does the circular metal speaker grille just prise out from the front to reveal the screw or do you remove the whole doorpod.

Set about tackling this today. Its bloody freezing and blowing a Gale, typical :( Ive come accross a hurdle removing the door card. Ive undone all the screws and removed the various bits of trim. When I lift the door card off the bottom of the 4 clips at the bottom of the door it seems to be attached still near the speaker and I can see a piece of brass metal. (Ive disconnect the speaker wire terminal). Ive given it a good wiggle but don't want to force it. Any idea what's keeping the doorcard on please?

TBH Toad, Ive got a horrible feeling thats what Im going to have to do. I can live with that till im a bit more flush with money to get it sorted properly. Was it easy to do?

Where is the engine sensor location?

Ive got a similar thread going, but my problem is nowhere near as bad as what you describe. Someone suggested it could be a duff or failing cat. Is yours good?

Im not 100% sure on that but think its clicking in the drivers door.

It does click when I push the switch in either direction, would that not indicate the motor and switch are ok? When you say connect with wire, is just a reel of thin copper wire ok?

I believe Beru are the manufacturer of the original leads and the leads from VW will be made by Beru. You can also get Beru leads from places like GPC, GSF, ECP, VWspares etc cheaper than VW. Yes a fine mist from a flower sprayer is exactly what I meant.

The glass does seem to have quite a bit of play in it, ie it moves in and out quite a bit. I guess this could indicate it has come out of the guide. I can move the glass with the suction lifter and force. Whereabouts do you unbolt the glass? Ive attached a pic of what I expect to see when I remove the door card. Door.jpg[/attachment:11u495kx]

It could well be the problem. Have you also tried spraying a mist of water on the coil pack to test it? If the revs drop as you do it, its likely faulty. New leads Beru ones (OEM) I believe are about £60. Spark plugs about £8. Just get the NGK ones plenty of threads on them.

Getting ready to tackle this at the weekend. Ive found the attached diagram of the workings of the window mechanism and been doing some reading up on the problem. Door mech.gif[/attachment:k2rsvt9l] The window is currently taped up and I have a glass suction lifter which I can pull the window up with(struggle to get fully closed though) but obviously falls back to its current location From what Ive read the installation of a new mechanism is expensive and a pig to do. Don't fancy drilling out the rivets and its not a job I feel up to tackling. As a temporary repair, Ill be happy to get my window closed and secure. Ive read that the arms can be pulled back and some wood installed to wedge the window. Does this sound feasible and do you think I will be able to easily raise the window to the shut position with the door card off? Got to say this is a real f****r if this happens as it so expensive to get put right. Ill post some pics of how I get on.

Thanks Valerian. Ive not removed the door card before but Ive checked the searches and it looks straightforward, so Ill do that at the weekend. If its come out of the rear guide is it just a case of manhandling it back in?

Just picked the car up from the garage to change my squealing aux belt to a proper VW one, turned out it was the tensioner that was faulty, which they changed before I could tell them about changing just the bearing. Still least Ive got a spare :| While driving went to wind the window down and nothing. Got home and saw the window was open about 1cm. Now don't know if the garage left it like that or not as I wasn't looking for it. The window won't go up or down by pressing the switch but I do get a get a click each time the switch is pressed. Passenger side is fine. I tried to see if I could move the window up by hand by pushing and pulling a bit which resulted in the window sticking open by about 2 inches :gag: Ive left it now covered over with some polythene. The window does seem to wobble more than the passenger ie in and out. Is it possible it has come out of its guide and is this easy to fix? Ive had a search which came up with replacement window mechanisms which looks a bit daunting. Has this happened to anyone else as Id be grateful for some pointers.

Fill the forms out and don't worry about it. You can then prove you carried out the correct procedures to the best of your knowledge. The worst that could happen is that you have to give the car back but you won't have to. You've got a chance for a nice freebie, ave it :D

Sitting in the car with a hosepipe is a good idea and the best way to find the cause. To check if its coming in through the foliage grill, you will get a slow drip from under the passenger glove compartment as the water travels down through the blower housing. Even if you have changed the seal, its worth sticking some sealent arount the plastic grill. Its worth poking some thin wire into the 4 sunroof holes as far as it will go to to make sure they're not blocked. If the water was coming in through a crack in the windscreen, would you not see water on your dash?

The only saving grace is his insurance will cover it. If someone did that to a corrado its a Write off everytime. I think they are cowards and probably just kids.

How did you get the lenses off alonso?

The NGK ones come preset at the right gap spacing as well :D

Finally got round to cleaning my MAF and ISV. Took the car for a run and all was fine. That dosen't mean to say its cured the problem as some days it dosen't do it. Paulhan: The Cat is a posibility and I do have a spare which I thought I was going to need to pass emissions on the MOT but didn't need it. I might give that a try. I have driven other cars where the CAT has failed and they were down on power but would still accelerate. If it was the CAT would it not do it all the time? Stoney: Glad Im not the only one, but sorry yours does it too.

Are your plugs clean? Leaky injectors or blocked?

Have you tried a solar trickle charger that plugs in the cig socket to keep the battery topped up?

The dealer doesn't think its a component you can buy. Took it out just in case it gets sucked down the throttle body. Gonna try to repair it tommorow with some chemical metal. Anyone got a spare one from a faulty MAF?

Thanks guys :D

Dsc02324.jpg[/attachment:12pmoawo] Ok, I was disconnecting the airbox to measure the diameter of silicone needed for my CDA. Put the airbox back together and broke the metal filter at the end of the MAF. Does anyone know if you can buy these as a standalone part. They clip out easily. Or does it even matter?