boost monkey

Oh of course! :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall:

the bits either side of the grille?

That definitely rings bells! Yes... I think the shafts do indeed spin clockwise from the flywheel end! :shock:

That looks very interesting! Has he joined the front/slam panel to the back of the bumper then? The headlight apertures look pretty cool I reckon.

It would be really nice if I could post on a thread without getting pedantic replies. Don't think it's too much to ask really. :shrug:

Hi Timmy, Are you referring to the K shaped main engine subframe or the beam at the front which has the front engine mount on? I refer to the K-shaped bit as the engine subframe and the front mount beam as the cross-member (like VW states) but a lot of people call the K-shaped part the REAR subframe and the front beam the FRONT subframe. very confusing!

In an open system such as this wouldn't an increase in air pressure also generate an increase in volume (or mass) flow rate? 'chargers increase air pressure which means there are more air molecules in a given space (the combustion cylinder) at any one time. It's not like i'm saying that compressing gas in a sealed container increases it's mass is it :roll: Please do elaborate if I am wrong! :shrug:

Awesome! loving the oak too, Mk2s have a special place in my heart :luvlove:

Awesome buddy! Welcome to hassle-free motoring for a few years, save up the pennies and then smack us all in the face with a Storm owned by Mr. Karmann or something :eek: :eek: :eek:

Ahhh... wasn't too sure as the "change of heart" title change came AFTER the engine pics :scratch:

and the change of heart is...?

mainly cos I am normally wrong :brickwall: :shrug: :ignore: :drinking:

STU, FMICs (good ones) are generally cross-flow: they have inlet on one side and outlet on the other. This promotes excellent flow rates. Standard G60 ones are a horrible design. Very small, tucked away in a corner of the engine bay and have pretty much 2 x 90deg bends in them (as the inlet and outlet are on the same sides) :eek: The amount of pressure (or head loss) generated when you ask a fluid (in this instance, air) to navigate anything more than a straight line is quite horrid (I want to say that the angle of direction change is exponential but I don't think my recent coursework findings can justify that :scratch: : I will pull out my report and let you know soon :salute: ) The fact that you are asking the air-flow to conduct heat into the IC (or the IC to absorb it, potatoes potahtoes) THEN make a 90degree turn and THEN make another one just destoys a good chunk of the useful pressurised airflow. Pipework will always have an effect, and even straight sections of pipes have a headloss across them, although these are generally tiny or at least negligible with respect to the rest of the system. hth, Jon :salute:

Coming from the man who was trying to convince me to buy ANOTHER C! :lol: :salute:

I would like to comment on the ceramic coating but I am not in a position to do so. The only applications I have heard of are on piston crowns (which obviously get hotter than manifolds) and even then I haven't had experience of them. Hence the absence of suggestions :salute:

if you ask me, the whole engine bay needs STRICT THERMO TECHNIQUE!!111one. :lol: *marks Page 2 with Thermo Sciences Flag*

afaik, this is because the wall thickness of the s/s system is a lot thinner; if you keep the heat in this reduced wall thickness, the metal is more likely to distort (damage) as the heat will be transitioning the crystalline structure of the material at an atomic level. Obviously, it might not transition by much, but insulating a piece of thin metal which is consistently as 300deg C (ish) doesn't sound great for longevity.

Belfast, there is a whole thread on F/I 16v engines with a few ballpark cost figures from some people. Also, the increase in power generated by the engine is purely down to the air pressure increase: A turbo is just a facilitator :salute:

I'm expecting a discounted delayed delivery rate! :lol:

tbh, the POR panel has more runs in than the satin black (sprayed) and I do like the dulled texture of the satin, very OEM which is nice. But that is going to the Prod and I shall be putting on the POR panels. Still on the hunt for a subframe though, let me know Toad!

Yeah, the starter kit. Still have a tiny bit of Marine Clean and Metal Ready left (prob enough to do the Cross-Member to Rad Support Brackets) but I finished the paint. That little pot went SO far. When i'm working over the summer, I'll buy a litre of all three I reckon and just used them until they run out... when i'm 74 and 3 months :lol:

I wouldn't recommend you do make your own one unless you've had previous experience, but of you do, get a GOOD engineering book on "pulse dynamics" which will show you the differences between the two manifolds (or at least the science and calculations behind it!). long runners will hurt an F/I engine as you literally want the boost getting into the chambers ASAP and not fannying around in the tracts or the plenum itself. opposite applies for an N/A engine afaik, but that's due to back-pressure and the generation of torque through the "tunnels" of air waiting to enter the chambers.

Thanks for the tips. You've changed your sig which leads to my asking of "which ECU do you have?"

turbo it Andy, Honda heads will outflow many other "performance" heads on the market and you can get huge power gains from small boost! :nuts: :clap:

Why are you planning to spray a stainless manifold? :scratch: Also, ceramic coating is nice but on a road car is there much point? It's stainless so it won't rust and unless you're getting under-bonnet temps which are really high (although I can't see how as the VR engine sats so far foward that the exhaust has tons of ventilation) i doubt it will help. I'd also be very impressed if you can notice the difference after it has been done too.