boost monkey

You assume right :|

^^^ :lol: yet to see a twin engined car on here - god knows I have enough spare subframes and suspension (and engines :shock:) to cut and shut the back of the plum, but absolutely zero cashola! :bonk:

You might want to post this up in the Forced Induction VR6 thread.

Cool, cheers for the tip Jay :salute: Now I wonder where that old red book has got to... :scratch:

Exige S2 in orange last time I checked the thread.

voltage regs just fail sometime dude, the alternator has big holes all over it to let the heat out and crud sometimes gets in and gunks them all up :gag:

do you know that the 3 1-pin sensors on that end of the engine are working? One of them is the thermotime switch for the ISV. The plot thickens...

personally I wouldn't worry about it, the std lights are so weak you probably use more current for that little flashing LED for your alarm. But if you want to fix it, I'd recommend a new headlight switch.

weird stuff. oh well, hope you get it sorted, get your magnifying glass out and check those vac hoses!

The car is yet to be painted, it's in primer. Well done everyone for reading the Vortex post properly :nuts: :bonk:

oh dear :sad: keep going with it though! it's always a love-hate thing.

Unfortunately, I don't have my haynes to hand, that quote sounds quite odd though: the plug for the ISV is nowhere near the coil, it's near the distributor if anything :scratch: what is the "cap"? :scratch: Are you definitely looking at the 16v ISV stuff and not the 8v?

the brass screw will always make a difference, I'm on my 4th KR engine now :salute: The Red Mk2 Golf haynes is a good book to have though for sure. I didn't know the car would settle in a default mode with it unplugged though, interesting stuff.

:shock: woah, what happened? Did you leave your car in a salt mine or something? :/

Yeah that TB screw is miles out! If you like, I can wind mine all the way back in and then tell you how many turns it should be? Mine idles at 900 now and revs properly. Also check the ignition timing like Valerian said. Although if it's been working fine before the metering head died, then ll the timing should be fine? With the vacuum hoses, you really do need to have eagle eyes to be able to spot a dead one sometimes! Definitely worth making sure they're all intact and connected properly. If the ISV is dead and you unplug it, the car will probably still run as it is now. Just unplugging a dead part won't solve anything? They are always worth cleaning though, get some carb cleaner into it.

Good work charley. So will that be the 8th set of chains to go on the VR? :norty:

Drained and flushed the system this avo with tap water. Am I right in thiking this is the route the coolant follows: expansion tank, hose, metal pipe, hose, water pump, coolant jacket in block, cylinder head flange, hose, radiator, hose, water pump (via thermostat) ? So, I can flush the whole system by just taking the bottom rad hose off and tipping water down through the expansion tank? That's what I was doing and it was coming out the rad, so it makes sense that this is the path the coolant follows.

Ace :clap:

It was the one I always have problems with, the 3-branch which goes from water pump to sandwich plate and then vertical to the front flange. I guess I hadn't seated the spring clip properly when I reattached it all. Temp didn't pass 98 even though it was idling for 30mins which was quite nice, just gotta drain the flush solution out, rinse through with the hose and then should be all good!

Leak was one of the hoses, so that's fixed now. This morning in pictures: Everything reconnected. New water pump, pulley, thermostat, stat flange and expansion tank. New pump and pulley spinning away... PAS system left off for now, will put it back on shortly. Tank took 5 litres (50/50 with coolant flush - G12 comes later) almost rose to the lid, but the stat opened and then the level stabilised here. Car still on stands so level off by a few mm. Fan came on at approx. 96 degrees Tank steamed a little, but it was 15 degrees outside and windy! Can't take it for a drive yet: Car needs steering U/J and then aligning all around! :sad: But the Plum is back 8) ...

ace :salute:

Just want to add: I have no issues with Mr. Renshaw - never met him and meant no personal slight if my posts seemed as such:salute: I have no issues with the new owner, Vick: welcome to the party! :nuts: I don't regard the car in question as a "show car" and even less a "chequebooked" car; I just am drawn to the engineering aspectmore than the cosmetic / interior mods :|, which are a great read :cheers: Now then, let's all hug, get some Cocoa and watch the sound of music :bonk:

so what's the diff between R32 and other 24valves? Did I sleep through something? looking good though Karl, any running vids? :grin:

So, I put the pump on today, torqued all the bolts, connected all the pipes and fan belt. Starting filling it up with the Coolant Flush stuff, had a nosey about and saw the oil filter was dripping. That's odd, it's dripping yellow/green :scratch: what's that then? The coolant flush does say on the back to leave the stuff in the system when up to temperature until it runs clear, so maybe that's the stuff I just put in and it's changed colour already? Obviously dripping from the heat exchanger sandwich plate, so maybe that's died. Would a leaky sandwich plate cause my overheating issues? Bear in mind the car isn't running at this point and it's dripping about 2 drops per second which is unpressurised.

Connecting rod shell bearing nuts for PG engine, as per Bentley: 30Nm (22ft lb) + 1/2 turn (180 degrees) (DO NOT TURN FURTHER) lubricate contact surfaces to measure radial play, tighten to 30Nm (22ft lb) do NOT tighten further. :salute: