pete_griff

thank you for the sentiments gents, they are well appreciated. i had to drive the car to it's final resting place tonight - feeling properly properly miserable as i walked away from it. :( :( :( :sad: :puppydogeyes:

not wishing to insult you personally or shoot you down in flames here - but if all you want to do is lower your car then spend £150 on some lowering springs and have done with it! if all you're fussed about is how it looks then you're a total tart and you shouldn't be driving a corrado! the v1's are good, but it leaves little to the imagination - all you can adjust is the ide height and that's it. with the v3's you can set them up to cater for your own personal driving style (regardless of whether they'll be used on road or track; this is going to be different for everyone). you also have the added bonus of being able to tweek them should you decide to do a track day or something out of the ordinary. there's no point in spending money on brakes/handling things like that unless you're going to reap the rewards from them. (this is just a personal rant!) - but i can't stand these pr*cks who spend all their money on making the car look hideous and leave the running gear/engine/brakes all standard. if you want to make people look at you then walk through town shouting at people - at least that won't cost you stupid amounts of cash! sorry - but i feel very stongly about aftermarket wideboy bodykits, 19" exhausts etc etc

KW's are the nuts, end of discussion. you won't find a better setup for the corrado without spending £2.5k plus! i have a set of V3's for sale that are basically brand new (have done no more than 500 miles). was after £750 - check out my for sale thread - viewtopic.php?f=13&t=79804&start=0

you can check out my for sale thread if you're interested in my engine. viewtopic.php?f=13&t=79804&start=0 i would say as a very conservative estimate that my car is easily making 280bhp. to be honest i recon it's closer to 300 with the remap, but i haven't had it on a dyno yet to confirm this. ask CrazyDave or r4-ge who have been out in it - it's chuffing quick! and if you buy mine the whole thing can literally be done in a weekend - no messing around! hope you get something sorted anyway.

vw charge horrific amounts for this. they charged me £150 and the camber had gone to pot within 50 miles of driving away! tbh, unless you stealers are fantastic you're better off going to an independant specialist. these boys do it day-in day-out, so they're normally good at it. as an example there's a place in hereford where i take all my cars - they charge about £50 all-in and you get a nice detailed printout afterwards showing you the before and after figures.

hey pal how did it go offering up the cats into the centre tunnel with clearance? i had to get the lambda bosses on my cats moved to stop the lambdas fouling the tunnel - PITA! i feel kind of sick reading your build thread now i'm breaking mine :? :(

if you're going to spend 2k getting 30bhp, you may want to take a look at the for sale section - a little more will net you a hefty increase over 30bhp! and i sympathise with losing motivation with corrados; that's unfortunately why mine will shortly be no more... :( edit - take a look once the thread has been approved... (more fire mods! :) )

hey there pal, i don't know what the mechanic was playing at looking at that. as far as i can remember there's no need whatsoever to unbolt the hub carrier from the strut - you should be able to get plenty of movement on the strut by unbolting the balljoint at the end of the lower arm. (this can still put the geometry out - but nowehere near what unbolting the hub will do. also it's easier to re-align the 3 balljoint bolts as they leave marks on the lower arm showing exactly where they were...) anyway. if they have the correct alignment gear there, then get them to sort it for you (hopefully at a reduced cost considering how they've just thrown it back together in your pic there). if they don't have the gear on site to do geometry then walk away and get it done somewhere else. i'm sure they could make it feel much better than it is now, but to be fair looking at how badly the camber is out there, that wouldn't be difficult! - no wonder the car was pulling so badly... geometry is either wrong or right - there's no real in between ground. (it can be fettled for racing etc - but that's a wholoe other ball game). for the road there's pretty much only the one daily setup suitable unless you're running caster adjustable top mounts, rose joints etc etc (basically high performance racing gear). so, it's either wrong or it's right - make sure you take it somewhere with the right equipment and knows what they are doing. there's no other single thing (other than broken parts etc) over geometry that can make such a difference as to the way the car drives.

you know it makes sense pal - ask Chris (r4-ge) or Dave how good the engine is :norty:

hey there John, car is looking good - nice to see another C making it's way onto these pages (while the more unscrupulous amoung us (ahem! :( ) are ripping them to bits...) if you're really seriously interested in doing a transplant - keep an eye on the for sale section over the next day or two - there may be something in there shortly that you'll be interested in...

alternatively you could buy mine.... i'm asking £7000 - the brackets come with a free Corrado! (pending a decision from someone tomorrow, i may also be breaking the car. if that's the case i'll be asking £250 for my new OEM (denso marston) rad complete with fans, brackets and Gruvenparts billet rad neck...)

hey there pal - you're one of the unfortunate ones whom pin 38 doesn't work for - just the luck of the draw what software version etc you get on your ecu. what you need is a can-bus converter to supply the signal for the tacho. if you give Mark at South West In-Car Tech a ring and explain your situation he'll be able to supply & fit it for you. check out their website - http://www.southwestincartech.co.uk/index.htm it shouldn't be too expensive - i don't know an exact figure, but i would guess about £100-150 to supply and fit it. (think the units themselves cost him about £80, but not certain...)

hey there pal, what subframe have you got? just looking at your username it mentions G60's... guessing you must surely be running a VR6 subframe, and if so, i'm guessing you're running VR6 lower arms/anti-roll bar as well... (let's let the americans call them "sway bars"! :) ) the reason i ask is that the VR6 anti-roll bars are different from the G60 items and the fitment is different too. the main thing i'm getting at though is that the VR6 ARB is larger in diameter than the G60 item; hence the bushes should be different. so, make sure you get hold of some VR6 bushes. also, the anti-roll bar bushes are a right pain in the ass to fit at the best of times. you're unfortunate that the aftermarket anti-roll bars are even larger than the standard VR6 ones, so that will make an already difficult job very very annoying. the bet advice i can think of is to run a very sharp drill bit down the centre of the new bushes to try and open them out a bit if you're really struggling :shrug: hope you manage to get something sorted pal - press on and i'm sure you'll work it out :)

one thing you could do - speak to Mark at South West In-Car Tech. he will defo know which pedals do what and i can recommend him for doing the mapping on your car as well - he has got the sensitive pedal issue all sorted and will give oyu very friendly service and keep you abreast of what's going on/what he's doing while he's at it :D

i think all the Mk5 petrol models have the same pedal, uncertain if the diesel pedal is the same. you'll need to get hold of a pedal, but using them is very easy - all you have to do is plug them into the loom and then decide exactly where you want to mount it in the footwell. the Mk5 throttle body doesn't foul the bonnet - there is a surprising amount of clearance actually! don't know for certain about the bracket i'm afraid...

can't remember off the top of my head sorry - if you check out my thread (Pete Griff's 'Rado R32) there is a pic of my coilovers about halfway through somehwere - have a look at that. sorry i can't help more, but works computers are crap and i can only stay logged in for a couple of seconds...

the bearing goes underneath the top mount with the "curved" side facing upwards - if you look it should sit nicely inside the top mount...

i have that same tube! :lol: i used castrol LM grease on my bearings - also available from halfrauds - just depends on what the store has in stock i guess. keep us updated as usual pal :)

hey there pal, just read through your whole thread. it's the first time i've posted in here, so i'll be able to keep an eye on it in future now :) car is a beaut! really sorry to hear about your recent misfortune. that's just mindless vandalism and there's no point to it whatsoever, really feel for you there - i don't like to think what i would do to someone if i found them doing that to my car... hope it all works out for you soon buddy

looking really good - can't wait to see the result when you get it back! 8)

apologies i'm no massive plugs guru (hopefully someone who's a bit more clued up will answer you before long). those don't look all that bad to me though... it's relatively normal for a VR to become a bit "oil thirsty" as the miles pile on with valve-stem seals etc going brittle with age and the bores glazing up. those plugs don't look all that bad though - obviously there is some oil getting in - but it doesn't look to be a horrendous amount (again - IMO). don't want to worry you, but it's a little concerning to hear that you're getting the oil buzzer when the reading is still halfway between the min/max marks :? - do you absolutely tank it round the bends??? if you're getting the buzzer, then the oil pressure loss might be due to something else; is the engine particularly noisy at all?

if you're doing the conversion and keeping the VR flywheel/clutch/gearbox as most people seem to do, listen up - this is important. my car developed a very nasty rattle a couple of days ago that i originally pinned on the gearbox. it turns out that it was in fact THE FLYWHEEL RATTLING!!! :shock: i used the R32 bolts to hold the flywheel on - DON'T! make sure you use the VR flywheel bolts. the heads of the R32 bolts are much smaller than those of the VR bolts (see attached pic below). they not only won't hold the flywheel as securely as the VR bolts with the larger heads, but there is a fraction of a difference in the play in the holes in the flywheel as well (the R32 bolts have more play than the VR items). the fact that mine was rattling could be down to a number of issues - my flywheel is an ally item, so is obviously softer than the original VR steel jobbie, and with the smaller headed R32 bolts, they would have "squished" into it more easily. also i think that my torque wrench is now telling me lies as this is the second incident like this where things have been set to a certain torque and turned out not to be good enough. if you've got the original steel flywheel then hopefully you shouldn't suffer this; either way, i would still use the VR bolts... so from this it seems that the gearbox place is not to blame for my current woes! apologies for slandering their name so badly. (i'm actually going to ring the guy shortly and apologise to him personally.) edit - apologies for the terrible pic - going to see if i can get a better one on my phone/camera tomorrow. hopefully you should still get the idea from this though...

if you're doing the conversion and keeping the VR flywheel/clutch/gearbox as most people seem to do, listen up - this is important. my car developed a very nasty rattle a couple of days ago that i originally pinned on the gearbox. it turns out that it was in fact THE FLYWHEEL RATTLING!!! :shock: i used the R32 bolts to hold the flywheel on - DON'T! make sure you use the VR flywheel bolts. the heads of the R32 bolts are much smaller than those of the VR bolts (see attached pic below). they not only won't hold the flywheel as securely as the VR bolts with the larger heads, but there is a fraction of a difference in the play in the holes in the flywheel as well (the R32 bolts have more play than the VR items). the fact that mine was rattling could be down to a number of issues - my flywheel is an ally item, so is obviously softer than the original VR steel jobbie, and with the smaller headed R32 bolts, they would have "squished" into it more easily. also i think that my torque wrench is now telling me lies as this is the second incident like this where things have been set to a certain torque and turned out not to be good enough. if you've got the original steel flywheel then hopefully you shouldn't suffer this; either way, i would still use the VR bolts... so from this it seems that the gearbox place is not to blame for my current woes! apologies for slandering their name so badly. (i'm actually going to ring the guy shortly and apologise to him personally.) edit - apologies for the terrible pic - going to see if i can get a better one on my phone/camera tomorrow. hopefully you should still get the idea from this though...

hey Rob - can't see clearly from the pic, but as Leon says; that looks like a 12v item... Leon, apologies i haven't been on here for quite a few days now so i haven't been able to answer questions - looks like Kip_VR has been doing a pretty good job though :) VAG-COM does indeed work as it should with the conversions - i still have full use of VAG-COM. i'm getting holsd of my own lead shortly, so i'll be able to show anyone who interested in future... my sump sits more or less level with the bottom of the subframe - perfect really! you can retain all the original R32 coolant pipework etc, but IMO it's a lot easier just to keep the original VR stuff... it really is an easy conversion when it comes down to it - only difficult part is the wiring; most people seem to do as i did and chicken out and let someone else do it for them. google "south west in car tech" - top bunch down there and they'll sort you out :)

2k spent? fair play pal, that's not really all that bad considering.... if it makes you feel any better - you've got some catching up to do with me yet! :lol: