boost monkey

by mean you mean yellow :| p.s. this is in the post, happy christmas

Green and Red make orange do they? Think it's a trip back to primary school for you, fella! :lol:

thats good news, cheers for that. did you by any chance get a part number, :salute:

Ohh now you mention heat too! Well yeah that would help! :grin:

Thanks matey, yeah engine went in Christmas / New Year by Russ (PO), and had circa 110k when it went in. In the 5 months I've had it, I've prob done another 3000 ish. So that coolant has done 7 months and 4000 miles tops I'd think... scary huh! I got stuck on the M25 coming back from the airport one time for over an hour and car never overheated. Oil temp peaked at 104C and it was a hot day too. It was then that I had a sense of new found confidence in it! :luvlove:

Hmm not sure Dec, I've snapped just the little brake disc grub screws in hubs before and snapped a high quality tap trying to get it out. And I doubt the wheel bolts will be softer metal for safety reasons :shrug:

Both Late Mk2 Golf and Corrado hubs seem to have the part numbers of 357407255C (left) and 357407255C (right). That is for the KR (aka 16v) and PL engined golf, so if the 1.8 8v Mk2 Golf GTi engine code is PL then it should be fine and you can use it. (If not, I have a spare corrado hub you can have pretty cheap. It will need a new wheel bearing in though.) With regards to the brake question, I think you need the hubs with the brakes cos the 8v cars ran 239mm brakes and the 16v ran the 256s (same as Corrado 16v)? no idea on spacers and bolts, sorry.

Yeah, I hear you. Not really any flushing opportunities at my house (outside tap but no hose) so it would have been many jugs! :| G12 is only £10 for 3 litres it seems so if I think about doing a flush when I'm better off then it's not a big deal. I think when people realise the back history the car has had, and the fact that it is a £400 corrado, they will begin to be as unsurprised as I am when I find these sort of things! If I had the garage space, it would already be a shell but I don't so just gotta make do :shrug: It's all academic at the moment anyways, as it looks like it will be SORN at the end of the month. Tax money will definitely break the camel's back so to speak.

Did you not see the kitchen sink? :lol: I drained it from everywhere. The tank was coming off anyways , as was that top hose, and I did the lower rad hose as you say. Didn't flush the system this time, running quite lean on the funds being unemployed and all. In fact the oil and G12 was my only justifiable expense last week! :shrug: You're right, there will be a ton more inside the hoses and the water jacket around the bores, but at the moment this is the best it can do. At least it is miles better than before, and strangely enough never overheated....which is nice. yeah, metal pipe is on the list for sure :salute: hoses are kind of an as and when which is sooo not how I like to do things, but beggars can't be choosers (literally). Tbh, I wouldn't be surprised if it's suffered hot oil damage: Engine before this blew its HG and I have no evidence that the hoses got changed when that happened, so they could all be weakened. Might explain why that top one bulged so much. Seems to yeah... I mean, I am checking the temperature off the oil temp on the MFA cos my coolant guage still doesn't work (a combination of possible dead sensors, a hopeless wiring loom and me still not being able to find definitive guides to it all...) but the oil got to about 92, the fan came on and then switched off again, and then did so again 1 or 2 more times before I decided I was happy with it and turned the engine off to let it cool (so I could check the cold level and top up if needed). Only took about 5 litres in the end, thought it would have taken more, and is approximately 40:60 Coolant to Water.

Ah yeah, do that. I forget the PS reservoir is much easier to clean than the coolant expansion tank.

So I did the coolant change today, although started the prep yesterday. Here are a few thousands words: As you can see, the MIN and MAX lines pretty much blur into nothingness... :shrug: This is not a fresh flow... serious sediment in here :pukeright: Luckily, I had a kitchen sink located in the NS wheelarch. Should be pink? :sad: The sediment... like a miniature quarry :brickwall: Tank after some serious Marine Clean attacks, not really abrasive enough but the MIN and MAX can be seen now (No I don't have the £££ for a new tank :| ) Fatty Boom Batty pipe, and the slimline replacement from spare engine... kan haz Mk2 Glof part numbr? Mmm, clean and fresh. Tank after a run up cycle, cool down and a level check. No leaks at all :salute: Now that the Coolant and the Oil have both been changed, I can't get the oil temp to go past 100, gets to 98 and then starts going back down. Thermal Efficiency winnage! :clap:

if you don't wanna put it in the dishy, use a dishy tablet. mash it up a bit (but so there's still some granules left) and lob it in the reservoir with some hot ish water and get your maraca on. That works quite well. Remember the tabs are like really concentrated soap though so only use a little bit or be ready to rinse it out a lot after!

needs lowering :lol: seriously, nice car mate. What 4 branch have you got? I had an ashley on my Golf and it was the boyyyy.

There's no bonnet stay hand grip :lol: so maybe yes!

ditto possible cracked manifold.

Good work buddy. I'm guessing you sealed the bodywork before primering it all as some of that grey stuff is porous :ignore:

Hey, I'm just going on what I've been told.... :|

Nice car Mrs. B I have a horrible feeling that you're gonna rue the day you put a car seat down on gravel though: the grease on the rails is really really thick and easily picks up little stones, which then get stuck :brickwall: Hopefully that won't have happened though :grin: So when are you gonna schrick that fool and boost it until it peals down the road like some kind of screaming banshee? :cheers:

Possibly yeah mate, i'd recommend adjusting the screw when you can though, I don't think bending the bracket is the workshop way of getting the idle microswitch to work.

Awesome! I'll adda pas pump tpo my list then :nuts: :brickwall:

Dude :shock: you drove your car when it was leaing petrol? You know the tank is next to the exhaust right...and the exhaust can get quite hot.... both of them together can make you quite dead.

Glad you got it fixed, but there is actually a little screw that adjusts the brackets distance from the microswitch when the throttle is closed - no bending necessary! :shrug:

OMG! :shock: I stand massively corrected. Hi Mrs. B :wave:

Am I the only one who has a dead ignition switch carbon bonded and screwed into the lock mounting? :sad: No way is it a 5min job on my car! :brickwall:

Huh... I wonder why the PAS pump is different? Thanks for the price Steve.