paul20v

why cant the subframe be welded then :scratch:

most of the cars i have had , use both i dont actually think theres a difference only the length of the wire.

now i am intrested ,make sure you put a pic up if all goes according to plan :)

.... :salute: ......

if they fit over standard brakes i would have thought so as the 312s sit in further and give you more calliper clearance than standard brakes , unless you mean the 17" bit if so they fit under my 16s

it would look fine if you had the carpets to , and the door cards .

if its pinking is your basic timing right , and did you torque the sensor to 15nm no more no less , it tends to be heavy loads more than hard acceleration in and around mid rev range generally , if not maybe the noise is something else what colour was the sensor as a lot of v a g engines have two , one blue plug , and one green plug.

:scratch: i take it you mean the wonderful word '''Deleterious''' means harmful or injurous to health, hence the use of it in that sentence sorry. :)

hello and welcome , hope you get your issues sorted soon lets be havin some pics then :D

and on a lighter note i also put these gauges in , i need a DDI dial kit now to match them :)

i did this ,after i read this.. viewtopic.php?f=17&t=67919&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a right by the drivers seat for ease of access and still not to in your face, not for everyone i know but nor is the burnt out car you never know

tbh i think water pump would be my first choice to fix but then obviously both would be better! i didn't use to pay as much attention as i do these days but i could have sworn my temps went up after my new rad - if i'm on a 140k water pump (given the state of some i've seen that have been replaced) then i'm tempted to think that is the cause of my high temps instead.... :scratch: :) I changed my rad at the end of last year due to a leak and didn't notice any change in temps. Providing the car has always been filled with the correct coolant then the internal channels of the rad should stay clear in good condition. Obviously if you have any blockages/restrictions or if the fins are blocked then you will see a difference with a new rad. not everyone is so fortunate and a lot of people dont realise the importance of antifreeze as a rust inhibiter , i see a lot of naff rads and cooling systems in my job :(

sorry its always the fault of the person who ran into the back of someone else , they are too close and or not paying attention i hate tail gaters its one of my major hates on the road and the most frequently seen i am affraid, the only time a rear ender is not the fault of the person doing it is, when someone has rear ended them and pushed them into the car in front . oh yeah sorry to see the car damaged DanVW bad luck hope it gets sorted soon.

have a good holiday :salute:

knock sensors are funny things and dont always show up on diagnostics if the car is pinking they are first port of call if basic timing checks out and you are not running rubbish fuel , also never over or under tighten them i think its 15nm off the top of my head but you would have to check.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=68523 read this ignorance wont be bliss any more :)

Hi When unburned fuel/air mixture beyond the boundary of the flame front is heated and pressurized by the advancing flame front for a certain length of time, detonation occurs. It is caused by an instantaneous, explosive ignition of pockets of fuel/air mixture. The cylinder pressure rises sharply beyond its design limits, and if it is allowed to persist, detonation will damage or destroy engine parts. The deleterious mechanisms range from particle wear caused by moderate knocking, to holes punched through the piston or head caused by serious knocking. Detonation can be prevented by the use of a fuel with higher octane rating, richening the fuel/air ratio, reducing peak cylinder pressure by increasing the engine revolutions (e.g., shifting to a lower gear), decreasing the manifold pressure by reducing the throttle opening, or reducing the load on the engine. Because pressure and temperature are strongly linked, knock can also be attenuated by controlling peak combustion chamber temperatures at the engineering level by compression ratio reduction, exhaust gas recirculation, appropriate calibration of the engine's ignition timing schedule, and careful design of the engine's combustion chambers and cooling system. As an aftermarket solution, a water injection system can be employed to reduce combustion chamber peak temperatures and thus suppress detonation the knock sensors retard the timing stopping this so if there not connected ,connect them and if there not making any difference renew them . hope this all helps :)

thermostat is only a posh gate for the rad so if your driving round in the winter with a 70 stat then you are going to get roughly that , summer will be different of course , try driving round without one and see how your temp gauge stays really low all the time, unless you are in traffic , i am not saying the vr is the coldest running engine i have ever owned but i would not say with the cooling system up to scratch there is an issue either , those with really hot engines ie. over 110 water temp try getting a new rad you will be astonished how unefficent an old rad gets.

Good plan, you should patient that :D sorry i had too, PATENT that :salute:

i always worry that if you fit a lower temp stat that the engines ecu tempurature sensor will be reading the water at 70 instead of 90 which is a lot in terms of ecu control, effectively the ecu will be supplying slightly more fuel to the engine umongst other things as it is having a lower reading , just my thoughts on it . i am off to :sleeping:

that sounds good, i could make one myself apart from i dont have access to a tig only a mig so i would have to hi temp paint the welds which would be ok .

i may get a slatting for asking but i like dual exit exhausts has anyone done one or got any pics of one done on there own car , or even no were i can buy one that isnt going to break the bank , i notice the fuel tank might be an issue cheers :D

hi i use led rears have done for 6 months the light out put is great and both fogs work which is nice , but there a bit sparkly in the flesh i would rather fully black tinted ones not even the top is black enough for me, the pics when i bought them looked more like the arz ones , i think i will be tinting them soon :)

whens this forum havin no 2 then bet you wish you had nt started this :D

you cant have the owners details because of the data protection act thats why the dvla wont dish it out but the police can do a veichle check thats your only route for the details as far as i can see , seems a shame if it has been dumped thou have people no respect :cuckoo: